I understand your frustration but this is pretty incoherent to the new guy who just wants his gun fixed. Not to mention it will pretty much be buried with n a few weeks. You just have to keep logging in and answering the same questions as we always have, people wont read (more like dig) through our old sticky and no none of the mods will update it for relevance either.
The Best "why doesn't my gun work" thread is in the sticky, but labeled as VS info. Which is actually just well put together. I assume that most don't read it because it doesn't say "mods and fixing here".
Sparky, Rellab, 1sanity put this together.
This gun was made to use the Java 9.6volt battery supplied. If your finding it's dying to fast buy another one don't substitute a alkaline battery in it's place. It is suggested that you charge the gun the day before using it. After charging the battery fully for 6-8 hours, the battery will slowly drain and will hold no charge in 5-6 days. I've found that after I charge it I take the battery out of the gun till I use it.
Lubricate the rubber o-ring on it. If you don’t lube it frequently it may cause re-cocking problems, make sure you lube it using your finger only on the o-ring. Also put a dab of oil on your finger and rub on the detents.
Lubing the Regulator
2-3 drops of paintball oil (Gold Cup) into the reg make sure it’s in the off position when you place the drops. Then screw in the tank turn on the reg and dry fire about 30 times without the barrel or hopper. You can also take the reg. apart and use Dow 33 on the six shims.
Reg. Maintenance Guide
Remove the screw under the frame towards the back. Take out the internals. Now you place about 1-2 drops of lube on the strikers o-ring and spread it around the striker. When you place everything back make sure you do it in reverse order that you removed it. If you are having problems putting the striker back just turn on your gun, turn off the eyes and fire until the striker gets through. Doing this to your marker keeps your gun running to its full potential and reduces re-cocking problems.
Re-cocking and Leak Problems may be caused by the following:
1. Your internals may not be properly lubed.
2. You have not lubed the reg.
3. Your guns pressure may be too low.
4. Your detents need lubed with oil, use minimal amount.
5. Your valve o-rings may be damaged.
6. You might have placed the valve up side down.
7. Your valve may not be screwed into place all the way. If you screw the valve screw in to much it could cause your valve to leak.
8. The Reg has not been broken in. (takes about 3 cases of paint)
9. The spring may not be broken in.
10. Bolt may be upside down.
1. Lube internals with paintball oil (Gold Cup)
2. Lube the reg.
3. Turn the pressure up slowly until it does re-cock.
4. Check for damage on o-rings and lube them. If damaged replace and lube.
5. Open up the marker and check if the valve is properly placed.
6. Check if the screw that holds the valve in place is all the way screwed in. Don't overtighten it, this can cause a leak.
7. You can screw in the velocity spring all the way and leave it like that for a week. But many people do not recommend this.
8. Check if the bolt is not upside down.
HP vs. LP vs. CO2
HP (high pressure) or LP (low pressure) tanks, they both give different out-puts of psi, for the vs2 I would recommend you to get a HP so you can have a faster recharge rate on your gun so you shoot more consistent. But LP is also fine. Now for CO2 you can use it but it voids the warranty and expect a whole lot of o-ring changes, you can get a palmer’s reg that helps out and get your tank anti-siphoned less maintenance.
Regulator/ ASA Leaking
It's normally the oring on the on/ off knob. Go to page 22 of the VS2 manual. Turn the on/off knob as far clockwise as it will go. Take off the c- clip #ITP008 with needle nose pliers. Then turn the on/ off knob counter clockwise, it will keep spinning after you reach a certain point. Give it a slight tug and out it will come. It's probably o-ring #ORG018 but check both to verify. Take whichever one is bad off, put new one on from parts kit. Then take some dow 33 and put some on both orings. Now reassemble, chances are you turned the on/off to far and pinched the oring slightly. When I still had that reg on there I'd only turn it till it felt snug then I'd back it off 1/4 turn.
and to add to your info; Its almost never the cup seal. seriously get one to have on hand but there is a greater chance the valve was damaged upon removal. Then the springs, old spryders like anything with a bronze/grey body and a crossfed tube had extremely overpowered springs. That because a problem really when they did away with the fatty striker and the simplest solution was to cut the spring. On a good spring there was plenty of coil left to get it to work better. There weren't any problems with this untill owners stored it cocked for 5 years and then sold it to a kid at a garage sale, by that time the spring was toast for normal use. There are so many other variables, our old LP mods would actually get to a point where if there wasn't paint in the breach it wouldn't re-cock. So I say take it easy, most spyder owner don't have a clue, just keep feeding the info and maybe a few will stick around.