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Old 02-05-2014, 04:14 AM #1
Vaipulu
 
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
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How to fix spyder re-cocking issues.

Spyders are getting old, and are starting to break down. 90% of threads in this section are "help it's not working" threads...


So here it is....

*Note: I am no master air smith, however I bought my spyder brand new in 05, and have used it since(almost 10 years) I have worn down and replaced every part in my spyder and thus have fixed just about every problem a spyder could have.


Spyder won't recock-

Refill your tank 100% sounds dumb, do it anyway. Fixed? Didn't think so, I hoped you'd get lucky...procede to next step.

Clean your marker, replace orings as needed. Lube the hell out of your marker and try again.

Inspect striker/hammer oring... It's red isn't? If not, you have the wrong one, unfortunately your going to have to order this. Part number ORG001. Before you order, slide your striker down your barrel, if it goes through, order it. If it doesn't, you have a fat striker in which case you need to research the correct oring. ( Hey I can't do it all )

Still not fixed?

If your spyder has a reg, take it off and insert tank directly into the marker. Hey! it could have been the reg. If it's still not fixed or you don't have a reg continue on....


Next step, seriously evaluate the worth of your marker and just know that you can go to walmart right now and get a new one for 60$ Or procede to the next step.


You didn't assemble your marker with your striker buffer (black rubber washer) in front of the striker did you? If there's not a spring going through that striker buffer it's in wrong. If you did don't worry I won't tell anyone... If you didn't next step.

Seriously 60$ walmart....

Listen to your spyder with air tank attached, is it leaking down the barrel? If so it's the cup seal, once again your going order that. Part number: ITPO23

At this point I hope you've spent no more than 5$

Now your going to have to start replacing parts.

Eveyone has an opinion heres mine:

Don't ever cut/stretch or twist any springs (valve or striker)

Why not? It's free right? Nope if you cut your valve spring you spyder will leak, won't recock then your stuck replacing it. Don't cut your striker spring... It's not recocking anyways it's just gonna make that worse, stretching it just sends fps unadjustably all over the place in the off chance that it does recock. Best case, your spyder bearly recocks and leaks everywhere. Worst case you have runined two parts in which case I'll see you at walmart.

Buy a spring kit, or if your cheap, order a spring from kingman: part number SPR004 from a 2012 spyder fenix with eyes...

Still not recocking? Your dedicated and I can respect that... Screw walmart, their paint is 3 years old anyway...

If you've gone through this and still having issues leave a post and I'll get back to you.
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Old 02-05-2014, 05:20 AM #2
ferret15
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I understand your frustration but this is pretty incoherent to the new guy who just wants his gun fixed. Not to mention it will pretty much be buried with n a few weeks. You just have to keep logging in and answering the same questions as we always have, people wont read (more like dig) through our old sticky and no none of the mods will update it for relevance either.

The Best "why doesn't my gun work" thread is in the sticky, but labeled as VS info. Which is actually just well put together. I assume that most don't read it because it doesn't say "mods and fixing here".

http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.p...+serie s+info

Quote:
Sparky, Rellab, 1sanity put this together.
Batteries
Batteries
This gun was made to use the Java 9.6volt battery supplied. If your finding it's dying to fast buy another one don't substitute a alkaline battery in it's place. It is suggested that you charge the gun the day before using it. After charging the battery fully for 6-8 hours, the battery will slowly drain and will hold no charge in 5-6 days. I've found that after I charge it I take the battery out of the gun till I use it.

Lubing Bolt
Lubricate the rubber o-ring on it. If you don’t lube it frequently it may cause re-cocking problems, make sure you lube it using your finger only on the o-ring. Also put a dab of oil on your finger and rub on the detents.

Lubing the Regulator
2-3 drops of paintball oil (Gold Cup) into the reg make sure it’s in the off position when you place the drops. Then screw in the tank turn on the reg and dry fire about 30 times without the barrel or hopper. You can also take the reg. apart and use Dow 33 on the six shims.
Reg. Maintenance Guide

Lubing Striker
Remove the screw under the frame towards the back. Take out the internals. Now you place about 1-2 drops of lube on the strikers o-ring and spread it around the striker. When you place everything back make sure you do it in reverse order that you removed it. If you are having problems putting the striker back just turn on your gun, turn off the eyes and fire until the striker gets through. Doing this to your marker keeps your gun running to its full potential and reduces re-cocking problems.

Re-cocking and Leak Problems may be caused by the following:
1. Your internals may not be properly lubed.
2. You have not lubed the reg.
3. Your guns pressure may be too low.
4. Your detents need lubed with oil, use minimal amount.
5. Your valve o-rings may be damaged.
6. You might have placed the valve up side down.
7. Your valve may not be screwed into place all the way. If you screw the valve screw in to much it could cause your valve to leak.
8. The Reg has not been broken in. (takes about 3 cases of paint)
9. The spring may not be broken in.
10. Bolt may be upside down.

