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Old 03-22-2012, 06:02 PM #1
phantommaggot
 
 
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Finally got a body for my E2... LOL

Well
Bought a modded Super Stock body
Mini
Midget
Half Block
Diet milled
Ego feed neck
Threw my E2 on it with some other choice bits and a STO ram that I had around (getting a better ram soon)
Here is what i ended up with

Micro Super Stock
Diet front block milled by Destructive Customs.
E2 1.10 (basically free after part out)
SCM III
Taso LPC (got for free)
Ego feed neck
Empire Reg (got for free)
Evil rail and On/Off

Parts I still need / want
Lower Internals (weighing MQ2 vs Standard internals)
Good ram ( I have some rams... but I want a new .44 They are nice and smooth)
Need bolt milled for detent and O rings... (no idea why it wasn't done)
Lower feed neck -_-
Delrin Trigger




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Last edited by phantommaggot : 04-16-2012 at 08:10 PM.
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Old 03-22-2012, 06:25 PM #2
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with midget bodies you really want to use a mq valve
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Old 03-22-2012, 07:01 PM #3
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Uggh.. They cost so much
I cant just cut a spring?
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Old 03-23-2012, 12:28 AM #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phantommaggot View Post
Uggh.. They cost so much
I cant just cut a spring?

you can but you will amazed on how much force it take to cock a midget cocker
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Old 03-23-2012, 12:38 AM #5
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Why so much extra force? If I cut the spring, wouldn't the spring rate be the same? I realize your loosing mass when you mill the hammer. Cant you buy a weight that screws into the cocking rod spot? or have one made...
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Old 03-23-2012, 12:47 AM #6
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It's that the hammer doesn't have time to get to speed. The longer the travel, the longer the spring can transfer energy into the hammer.

It's like that two inch punch you see in old kung fu movies. Start hunting for an MQ, or you'll have to run a strong spring and a hell of an LPR pressure.

I am jelly though, awesome looking marker. You MIGHT be able to balance it with a drilled out valve and a really light valve spring.
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Old 03-23-2012, 02:10 AM #7
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BAM:http://www.ebay.com/itm/Planet-Eclipse-E-blade-E2-MQ2-Valve-Trigger-Frame-Karnivor-WGP-Autococker-/110846557179?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19cef8 3bfb#ht_500wt_1413

It just so happened that this was on ebay, it is a bit overpriced, but still its for sale right now, when mq2 can be a bit rare if you do buy it you could just sell the E2 or put it into another cocker lol
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Old 03-23-2012, 10:49 AM #8
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i already messaged him.. LOL, He said he wouldnt split...
either way i need to save up some loot.
I have some more stuff to put up for sale.
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Last edited by phantommaggot : 03-23-2012 at 11:08 AM.
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Old 03-23-2012, 11:20 AM #9
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you can always message rmi and try to get a mq1, they tend to be half the price of mq2

being a mini does not help also since you might have to go higher on the reg pressure.

Last edited by hmcl281 : 03-23-2012 at 12:07 PM.
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Old 03-23-2012, 01:06 PM #10
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You seem to be in touch with some sort of machinist, you should have him build you a larger low pressure chamber.
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Old 03-23-2012, 02:54 PM #11
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Complete edit to this post

Message Who? rmi?

What is the major difference between mq1 and mq2? (searching now... )

My LPC is pretty big, and I havent seen one as nice for sale anywhere..
It also has 4 large holes for air to come in instead of the 2 tiny ones the ccm banjo screw that was on the marker had.
I'm not really in with a machinist.. I just get lucky some times..
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Last edited by phantommaggot : 03-23-2012 at 04:24 PM.
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Old 03-23-2012, 07:33 PM #12
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Hey, I was reminded of something today... The extended IVG that ACID made..

I'm gonna troll for a mq for a bit, but if prices for mq2 stay outrageous and I cant find a guaranteed working blue/brass non Taiwanese valve, then I'll weigh my options.

Extended IVG, CCM hammer, maddman spring kit, maddman valve. Maybe tornado valve.
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Old 03-24-2012, 12:01 AM #13
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Whats a MQ1 worth, Someone offered me one for my omen....
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Old 03-24-2012, 01:05 AM #14
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At least an MQ1 is somewhat useful. I despise Omens, almost as much as those System X NME's.

