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Old 06-12-2016, 01:02 PM #1
Paint504
 
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Spyder MR2 eye installation

Ok so I bought a MR2 of craigslist for 50$ the gun works great but chopped a lot of paint. I want to install anti chop eyes but can't find kits or any info on how to do it. Can someone point me in the right direction on where/how I can get the eyes and how to do it?
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Old 06-13-2016, 12:58 PM #2
Seajay
 
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
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I added eyes to mine.
You will need a different board. I have the Tadao board, and the eye wires. I picked them up from ANS.

You will need a drill and way to modify the frame and body, mill it for the wires.

I just used a hand drill to actually drill the holes for my eyes.
I can get you good pictures of where I did things later.

There is a bit of work, but I can say I love it and it works really well.
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Old 06-14-2016, 07:17 AM #3
ferret15
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The MR2 isn't one of spyders more forgiving designs, but as always the best way to prevent chops is to use a half way decent loader and paint. These days less people use CO2 but to note HPA consistency makes for a more forgiving spyder for the average user.

As for the MR2. You have that side feed bend and only 1 finger detent. So you want to reduce the distance from the loader to the feedneck. You may not get a top feed for it but if you don't have a clamping feedneck that would be high on the list. If you can't find a MR specific an used EGO feedneck can be made to fit. I suspect this wouldn't be a huge challenge for someone willing to tackle adding eyes. Either WAY #1 upgrade.

The next thing to note is that the MR2 came with a ACS (anti-chop system) bolt. These are widely regarded as not that great from spyder. Ideally if the paint isn't set in the breach that resistance should be enough to "stop" the bolt, where the hammer(attached to the bolt pin) would overcome an internal bolt spring allowing for a seamless recock and giving the paint enough time to enter the breach entirely. Of course the spring the spyder ACS bolts came with are too tough, for the most part either they broke the paint or had a failure to re-cock. Many people would pull the bolt out and and rubberband the pin forward overnight, as many nights as it took to get to work better. So i'd recommend doing that or look for a replacement regular delrin bolt.

As far as eyes go, there are no kits. its all DIY. IMO a proper running spyder runs fine without and will only make it shoot slower (so maybe shoot slower for now see what happens) Anyway, otterSCcustom a long time ago had a put a out a printable template for a round tube spyder. The only thing you need to do is drill a hole basically center with the middle of the breach and through the bottom without drilling into the bottom. You want the eyes to see the ball when it hits the bottom, so not below where they would sit. As for the sizes of holes, i'd recommend buying the eyes and measuring, maybe test on some scrap metal. As far as parts, I know the MR used the same stuff as the VS, so anything used VS/RS would fit. 08+ pilot/eletra fenix board and eyes would fit although the OLED would be hidden as the VS/RS/MR used an LED light for settings. The VS tadao board with M7 chip will have the most setting/capabilitys even though you don't need much for a spyder.
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Old 06-14-2016, 10:41 AM #4
Seajay
 
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
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Here is the template Ferret is talking about, scroll down for different ratios.
Everything should be on the OtterCustoms site but just in case...

http://www.spyder.tv/forums/showpost...1&postcount=18

The eye holes you drill for 1/8 bit. I didn't use the template but took a measurement from the detent side of the marker and compared it to where a ball sits in the breach.

My eye holes are slightly behind and toward the bottom of the ball. So the ball has to come all the way into the breach to break the beam. The eyes actually sit just out of the chamber, while the feedneck side is slightly exposed on the top it doesn't intrude into the chamber. No worry about the bolt smashing them.

You will need a clamping feedneck, I used a 3skull one on amazon. Then you will need to dremel out the clamping feedneck for the wire and eye as this side is held in place by the clamping feedneck. It should hold everything in place without placing pressure on it, it just needs to sit all together. The wires are stiff so will not move if you don't give them space to move.

When I drilled I went VERY VERY SLOWLY, using a carbide bit, and drilled straight through the hole body, one pass all the way through. This way my holes, even if not perfect, were straight to each other.

I used a a level bubble gauge to assist in keeping everything level. Have your drill on a slow and low speed. You want it smooth, or else you can misalignment the hole or make awful burs. I only needed a few swipes of my fine file to clean the edges of the eye holes.

With all that said... Ferret is correct that with a force feed hopper and working detent the MR2 doesn't need eyes, and you should have these things already to take advantage of what the MR2 can do, which is shoot fast.


Here is a good reference where I drilled. Sorry it came out a bit blurry. taken with my potato.


Last edited by Seajay : 06-14-2016 at 12:49 PM.
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Old 06-19-2016, 05:00 PM #5
Paint504
 
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Well fellas I sure do appreciate the info. This was a big help.
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Old 06-21-2016, 04:54 PM #6
Seajay
 
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
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Are you going through with it?
If you are I'll take a pic of where I had to cut the frame for the wires.
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