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Old 03-05-2012, 01:19 PM #22
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Taking an hour or few out of your day to see whats wrong with your car will be alot more helpful than people on the internet trying to diagnose it from what you tell them.
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Old 03-05-2012, 01:24 PM #23
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Old 03-05-2012, 01:28 PM #24
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Old 03-05-2012, 01:48 PM #25
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Old 03-05-2012, 02:28 PM #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deckid1792

I would more so be asking if you have taken care of all maintenance on time and everything? You're complaining about replacing a clutch which is a normal wear and tear item for a car, which makes me think you would try to take shortcuts in car maintenance as well.

Also if you have had it for the last 50k out of 95k I would hardly be blaming it on the previous owner, but much more on you.

But besides that, like others have said there isn't any way to really cover it up, and plus doing that and then selling it back to the dealership to try to screw them over is a huge scumbag move.

Also this, I would say bring it to an actual shop and just have them look at it to see what it needs done, it could be something minor.
Previous owner provided all service records. Oil was and has been changed every 2500-3000 and was always synthetic. Mazdas are notorious for burning oil, so I've always added an extra quart towards the end of the change if necessary.

I have a few friends that own Mazda 6's and are at 130k, 120k and 100k all of them are much harder on their cars than I am yet they have never once needed to replace their clutch. I wasn't *****ing about it, just stating that it shouldn't have burned up that quick.


I've read of a few people that had a rod knock and they pulled their oil pan, replaced an out of round crank and a couple bearings and it stopped making the knock for a while. I was hoping maybe someone on here had don't setting similar that could give me more insight. Unfortunately most shops where I live are very crooked and will replace **** that they say you needed to have fixed, when you really don't. Just to schedule a check up on the engine was going to run me like 300-350$, so before I go and pay that, I figured I would see if someone on nation knew anything about it. I'm slowly seeing that it was a bad decision.


And yeah I would be ****ing over the car dealership but I really don't care. I was suppose to have a 50k mile warranty on it for anything, when I called in to check if it covere the engine, they wiggled their way out of it. There was also a lot of stuff about that car that was not mentioned before I made the purchase, and from what I've heard they do this **** quite often. So you take it how you want it
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Old 03-05-2012, 02:39 PM #27
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Previous owner provided all service records. Oil was and has been changed every 2500-3000 and was always synthetic. Mazdas are notorious for burning oil, so I've always added an extra quart towards the end of the change if necessary.

I have a few friends that own Mazda 6's and are at 130k, 120k and 100k all of them are much harder on their cars than I am yet they have never once needed to replace their clutch. I wasn't *****ing about it, just stating that it shouldn't have burned up that quick.


I've read of a few people that had a rod knock and they pulled their oil pan, replaced an out of round crank and a couple bearings and it stopped making the knock for a while. I was hoping maybe someone on here had don't setting similar that could give me more insight. Unfortunately most shops where I live are very crooked and will replace **** that they say you needed to have fixed, when you really don't. Just to schedule a check up on the engine was going to run me like 300-350$, so before I go and pay that, I figured I would see if someone on nation knew anything about it. I'm slowly seeing that it was a bad decision.


And yeah I would be ****ing over the car dealership but I really don't care. I was suppose to have a 50k mile warranty on it for anything, when I called in to check if it covere the engine, they wiggled their way out of it. There was also a lot of stuff about that car that was not mentioned before I made the purchase, and from what I've heard they do this **** quite often. So you take it how you want it
What dealership was that?

Also I cant believe you can't find a shop to look it at for under 300, thats ridiculous. Go to automotive specialists on taylor blvd, they have worked on my dads trailblazer, and replaced the engine in my truck. Very fair and honest people there.
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Old 03-05-2012, 03:19 PM #28
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Sam swope

And I live outside of Louisville about 50-60 miles. I'd rather not drive all the way in with it knocking the way it is. That will be last resort if I can't find anyone to honestly look at it out here, and at a reasonable price.
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Old 03-05-2012, 03:41 PM #29
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Sam swope

And I live outside of Louisville about 50-60 miles. I'd rather not drive all the way in with it knocking the way it is. That will be last resort if I can't find anyone to honestly look at it out here, and at a reasonable price.
Gotcha, and ya Sam Swope is about the worst from what I heard, I only know people that have delt with them with VW/Audi and everyone says they were the absolute worst with any type of customer service.
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Old 03-05-2012, 04:38 PM #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deckid1792

Gotcha, and ya Sam Swope is about the worst from what I heard, I only know people that have delt with them with VW/Audi and everyone says they were the absolute worst with any type of customer service.
For sure. They are the stereotypical dealership in Kentucky. You pull on the lot and about 10 guys in suits walk out front competing for your time, they are pushy, over priced and arrogant. I would've been much happier going with a private party but my dad insisted that I go through them for their warranty. So I paid about 3k over the value of the car, mainly for the warranty that seems to be only useful on whatever isn't wrong with my car. Since I literally just put 700$ in it for a new clutch and 550$ for new tires, I was hoping to not have to invest another large amount into it, especially because I've been wanting to pick up something different anyway. It's a great car, it drives really well in any scenario, but it tends to have a lot of the higher priced problems. Not to mention its a 4 cylinder, now that my insurance is dropped I can afford to pick up something with a little more power.
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Old 03-05-2012, 05:16 PM #31
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do they have timing chains? ive heard some ****ed up noises come from honda k series motors when the tensioner fails or the chain gets stretched.



you dont have to replace the entire engine because of rod knock but because of labor itll probably be cheaper.
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Old 03-05-2012, 07:11 PM #32
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Yeah that's what the mechanic I went to told me. But he could only find used 4 cyl engines for like 2-3k. Does that sound right?

