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Old 05-20-2012, 08:52 PM #43
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I followed this method as best as I could from memory. I got my Lurker bolt shooting 280s-90s (was in a hurry to play, so didn't keep real good track). My back cap ended up at 1.5 turns out or a little more. Input pressure at 140 psi, and 3.5 ms dwell.
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Old 05-20-2012, 10:07 PM #44
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I followed this method as best as I could from memory. I got my Lurker bolt shooting 280s-90s (was in a hurry to play, so didn't keep real good track). My back cap ended up at 1.5 turns out or a little more. Input pressure at 140 psi, and 3.5 ms dwell.
Mine is 1.5 turns, 140PSI, 4ms dwell....but I'm shooting around 240s-260s.
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Old 05-28-2012, 12:06 AM #45
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using V2 boss bolt and .684 bore, set my back cap at 1.5 turns out or a little more. Input pressure at 150-160 psi, and 3.5 ms dwell. hitting around 284 (+/- 5) pretty consistently.

but i notice the input pressure increases when the marker is shot, by the end of the game the pressure will be up around 200.

any ideas on whats up?
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Old 05-28-2012, 12:21 AM #46
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Originally Posted by zendingo View Post
using V2 boss bolt and .684 bore, set my back cap at 1.5 turns out or a little more. Input pressure at 150-160 psi, and 3.5 ms dwell. hitting around 284 (+/- 5) pretty consistently.

but i notice the input pressure increases when the marker is shot, by the end of the game the pressure will be up around 200.

any ideas on whats up?
that's reg creep, your regulator is still breaking in if you've put less than 10 cases through it. If you've used it for longer and it's still creeping pressure then add a couple drops of synthetic marker oil into the asa then dry fire it like 50 times. The oil should lube the reg piston enough to stop it from sticking.
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Old 05-28-2012, 12:44 AM #47
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@ 98pro, have you tried backing out the velocity adjustment all the way, then chrono with your operating pressure. stock settings on the board.

i did this, it shot very smooth and efficient.

my pressure is 170, velocity adjustment is all the way out. stock settings. +/-3 on the chrono. with good paint.
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Old 05-28-2012, 09:08 AM #48
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sweet, thanks for the tip. i lost track of how many cases i've put through it, probably around 20 give or take. i'll let you know how it works out; thanks again.
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Old 05-28-2012, 11:27 AM #49
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Quote:
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@ 98pro, have you tried backing out the velocity adjustment all the way, then chrono with your operating pressure. stock settings on the board.

i did this, it shot very smooth and efficient.

my pressure is 170, velocity adjustment is all the way out. stock settings. +/-3 on the chrono. with good paint.
I've done it with a stock bolt. With an aftermarket it won't work as well. This method should be more efficient than all the way out on the back cap. Most stock ones I've seen top out at like 3/4 turns.
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Old 06-03-2012, 08:12 PM #50
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here is another tuning vid to try
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Old 06-06-2012, 12:38 AM #51
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I've always done similar with my Axes, mine have always shot money.
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Old 06-06-2012, 04:54 PM #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teahouser View Post
that's reg creep, your regulator is still breaking in if you've put less than 10 cases through it. If you've used it for longer and it's still creeping pressure then add a couple drops of synthetic marker oil into the asa then dry fire it like 50 times. The oil should lube the reg piston enough to stop it from sticking.
So is it a good idea to run 10 or so cases through before even trying to tune the marker? Get it all broken in and such? I'd imagine it's also a good idea since it allows you to become more familiar with the thing in it's stock form so you can see what kind of difference it makes.
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Old 06-20-2012, 08:51 PM #53
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Ok I've noticed a lot of people go to method in the sticky which is the opposite of this method. Now yes it will improve your marker but a lot more in the efficiency department. This will create the smoothest possible shot AND increase efficiency by UP TO 2 pods on a 68/45. I've tuned my friends markers with this methods which they were hesitant to let me do at first however after I did it he was definitely surprised to find it shot better than his old luxe (3 of us on our team HAD luxes and now have axes because they shoot money one is being stubborn because his luxe has sentimental value... lol) Anyways enough chatter onto the method.

1. Turn your pressure to 180 and turn your back cap ALL the way in. Start at 150-160 with an aftermarket bolt raise slightly if needed.

2. Go to a chrono.

3.Back your back cap out by 1/8-1/4 turn and chrono 5 shots in between adjustments.

4. Repeat step 3 until your FPS stops going up (Usually around 3/4-1.5 turns out on an Axe so I'd imagine it'd be around this on a mini)

5.Now if your FPS is above 300 (it should be if you did this correctly) lower your pressure and chrono 5 shots in between each adjustment.
Being a new Axe owner, I tried this method yesterday.... and it worked great.

However, and this is what has me slightly confused:

My Axe is apparently now operating at 130 psi - according to the regulator gauge.... which seems to be FAR below what everyone else is advising.

It's a brand new gun, equipped with a Ninja Pro at 450 psi, and is otherwise completely stock (apart from the barrel, which is irrelevant). Dwell is set at 8 MS (no, I did not see the wisdom in lowering dwell as the original poster advised, since my goal is the gun being gentle on high grade paint)

Now, obviously I should just be happy.... but I need to make absolutely sure such low operating pressure does not cost me in the middle of a tournament game, so:

- What are the dangers to running the gun at such low pressure?
- What should I be looking out for (early indications)?

Needless to say, it shoots like butter, it has no problem keeping up with the 10 BPS we use in Europe, I am getting no drop off and velocity only fluctuates around 10 FPS with rental grade paint.... so everything is working great, so far.... my worry is potential problems.

