Originally Posted by GrizzNazzty
I'm having a terrible time figuring out what spring, dwell and pressure combo to use on my Axe. I've been messing around with the Boss XSV bolt and springs... But I'm chopping every 15 balls or so.
Empire Axe(shockwave board)
Boss XSV bolt and springs
Deadlywind Fibur, freak inserts
Prophecy Z2 hopper
Currently using medium spring, 140psi, 6ms dwell
Started with short spring, 3ms dwell and 160 psi... Those sucked, I chopped so much paint. So now I've just been messing around trying to find the sweet spot
If you're actually chopping paint, instead of getting barrel breaks, then I would do a couple of things before I even mess with the bolt. First, make sure your eyes are working and not dirty. If they aren't you're going to chop a lot!
Make sure your detents are 100% functional and not sticking in the open position. Sometimes they can get gummed up or the small springs inside can get wonky.
Check to make sure your ball detection time(I can't remember what they call it in the manual) is at least stock, but I'd bump it up another couple of milliseconds. This will give brittle paint more time to settle in the eyes before it's fired.
Lower the stack tension on your hopper. The way to do this is in your Z2 manual somewhere. You want cold brittle paint in the ball stack to deflect up and away from bolt impacts easily. If the hopper is pushing them down hard, these paintballs can't deflect away from the bolt so they crack instead. Then when you fire the gun you have a mess.
Once you've done all that if you need to you can increase the spring tension to slow the bolt down and help prevent the cracking of balls in the stack. I would start with the medium boss spring and the fragile paint oring. Then tune the gun up and give it a whirl.
Now, if you're getting barrel breaks instead of chops, you might want to raise your dwell time so the gun can fire with much lower pressure. This will create a longer slower acceleration on the paintball, which means less stress on the shell. Therefore less chance of it blowing up in the barrel. You can also achieve lower pressure by running a shorter spring but this may also bring you back into chopping/clipping territory like above since paint brittle enough to blow up from an air blast is most likely going to cause other problems. So......again I'd run the medium spring.
In combination I would also make sure you run a pretty large overbore on your barrel so the paintballs have more room to distort and flex when fired. Obviously you'll loose efficiency and maybe a bit of accuracy with the larger bore barrel but you won't hit anything with a barrel full of paint either, so it's a worthy trade off.
Last but not least, I find in this colder weather you don't want to use the same tourney grade stuff that breaks so easy in the heat of the summer. You want to switch to some mid range paint. Tourney grade that's meant to break easy in summer......is just going to break WAY TOO easy in the cold, and may not be usable at all. On the flip side.......the mid grade that doesn't break well in the summer, should break just fine in the cold. Again, don't worry that the cheap stuff isn't as accurate, since a barrel full of broken tourney grade is going to be far less accurate.
If you don't have multiple paint options you can try to condition your paint. Leave it in a car with the heat on, so it's warm and flexible. Rotate cold pods in your pack for warm pods. If you can't do that, dump all the paint out in a box or two and let it soak up some moisture. This will make the shells a bit more flexible and forgiving.
Hope some of this helps.