I'll find out if it's chain or belt, I think it's a timing chain. My dad won't buy a car that has one or the other because they are expensive or hard to replace, so whichever is easier to fix is what I have.
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Old 03-05-2012, 07:13 PM #33
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Timing belt is easier to replace than a chain in most cases.
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Old 03-05-2012, 07:14 PM #34
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im not an expert on those cars so idk how easy those motors are to come by but id bet your best bet is to join a mazda forum and make a post asking to buy a motor. probaly find it a lot cheaper than that. you just need a bare motor no trans. all the sensors that someone might have taken could just be swapped over from your old motor.
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Old 03-05-2012, 07:22 PM #35
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Belt is easier and cheaper to replace but timing chains are more reliable and require less maintenance. Besides, I'm pretty sure all of the MZR engines use a timing chain.
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Old 03-05-2012, 07:30 PM #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by youngunner-2 View Post
Yeah that's what the mechanic I went to told me. But he could only find used 4 cyl engines for like 2-3k. Does that sound right?

I'll find out if it's chain or belt, I think it's a timing chain. My dad won't buy a car that has one or the other because they are expensive or hard to replace, so whichever is easier to fix is what I have.
It's a chain.
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Old 03-05-2012, 08:28 PM #37
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So a bad timing chain is known to make a knocking noise whenever it's in higher RPM's?


Oh and I forgot to add to the original post. This all started two weeks ago, and it was about 30-35 degrees outside. Since then it warmed up to like 60-65 for a couple days, and the knock went away 100% even when I would hit 4-5k Rpm's. And today it dropped back down to 25-30 ish and it's knocking again. So the heat helps the knocking in some way or another. Idk if this factor could help in figuring out the problem or not
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Old 03-06-2012, 12:39 AM #38
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Old 03-06-2012, 05:19 AM #39
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If your mechanic isn't an engine builder, then he's completely guessing at what your noise is.

If you aren't someone who deals with rebuilding engines, or constantly diagnosing internal engine damage, then you probably have absolutely no idea what you are listening to. Don't get me wrong, he could be correct, but understand that noise in engines resonate and the noises don't always react in logical ways. The first thing any tech guesses at when they hear any resemblance of a knocking noise if "rod knock". It's the get out of jail free card for not actually knowing what the hell the noise is.

Experienced techs who aren't trying to impress people will tell you they won't know anything until they start pulling it apart. That's just how engines are. The best you can do is diagnose if it's top end or bottom, and you can usually narrow it down to which specific cylinder is having issues, but I'm sorry, if your mechanic didn't take the oil pan off and inspect for damage, it's a guess.

Drain your oil, look for metal flake in the oil. Go from there.

If you are looking to rip the dealer off, try some thicker oil or a bottle of Lucas additive and go trade the thing in. The salesmen at our dealership wouldn't know engine noise from anything if they were taking a car in on trade, they don't even care. Unless your engine is making enough noise to be very obviously heard by someone who knows nothing about cars, your salesman will probably miss it all together.
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Old 03-06-2012, 10:39 AM #40
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Thanks Kenny. I'm not sure if I still have it, if you could pm it to me that would be awesome.


Quote:
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If your mechanic isn't an engine builder, then he's completely guessing at what your noise is.

If you aren't someone who deals with rebuilding engines, or constantly diagnosing internal engine damage, then you probably have absolutely no idea what you are listening to. Don't get me wrong, he could be correct, but understand that noise in engines resonate and the noises don't always react in logical ways. The first thing any tech guesses at when they hear any resemblance of a knocking noise if "rod knock". It's the get out of jail free card for not actually knowing what the hell the noise is.

Experienced techs who aren't trying to impress people will tell you they won't know anything until they start pulling it apart. That's just how engines are. The best you can do is diagnose if it's top end or bottom, and you can usually narrow it down to which specific cylinder is having issues, but I'm sorry, if your mechanic didn't take the oil pan off and inspect for damage, it's a guess.

Drain your oil, look for metal flake in the oil. Go from there.

If you are looking to rip the dealer off, try some thicker oil or a bottle of Lucas additive and go trade the thing in. The salesmen at our dealership wouldn't know engine noise from anything if they were taking a car in on trade, they don't even care. Unless your engine is making enough noise to be very obviously heard by someone who knows nothing about cars, your salesman will probably miss it all together.

Well that's the hope I was looking for! There is no metal in the oil. That was the first thing that guy checked and he said there was nothing in it.

The only thing is, with this dealership they have every car inspected before hand. The mechanic would know something was up if the engine was knocking, but if it wasn't knocking I would say he wouldn't catch it.
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Old 03-08-2012, 07:42 AM #41
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Is it a continuous knock? AKA if you stay at that RPM does it keep doing it?

How do your spark plugs look?
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Old 03-08-2012, 07:53 AM #42
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Yes of I stay at 3-3500 it keeps knocking. But in 4th-5th it goes away after 3500 and comes back around 5k
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