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Old 11-14-2012, 01:51 PM #1828
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I have too much stuff to do in my car and not enough time to do it

-need to make tweeter pods, it doesn't sound good mounted how they are right now
-need to seal doors ASAP or make door enclosures
-need to make my own crossovers for the components, as the ones ID gives you with CTX65CSs is just a second order high pass for the tweeters only, the mids just roll off at high frequency, I wanna change that and go third order on the tweeters at least, as they still get a little distortion on loud, low-mid stuff.

Edit: And I'm starting to consider 3-way again, because now I'll have even more space in the dash to stuff a 4" mid. Hmph. Time and money restrictions suck.
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Old 11-14-2012, 08:45 PM #1829
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Alright so I'm currently running 1 15" kicker l7 4 ohm wired to a 2 ohm load in a super bass pro box off of a kicker dx1000.1 amp. I have it installed in a 02 Celica but I'm about to put that up for sale to get a SUV. I originally intended to upgrade the celica to 2 of them so I went ahead and got a kicker zx2500.1 amp and 2 Stinger SPV44 batteries.

Now that I'm planning on upgrading to a SUV for more box room, can anyone tell me the differences between building the box with 2 separate vented sections, 1 combined vented air space and 2 separate air spaces that share the same port? I've been told by quite a few people 28 hz is the perfect tune for 2 of them, does anyone recommend any other tune besides that? And, if the subs are firing upwards, is it better for the vent to fire upwards, towards the back, or towards the front?

Also, with those 2 batteries I plan to do a Big 3. A local shop told me a cap would be better than a bigger Alt with an isolator, although everyone else has told me otherwise...

So, what's everyone's opinion on all of this?
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Old 11-14-2012, 08:52 PM #1830
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lol

I have a feeling you just started a ****storm.

Anyway.

My advice: 4th order bandpass if you are actually good at designing/building sub boxes. Tune to 45hz or so, port facing forward. 2-3:1 (probably closer to 2 for space reasons). Big alt and big 3 should be plenty to support that amp. Make sure to use heavy gauge wiring.

Edit: This is assuming you're going solely for SPL, though
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Old 11-14-2012, 11:15 PM #1831
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Tune to 40 for the low lowzzz
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Old 11-15-2012, 07:46 PM #1832
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Im tuning my 4th order @ 36-38.

2:1, 16-20sqin of port per cube most likely. Goal is to be efficient.
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Old 11-15-2012, 07:47 PM #1833
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I hear of lots of people tuning their 4th orders to 42-45hz, why is yours going to be so much lower?
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Old 11-15-2012, 07:57 PM #1834
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I am the king of lows. This should be known.

My old setup played down to 10hz without issues.

In all seriousness, a daily 4th order should be tuned to 46-48 with a 1:1 ratio, just saying.
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Old 11-15-2012, 10:13 PM #1835
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The last one I made plans for was 1.5:1 and tuned to 40hz.

But Matt's **** always plays low low. What was the F150 doing at 17hz? Like 149's?
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Old 11-15-2012, 10:17 PM #1836
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That is ****ing crazy.

I wonder how embarrassingly low my output really is.
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Old 11-15-2012, 10:46 PM #1837
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http://www.f150online.com/forums/4646360-post243.html

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Old 11-16-2012, 12:13 PM #1838
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Doesn't matter still weak.
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Old 11-22-2012, 11:16 PM #1839
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A couple of SA-8 V.2's for Christmas? I think so
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Old 11-23-2012, 04:13 AM #1840
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Anyone got any idea how much this would affect my tuning? The box (including the slot port) is 12" wide at bottom, and 10" wide at top. I would assume it's really negligible, but figured I'd see what you guys had to say about it.
EDIT: Figured I'd lose 24^3" of port from it being angled, so I could add a little over an inch extra on the port inside (1" increase would give me 21^3" of that back), but wasn't sure if the weird angled port would make things sound weird. Anyone know?


Also, is it a bad idea to have subs up, port back like that with a slot port, or does it really not matter?

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Old 11-23-2012, 08:29 AM #1841
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I don't think you'll notice a difference with the angle. You can always calculate and make sure everything is still proportionate.

As far as subs on top, port on the side, a few things I was reading said that in certain cars, they gained a few dB just by changing to that setup from a rear/rear setup. It should be fine as long as the port has room to breathe.
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Old 11-24-2012, 11:30 PM #1842
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Anyone here have experience with Dayton, Selenium, or Peerless speakers?
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Old 11-24-2012, 11:47 PM #1843
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I have some Peerless HDS 6.5's. They're pretty nice.
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Old 11-24-2012, 11:55 PM #1844
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I'm saying **** it and putting 8s in my doors. Can't decide what 8s I wanna go with, though.

The Selenium 8w4p almost looks like it could work in a 2-way with a good tweeter (Dayton RS28, maybe) , but I could probably go 3-way if I really wanted to.

Note: I'll either be going active, or building my own passive crossovers for this. If 3-way, it'll be both.
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Old 11-25-2012, 12:41 AM #1845
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I wish I had room to put a 4" mid in my doors.
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Old 11-25-2012, 01:30 AM #1846
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I've got room for days. There's only one switch in my door plus the door handle. I have like 6-7" worth of mounting depth comfortably. If I go 3-way, I think it might be with a 3.5" Dayton in each side of the dash for mids.
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Old 11-25-2012, 02:24 AM #1847
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What the hell kind of doors do you have that have 7" of mounting depth?
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Old 11-25-2012, 10:35 AM #1848
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What the hell kind of doors do you have that have 7" of mounting depth?
Well there's 5+" in the door alone to play with, and the extra room in the door panel allows you to use massive adapter rings with no issues at all.

Here's the stock adapter rings/enclosures:



If it's not clear from that photo, they stick out like 1.5", maybe a little more. And there's even more room to work with it as you need to. I should only need to make up some adapters and 8s should drop right in so long as they aren't super deep. Hell, my somewhat-beefy ID mids fit in the stock enclosures with almost half an inch to spare, depth-wise. The Seleniums I'm looking at are less than an inch deeper anyways, so I'm not going to be pushing the limit either way.
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