I would do it, maybe you can get him to toss in $20 for a case of beer or something.
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Old 03-24-2012, 09:05 AM #15
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I thought the only reason mq1s were bad (the u.s. version, not the ****ty taiwan version) was that they were easy to break if you weren't careful...
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Old 03-24-2012, 01:40 PM #16
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mq1 had a tendency to stick.
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Old 03-24-2012, 07:53 PM #17
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I thought that was the silver ones from taiwan,
is there a way to get around that.. Im gonna value a blue/brass USA model at 50 shipped, there are 2 taiwan silver valves on ebay for $35 and $33 with free shipping

Also, I read that MQ valves need a little machining to fit in a superstock body.
saw a vid of a guy doing it too...

a mech setup would cost more, though it would be better IMO..

Valve - $18 evil valve, $70 tornado..
Hammer - $30 wgp, $33 ccm heavy weight
Spring Kit - $10 maddman, $4 AKA valve/hammer kit
Extended IVG - $55

average cost is something like $125
Top end is a lot more
can go cheaper by a bit too..
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Old 03-25-2012, 08:52 AM #18
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I'm the guy that machined down a valve-body to fit my superstock body..
Not ALL valvebodies that goes into a superstock needs this done.. This is ONLY "needed" if the gun just WON'T seal up (and the valve-retaining nut, just won't allign with the body no matter what you do).

This doesn't only apply to the superstocks either.. It's a general "WGP issue". Bodies were made with inconsistent tolerances(a lot of wgp bodies were out of speec). As were the MQ-valves.. And if you get the "wrong" combination of a out of spec body + a out of spec valve-body you COULD benefit from making the valve-body machined down.


The all silver ones are the "taiwanese" units, and the blue boided ones were made in the US. The only difference between the two are AGAIN tolerances.
Not much else.. They work just as good as the blue MQ1's..and MQ2's for that matter, as there is NO real difference between the MQ1 and MQ2 except "idiot"-proofing the pilothousing and slight modifications to the poppet and different materials used for the valvebody.


HMCL sent me here by the way
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Old 03-25-2012, 01:07 PM #19
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Hey,
thanks for that, and thanks for giving him the heads up HMCL
I'd only get a mq1 for the cost right now.. I cant really justify 200+ for a mq2.
Hopefully the guy with the mq1 will work with me on a decent trade for my omen, and I can get enough cash out of the deal to finish this marker off. Or at least get it shooting.

Your Karni is the #1 reason I really wanted a midget setup. I couldn't find a karni body so I settled for this.. Then 2 karni bodies popped up for sale -_-.. I feel like I got a deal though. All the milling was done, it was freshly anodized, extra clean. I got the body, a 15deg mini front block, ccm banjo, sled, pump arm, bolt, and pin for 155, and the guy threw in a belsales evo qev (non swivel, I'd like to have gotten another one.. I don't care for the swivel... )
2 things I REALLY like, and would like to do to this marker for sure.
Fierce frame modded for eblade/yakuza board and microswitch.

What I really wanted was a Karni that was midblocked (pretty much half block, just following a line on the top and coming back down.. ) and midget, but not mini so I could use the karni front block. I like the length of pull and reversed asa angle on the karni. I'll probably get this working, then buy a karni body to work on later down the road. Swap the parts over and sell the superstock. But time will tell, I may just finish up my evil M

Anyways,
Will I have to modify the spacer to use a mq1 in a midget body?
I was considering getting a SM1 IVG (I like the look.. )
http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/paintballgate_2204_225989411
Wonder if it would make up the difference...
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Parts Sale Misc Cocker, Timmy, Angel vasa, Mag parts, Old SP stuff, and more!
1 of 1 Elia full mill AKA Evil M (stacked tube viking)
Bubblegum Pink Halo/Reloader shells. Rare
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Old 03-25-2012, 02:40 PM #20
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I have a mini superstock aswell

Used the best I could find as far as pneus go. Running a Mq1 in this one aswell.


You will need to mill down the spacer in a midget cut body. I'd also reccomend using a MQ-valve in a setup like this like HMCL said. As conventional internals won't work as well.

Also, you should just sell that Evil-M thing to me!
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Old 03-25-2012, 09:45 PM #21
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Does yours have a silver mq1, or a blue/brass made in the USA setup?

I can't mill anything, I would have to hacksaw and file -_-...

For what I have in this thing, I cant complain too much about parts.
the eblade, LPC, and empire reg were baisically free. so was the on/off and rail.
If I went with "mech" internals, I'd get an extended IVG from acid.. then it would be like having any ol mini cocker.

My evil - m was/is for sale.. but non one wants it..
One guy did, was supposed to send me money.. but never did..
I have so many projects in my head, but I really want the evil M. So I'm gonna end up keeping it.
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Parts Sale Misc Cocker, Timmy, Angel vasa, Mag parts, Old SP stuff, and more!
1 of 1 Elia full mill AKA Evil M (stacked tube viking)
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Last edited by phantommaggot : 03-25-2012 at 10:32 PM.
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