Find fields & stores near you!
Find fields and stores
Zipcode
PbNation News
PbNation News
Community Focus
Community Focus

Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 01-06-2012, 10:18 PM #1
Taxarod
 
 
Taxarod's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Panama
Taxarod has achieved Level 2 in PbNation Pursuit
Lightbulb Polished Mirror Finish and Annodizing Removal Guide (Image Heavy)

Polishing and Anodizing Removal Guide

Hello,

Here I'll try to show you how to polish aluminum parts mainly, but we will go through the process of stripping the anodizing first, because most of the parts in paintball are anodized.

Through all the guide Iíve choose to use an ol' ION feed neck, because it has many edges, rounded areas, it is a overall good example to show you how its done.

-Removing Anodizing-

Things Needed:

1x plastic container enough to hold the part or parts. FREE
2x Oven Cleaner Spray (Easy Off, etc. Any cleaning spray with LYE) 2.99 a can.




Note: You want to look for a cleaner that has LYE on it. Now you may wonder, why not just go buy LYE and dilute it? Because it is very dangerous, Lye is very corrosive in its pure state, this cans contain a diluted amount of lye already and are ready to use.

-Process

1. Fill up the chosen container to a level that all parts your removing the anno' from are fully submerged into the oven cleaner.


Note: You will see this foam forming as you fill the container, If your not in a hurry, let this foam sit when the container its fully full, upper layers will turn more into a soapy foam, when that happens, fill it up some more, this will make the foam more dense and will act quicker on the anodizing.

2. Place the part inside the container, make sure the part is completely submerged in the solution. Let it rest until the anodizing layer starts to strip out.

Note: Once the part is inside its hard to see if the anno' is getting stripped, depending on the brand of oven cleaner you bought the time will vary, mine takes around 35-40 minutes to completely soften the anodizing layer so itís easy to remove with a brush. * When you take it out you may see that the anodizing is still there, a good signal that is done, its if the anodizing starts to fade, then you can take it out and finish it with an old toothbrush.
If there were little dots or sports with some anodizing still on it, you can dip it in for a couple more minutes.

3. Once this is done, you want to take it out and place the part inside a bowl of water using a pair of needle nose pliers, *DO not handle lye or anything that contains this with your hands, it will irritate them.
Let the part sit there for 30 seconds or so, and then take it out, rinse it with water, finish off the remaining anodizing with a small brush. Dry it with some paper towel.



DONE, you should end up with something like this.


--------------------------------------------------------------------
At this point you can do 2 things, spray paint it and then put some lacquer over it if you can't get it anodized. But this guide is for polishing so thatís where we are going to.

--------------------------------------------------------------------

Polishing to a Mirror Finish

Things Needed:

5x Sand Paper (280,360,400, 500,600 Grid) $3.00 Total
1x Polishing Compound $5.00
1x Wax applying Pad (Polishing Rag or equivalent will work) $2.00

Note:Sand paper grid doesn't have to be exactly what I stated, the idea when sanding to polish is to start out with low grid, to remove some of the deep scratches on the aluminum, then gradually go to a higher grid, to remove the scratches left from the last one until you get a very fine sort of brushed finish.

-Process

1. Start out by sanding with a low grid sand paper, in this case I will use 280 grid to remove some of the deep scratches in the feed neck.


You can see most of the scratches are now gone.

2. Sand gradually with higher grid size sand paper, until you get a very fine finish.





Note: When you get to the finest grid you have, go ahead and wet sand it. I didn't take any pictures of this but you want to sand it well under the sink with water falling into both the part and sand paper.

3. When youíre done sanding, you should end up with something like this.



4. Now to start with the polishing compound, grab your pad and dip one side of it inside the polishing compound and set it on a flat surface, Iím using my desk.






5. Start by giving the part a layer of polish compound, once its covered, make some pressure against the pad and scrub the part firmly against it. Do this all around.


6. Repeat this same process and give the part at least 2 or 3 layers. Once itís done, it should look like this.



And there you have it. You now have done your very own polished parts.



Hope you like this guide, any questions, leave a comment bellow and I'll get back to you as soon as possible.

-Galery-

-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Added on 12/4/12 @ 6:26 PM - Axe Detent Covers.

Original


Right after they are taken out of the lye bath.


One to the left was sanded with around 600 grid (just to remove the dust finish since it was dust anno) right one its comparison to one just out of the lye.