Any bright people in here that can advise me in depth?
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Last edited by Nick Brockdorff : 06-20-2012 at 09:09 PM.
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Old 06-22-2012, 12:57 PM #54
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So which tuning method is now the better one? This one or the one by MaxOC (http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=2581649)?
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Old 06-22-2012, 01:14 PM #55
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Originally Posted by Nick Brockdorff View Post
Being a new Axe owner, I tried this method yesterday.... and it worked great.

However, and this is what has me slightly confused:

My Axe is apparently now operating at 130 psi - according to the regulator gauge.... which seems to be FAR below what everyone else is advising.

It's a brand new gun, equipped with a Ninja Pro at 450 psi, and is otherwise completely stock (apart from the barrel, which is irrelevant). Dwell is set at 8 MS (no, I did not see the wisdom in lowering dwell as the original poster advised, since my goal is the gun being gentle on high grade paint)

Now, obviously I should just be happy.... but I need to make absolutely sure such low operating pressure does not cost me in the middle of a tournament game, so:

- What are the dangers to running the gun at such low pressure?
- What should I be looking out for (early indications)?

Needless to say, it shoots like butter, it has no problem keeping up with the 10 BPS we use in Europe, I am getting no drop off and velocity only fluctuates around 10 FPS with rental grade paint.... so everything is working great, so far.... my worry is potential problems.

Any bright people in here that can advise me in depth?
So you're shooting the STOCK bolt at 120psi @ 8ms? That does sound a bit strange. Are you sure it's the stock bolt? If you're chronoing OK, I don't see a problem.

I've run my Axe at 120PSI @ 7ms using my Lurker bolt a while ago. It's really quiet, however it was extremely inefficient. How many pods can you shoot like this?= before you run out of air?
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Old 06-22-2012, 05:16 PM #56
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So you're shooting the STOCK bolt at 120psi @ 8ms? That does sound a bit strange. Are you sure it's the stock bolt? If you're chronoing OK, I don't see a problem.

I've run my Axe at 120PSI @ 7ms using my Lurker bolt a while ago. It's really quiet, however it was extremely inefficient. How many pods can you shoot like this?= before you run out of air?
Not 120 - it's 130... and yes, completely stock and dwell at 8ms

Probably wildly inefficient - But I only need a loader and 5 pods... it's more important to me it's gentle on paint than efficient.... have around 1000 psi left on a 68/4500 after shooting that paint (as said, Ninja Pro at 450 psi output).

And yes, I think it's really strange too, as it is so far from what everyone else is running..... which is why I posted here to ask

BTW, why do people prefer low dwell? - I would think a higher dwell, gives a more gentle shot?
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Old 06-22-2012, 05:45 PM #57
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In my experience with the Axe, lower dwell will give an even gentler shot. The main factor in gentleness is the operating pressure. 120-130 is pretty much the same - very gentle and quiet.

i'm not sure how you're running the stock bolt at that low of a pressure, but if it ain't broke, don't fix it!

Your efficiency numbers are what I expected. I think a lower dwell could probably help you gain a bit of efficiency, but then again I'm not sure if this would keep your bolt from cycling fully. Either way, if you're happy then you're happy!
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Old 06-22-2012, 07:56 PM #58
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Sometimes those gauges are off too.
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Old 06-22-2012, 09:15 PM #59
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Sometimes those gauges are off too.
i never thought about that..... is there way i can test it? my axe is pretty legit, but i'm working on a mini now.

it's got a boss bolt and ndz thread saver on it.

i notice that to get up to a decent fps the input pressure has to be at around 170-180 minimum. with my axe it's way lower (140-50ish) so i'm wondering if the the thread saver makes a difference?

i haven't had a chance to chrono it yet but i plan to use the method tomorrow to try and get it up to speed.

when i first started the dwell was at 7ms and would barely eject the ball from the barrel if at all. i increased it to 8ms and it seems ok (have to chrono tomorrow)

any ideas or advice? thanks.
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Old 06-23-2012, 01:30 AM #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zendingo View Post
i never thought about that..... is there way i can test it? my axe is pretty legit, but i'm working on a mini now.

it's got a boss bolt and ndz thread saver on it.

i notice that to get up to a decent fps the input pressure has to be at around 170-180 minimum. with my axe it's way lower (140-50ish) so i'm wondering if the the thread saver makes a difference?

i haven't had a chance to chrono it yet but i plan to use the method tomorrow to try and get it up to speed.

when i first started the dwell was at 7ms and would barely eject the ball from the barrel if at all. i increased it to 8ms and it seems ok (have to chrono tomorrow)

any ideas or advice? thanks.
Well, when the Asa is off, where does the needle sit n the gauge, 0? A little higher? A little lower? Also it can be off when it is aired up.
The axe and mini have different volumes, I would guess this has a play on something.
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Old 06-24-2012, 12:44 PM #61
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with the asa off the gauge reads at zero, the needle cuts directly through the center of 0 on the gauge. i wasn't able to get it shooting above 255 yesterday and the consistency was ****; and any input pressue below 170/180 won't push paint out the barrel.
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Old 06-24-2012, 01:32 PM #62
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I'd say your first order of business would be to test your Axe without the NDZ threadsaver on it. If everything is OK, then the threadsaver is your problem.
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Old 06-24-2012, 02:55 PM #63
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I'd say your first order of business would be to test your Axe without the NDZ threadsaver on it. If everything is OK, then the threadsaver is your problem.
sorry for any confusion, but the axe is pretty consistent. it's the mini i'm working on now but i see your point and will try it out without the thread saver.
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