Fixes
1. Lube internals with paintball oil (Gold Cup)
2. Lube the reg.
3. Turn the pressure up slowly until it does re-cock.
4. Check for damage on o-rings and lube them. If damaged replace and lube.
5. Open up the marker and check if the valve is properly placed.
6. Check if the screw that holds the valve in place is all the way screwed in. Don't overtighten it, this can cause a leak.
7. You can screw in the velocity spring all the way and leave it like that for a week. But many people do not recommend this.
8. Check if the bolt is not upside down.


HP vs. LP vs. CO2

HP (high pressure) or LP (low pressure) tanks, they both give different out-puts of psi, for the vs2 I would recommend you to get a HP so you can have a faster recharge rate on your gun so you shoot more consistent. But LP is also fine. Now for CO2 you can use it but it voids the warranty and expect a whole lot of o-ring changes, you can get a palmer’s reg that helps out and get your tank anti-siphoned less maintenance.

Regulator/ ASA Leaking
It's normally the oring on the on/ off knob. Go to page 22 of the VS2 manual. Turn the on/off knob as far clockwise as it will go. Take off the c- clip #ITP008 with needle nose pliers. Then turn the on/ off knob counter clockwise, it will keep spinning after you reach a certain point. Give it a slight tug and out it will come. It's probably o-ring #ORG018 but check both to verify. Take whichever one is bad off, put new one on from parts kit. Then take some dow 33 and put some on both orings. Now reassemble, chances are you turned the on/off to far and pinched the oring slightly. When I still had that reg on there I'd only turn it till it felt snug then I'd back it off 1/4 turn.
Quote:
....

and to add to your info; Its almost never the cup seal. seriously get one to have on hand but there is a greater chance the valve was damaged upon removal. Then the springs, old spryders like anything with a bronze/grey body and a crossfed tube had extremely overpowered springs. That because a problem really when they did away with the fatty striker and the simplest solution was to cut the spring. On a good spring there was plenty of coil left to get it to work better. There weren't any problems with this untill owners stored it cocked for 5 years and then sold it to a kid at a garage sale, by that time the spring was toast for normal use. There are so many other variables, our old LP mods would actually get to a point where if there wasn't paint in the breach it wouldn't re-cock. So I say take it easy, most spyder owner don't have a clue, just keep feeding the info and maybe a few will stick around.
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Last edited by ferret15 : 02-05-2014 at 05:29 AM.
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Old 02-06-2014, 10:51 PM #3
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It's same topics over and over sigh, either way, if it helps even one person, it was worth the time.
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Old 02-07-2014, 07:39 AM #4
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Its going to continue to happen, trust me. Im sure there are times when even experienced people ask a question every now and then. As dumb as it sounds, ive used nothing but spyders since i started playing paintball (about 14 years ago), i was taught by a friend a friend how to work on them, and its very simple in most cases. But i ran into a leaking issue with a pilot acs i had and could not figure it out. I eventually gave and bought a new gun, just to eventually figure out 2 years later, the leak issue was all due to the missing star shaped spacer that goes between the cup seal and spring, was missing lol. Makes ya feel real dumb, but it happens and asking questions can really help.
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Old 02-07-2014, 08:06 AM #5
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I just broke out my old *** spyder classic.. I'm pretty up to speed on my clone gti, my karni pump which pretty much is an autococker, my cocker and t8.1 but the spyder was giving me headaches trying to tech it... I'm waiting for the damn striker oring. I didn't know it wow require a specific oring until now . Thanks for the information listed, it's great to see this stuff still sort of active.
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Old 02-07-2014, 04:32 PM #6
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that would be the cup seal guide.
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Old 02-07-2014, 08:36 PM #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ferret15 View Post
that would be the cup seal guide.
Yea sorry, couldnt remember the correct term for it
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Old 04-02-2014, 03:32 PM #8
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I have to agree. I can figure about anything on my G5 and many Tippmanns out but the Spyder was only agrivating me. I am going to refer to this later next week after I get a few cheap Spyder parts from ANS. I just order a ton of replacement parts for like $19. If I don't use them all I will have them for later. Thank you for this post.

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Old 04-02-2014, 05:56 PM #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vaipulu View Post
Spyders are getting old... FIRST POST IN THREAD ...If you've gone through this and still having issues leave a post and I'll get back to you.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ferret15 View Post
I understand your frustration but this is pretty incoherent to the new guy who just wants his gun fixed. Not to mention it will pretty much be buried with n a few weeks. You just have to keep logging in and answering the same questions as we always have, people wont read (more like dig) through our old sticky and no none of the mods will update it for relevance either.