And this is after mirror'd


-------------------------------------------------------------------------
__________________
ION XE Part Out


-R.I.P Borg

Last edited by Taxarod : 04-12-2012 at 06:27 PM.
Taxarod is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Sponsored Links Remove Advertisement
Advertisement
Old 01-06-2012, 10:22 PM #2
what the heck?
Me Llamo Brad
 
what the heck?'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Nor Cal (530)
what the heck? is Legendary
Nice write up man! I want to do this but don't want to **** up, haha.
__________________
what the heck? is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2012, 10:23 PM #3
Taxarod
 
 
Taxarod's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Panama
Taxarod has achieved Level 2 in PbNation Pursuit
Quote:
Originally Posted by what the heck? View Post
Nice write up man! I want to do this but don't want to **** up, haha.
Practice makes perfect
__________________
ION XE Part Out


-R.I.P Borg
Taxarod is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2012, 10:25 PM #4
what the heck?
Me Llamo Brad
 
what the heck?'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Nor Cal (530)
what the heck? is Legendary
I have some automotive detailing experience, but that's clear coat, not solid aluminum lol.
__________________
what the heck? is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2012, 09:38 AM #5
xsvdynastypballa
 
 
xsvdynastypballa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
you guys should just buy buffers and quit ***** footing around. Looks nice but how long did it take you?

Last edited by xsvdynastypballa : 01-07-2012 at 10:36 AM.
xsvdynastypballa is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2012, 10:40 AM #6
Taxarod
 
 
Taxarod's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Panama
Taxarod has achieved Level 2 in PbNation Pursuit
When you learn how to do the polishing it takes you 10 minutes to get a part really shinny, a good buffing wheel is not cheap.
__________________
ION XE Part Out


-R.I.P Borg
Taxarod is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-16-2012, 11:46 AM #7
BARB3R
 
 
BARB3R's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: McAllen, Texas
Use heavy duty drain cleaner, it works sooooo much better than oven cleaner (way less messy also)
BARB3R is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-22-2012, 07:43 AM #8
jmbishop
I Own You
 
jmbishop's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Quote:
Originally Posted by what the heck? View Post
I have some automotive detailing experience, but that's clear coat, not solid aluminum lol.
You know absolutely nothing about it.
__________________
feedback
Watch my shower cam!
Fact: a frogs ears are in its hind legs...
Experiments proved this fact, a clicker was put behind the frog, it jumped 10 feet. A hind leg was amputated, and then clicking repeated, The frog only jumped 5 feet. The second leg was removed, they clicked again, the frog didn't move proving its ears are in its legs.
jmbishop is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-22-2012, 06:38 PM #9
-=TigerPB=-
 
 
-=TigerPB=-'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Laramie, WY
 has been a member for 10 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmbishop View Post
You know absolutely nothing about it.
...he was saying he knew absolutely nothing about it in the first place. He said he had some experience, but he was worried he'd mess something up because his experience was with automotive stuff and not with aluminum.
__________________
Go Pokes!
-=TigerPB=- is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-23-2012, 09:21 AM #10
rjones1213
 
 
rjones1213's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Saginaw, MI
rjones1213 is an NCPA player
rjones1213 plays in the APPA D5 division
rjones1213 has achieved Level 4 in PbNation Pursuit
I would suggest going higher in your grit when sanding the part. Most people who do mirror polishing will go 222/400/600/800/1000/2000 or something similar. Then polish with a buffing wheel of some kind, even one on a dremel can do a pretty good job.

I prefer to use diluted lye in water to strip parts (takes about 5-10 minutes). If the part is already gloss and has no marks you can start with a high grit (800+ wet sanding) then move up to 1k/1200/2k then polish with buffing wheel and polishing compound. Also using a very fine polish (I like mother's mag polish for aluminum) on a microfiber cloth by hand for a final finish.
__________________
Old Feedback
I Do Cool Stuff

SVSU Paintball #14
rjones1213 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-23-2012, 11:41 AM #11
jmbishop
I Own You
 
jmbishop's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Quote:
Originally Posted by -=TigerPB=- View Post
...he was saying he knew absolutely nothing about it in the first place. He said he had some experience, but he was worried he'd mess something up because his experience was with automotive stuff and not with aluminum.
You didn't read the same thing I did. He said "....that's clear coat, not solid aluminum lol." Which in either the paintball world or the automotive world is still 100% wrong.
__________________
feedback
Watch my shower cam!
Fact: a frogs ears are in its hind legs...
Experiments proved this fact, a clicker was put behind the frog, it jumped 10 feet. A hind leg was amputated, and then clicking repeated, The frog only jumped 5 feet. The second leg was removed, they clicked again, the frog didn't move proving its ears are in its legs.
jmbishop is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-23-2012, 10:21 PM #12
-=TigerPB=-
 