The Best "why doesn't my gun work" thread is in the sticky, but labeled as VS info. Which is actually just well put together. I assume that most don't read it because it doesn't say "mods and fixing here".....
I'd be all for creating a better "Fix It" thread that we could sticky for people to reference when they are having problems, however I do agree with ferret the guides need to be well organized and simple/easy to follow.

Also, if the stickies need to be updated I'd be more than happy to do it but need help. Unfortunately, I just don't have the time to comb through everything on my own.
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Old 04-03-2014, 05:05 AM #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shunut View Post
I'd be all for creating a better "Fix It" thread that we could sticky for people to reference when they are having problems, however I do agree with ferret the guides need to be well organized and simple/easy to follow.

Also, if the stickies need to be updated I'd be more than happy to do it but need help. Unfortunately, I just don't have the time to comb through everything on my own.
Yeah about that, John gave me the go ahead to revise the sticky and present a new thread around a year ago? I just started rolling the ideas over in my head again so I'm down to help you out if you want to delegate mostly or vice versa.

I think what I learned in morte's absence is that helping the day day question is always going to be important here. So I think we should start by adding a "help my spyder is broke______________" thread. Like I said 90% of that is written in sparky's VS info thread so it should be a good start. and Then put that in the top of the sticky in big bold letters.

Anyway I'm totally down to help so glad someone else around is willing to as well again.


edit: added for shunt as idea
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vaipulu View Post
If you've gone through this and still having issues leave a post and I'll get back to you.
This has been a good idea for a thread and has worked in the past with VS/RS help thread and 08 electra thread. It worked because they got an open sticky at the top so it was easy for new kids to just post their questions. At the time there were mad VS/RS questions then a little bit of 08+ which due to an even more drastic style change needed its own as they wouldn't post in the VS thread.

proof of concept:
http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.p...tio n+answers

http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.p...tion+answer s

http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.p...hlight=electra


Its all the same stuff, Start a post, Title it
Quote:
"Kingman spyder Q's @ A's"
.
First post reads something like this;
Quote:
"Congratulations on your new purchase and welcome to the Kingman Family, If you have a question about any spyder classic, compact, mechanical, e-frame, VS/RS/, MR1-5X 08 or newer series markers ask it here. I or some of my friends here on the nation can help you out. We have answers to different modifications and upgrades for most all spyders. And also if your haveing problems with your (Insert Series) marker ask it here as well I will do the best that i can to help you all out.

Thank you for your participation and happy ballin'

I would advise if you like the idea that whoevers thread you decided to sticky have some credibility. Mod like your self or OG that is going to be around so the new kids see its just not some dead thread.
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I'm all out of ideas again and this text is so plain.

I'm still not sure how I feel about this new look.

Last edited by ferret15 : 04-03-2014 at 05:30 AM.
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Old 04-03-2014, 06:24 AM #11
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also the "ultimate sticky"

first step is actually to trim the fat. Threads that really are no longer relevant should be the first place to start.

BST thread "closed" and actually a contradiction to the current pbn rules.

T-board thread-This thread was less relevant with the ver C came out and now there he doesn't sell the spyder board anymore. I haven't seen a t-board use in a long while either.


XFS board- You haven't been able to get a new board since like 06? I don't know anyone that has had one since I joined.


Aim thread
doesn't anyone talk to papercut anymore. He was BOS and tried to come back legit a couple times. not sure but thats the only one on the list that stayed around


reg/tank closed, and during a time when the rumor was you can only use CO2. Obviously not the case and most people are now on HPA from the start.

zip kit Sasha was trying to weasel the last known kit from red. I don't know what happened with that one of has it. Last known working kit to me was the hornet project.

contact kingman now owned by Kee...


"appraisal 1"
the old one

appraisal 2 not really sure how I feel about getting rid of it as spyders are pretty much at a low, were talking the only ones going for $150 are the NIB from the store =/ I'd axe it and bring back if its really needed.

photoshop thread this one is archived, but we always just photoshoped in actual build threads that way nobody waste there time on some kid who cant afford to get their spyder anno'd anyway.

Off topic This was always just stickied to the top while it was popular. we used to go through 1 every other week. The current OT is 2 years old, your call. get rid of this link if your not going to keep the newest one though.

pay it forward Once again old, but we tried to bring back but its just to difficult with the new b/s/t rules. I wouldn't bring it back.


blue bolt first of the non metal bolts. hasn't been sold in long time. I've seen 1.

custom service
once again another b/s/t violation due to new rules. even if we did have some thread to link to the proper b/s/t thread you would need more people around willing to provide spyder mod service that are around and reliable.

The next step is to re-write and update any of the existing threads that are "dead" due to archiving. Example the original faq is fairly good, but "upgrade" thread is outdated, many products are no longer available, many new ones have come into the market, this resource could be huge if we can stay on top of whats actually around anymore.


I'm done for now.
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something something something

I'm all out of ideas again and this text is so plain.

I'm still not sure how I feel about this new look.
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