 
-=TigerPB=-'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Laramie, WY
 has been a member for 10 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmbishop View Post
You didn't read the same thing I did. He said "....that's clear coat, not solid aluminum lol." Which in either the paintball world or the automotive world is still 100% wrong.
Quote:
Originally Posted by what the heck?
Nice write up man! I want to do this but don't want to **** up, haha. I have some automotive detailing experience, but that experience is with clear coat, not solid aluminum lol.
Added something so you could figure it out.
__________________
Go Pokes!
-=TigerPB=- is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-23-2012, 10:35 PM #13
jmbishop
I Own You
 
jmbishop's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Yeah, that makes much more sense, stupid me for not being able to comprehend the way he typed it.
__________________
feedback
Watch my shower cam!
Fact: a frogs ears are in its hind legs...
Experiments proved this fact, a clicker was put behind the frog, it jumped 10 feet. A hind leg was amputated, and then clicking repeated, The frog only jumped 5 feet. The second leg was removed, they clicked again, the frog didn't move proving its ears are in its legs.
jmbishop is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-2012, 12:25 AM #14
WormJones
SommeBoddyy's Clossserr..
 
WormJones's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Bay Area CA
WormJones owns a Planet Eclipse Geo
WormJones owns a Planet Eclipse Geo
WormJones supports Team VICIOUS
WormJones posts videos on PbNation
If you use a buffer and some mother's it will come out more like this, also this was done with NO sandpaper, just lye, rouge, and mother's



WormJones is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-28-2012, 05:00 PM #15
ElPanda
CAD/CAM
 
ElPanda's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Parts Unknown
Quote:
Originally Posted by xsvdynastypballa View Post
you guys should just buy buffers and quit ***** footing around. Looks nice but how long did it take you?
.
bench grinder with a buffing wheel

screw all that manual polishing
__________________

ABET Accredited Level II Machinist - CNC programmer - Mech. Engineering Technologist
Polarst*r Engineering and Machine

ElPanda is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-28-2012, 05:49 PM #16
xsvdynastypballa
 
 
xsvdynastypballa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Haha thats funny you should say that. Thats exactly what im using now. Stupid harborfreight buffer gave out.

really the only diff is the longer arms that a buffer has.
xsvdynastypballa is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-28-2012, 06:22 PM #17
svmeyer
Hillbilly DeLUXE
 
svmeyer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: *PA*middleofnowhere*PA*
Annual Supporting Member
svmeyer plays in the PSP
svmeyer supports our troops
svmeyer plays in the APPA D4 division
svmeyer is one of the top 100 posters on PbNation
svmeyer supports DLX Technology
svmeyer supports Empire
Quote:
Originally Posted by WormJones
If you use a buffer and some mother's it will come out more like this, also this was done with NO sandpaper, just lye, rouge, and mother's
Any recommendations on a certain type of lye and rouge? Is it better to get the dry lye that you have to mix or something already in a liquid form?

Any certain brands? I tried the oven cleaner but that only removed about half of the coating
__________________

Slime Green with Camo accent Luxe 2.0 F/S/T

WTB Luxe Parts!!
I'm looking for field gear: pods, tanks, bunkers, everything!!!
PMGWC / / Luxe Mob / /BST Elite/ /Shocker Owners/ /Ego Mafia/ /AGG Mafia/ /KGB MOB
svmeyer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-29-2012, 05:37 PM #18
Dan95-5.0
 
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, CAN
Dan95-5.0 owns a Planet Eclipse Ego
i assume those parts were not dust annod?

I have no problem polishing, its the lye that scares me when i do my ego.
Dan95-5.0 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-29-2012, 06:11 PM #19
xsvdynastypballa
 
 
xsvdynastypballa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Please keep in mind that bare aluminum is much softer than anodized aluminum.

Anodizing is harder than steal, while aluminum is well not. haha
xsvdynastypballa is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2012, 08:57 PM #20
shw33l
Grapist
 
shw33l's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: ocala, fl
shw33l plays in the PSP
shw33l plays in the APPA D5 division
shw33l supports DLX Technology
im thinking about doing it, how long did it take just for the feedneck?
shw33l is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2012, 09:40 PM #21
Rob66
youtube.com/shootinstuff
 
Rob66's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: NorCal
Rob66 posts videos on PbNation
Rob66 is one of the top 1000 posters on PbNation
Rob66 is Legendary
Rob66 supports Empire
looks nice
Rob66 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools

Posting Rules
Forum Jump