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Old 12-19-2011, 06:12 PM #1
Ravenstylea2
 
 
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Upgrading to a NT11 from an Axe

Hello everyone I am serious about buying an NT11 but was wondering if there is anything I should look out for before buying it. Like parts that would wear out first such as a specific oring that may become worn during light use of the marker. Is there an achilles heel on this thing or what?
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Old 12-19-2011, 09:42 PM #2
youknowitall
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Chops paint like no tomorrow. If you ever want to play again don't get an NT.
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Old 12-19-2011, 10:32 PM #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by youknowitall View Post
Chops paint like no tomorrow. If you ever want to play again don't get an NT.
Go with the DM line if you want Dye.
yeah because dye would produce a new line of guns that just do nothing but chop paint

the first couple hundred nt10s that came out needed some tweeks..which dye realized and made changes (newer eyepipe, different spool spring, notched front spool bumper, and did something different to the airport)..if you want to get an nt11 you will not regret your decision one bit--dye updated the spool and spacer body in the nt11 to reduce the amount of bumpers that the nt10 was known to go through

I personally got an nt10 two weeks ago and it is by far my most favorite gun that I have ever owned..and I would consider myself a gun whore by owning over 30+ guns..has a different sound than most spools (instead of a puff sounds its a nice crisp sound) and is buttery smooth..

haha the kid that posted above me has most definitely never owned or shot an nt because I have never seen a more ignorant comment about that line of guns..yeah some people had trouble with chopping but that was because they has not released the updates for the gun yet and most people just honestly dont know how to tune the gun..if they want to shoot slower than they are chronoed, people instantly grab an allen key and start cranking the hpr down..nope you cant do that with an nt..set the hpr to 130psi (nt10..idk what nt11 is..maybe 110?) and a dwell of 6 or 7 depending on the circumstances..dont touch the hpr after that..if you want to shoot slower than you are chronoing at then put in the spacer body..if you want to shoot hotter then you can turn up the hpr a tad bit..just never lower

99% of the time, when people are having trouble with their gun, it is definitely a user problem..not a manufacturers
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Old 12-19-2011, 10:59 PM #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by russmoo44 View Post
99% of the time, when people are having trouble with their gun, it is definitely a user problem..not a manufacturers
word.

my NT 10.5 is literally an 11 minus the new milling haha...I love it and it's as close to my Clone VX as it gets. mines runs 105 psi with little to no kick and I get 2 breaks AT MOST during the WHOLE day....

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Old 12-19-2011, 11:45 PM #5
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Well in his defense, I have seen 3 nt 11 between me and my teammates and they were very paint picky. Everyone in here knows the nt chops rather frequently. Yes I have played with mine on days where it did not break a single ball, then I have played days where it wouldn't put a ball down the barrel. I went to a dm12 and kept the feel of the nt but with a less pronouncing shot ( I guess is how I would describe it). Honestly the nt is absolute fantastic marker if it works for you. However it did not for me and two others. See how others at your field like them
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Old 12-20-2011, 12:49 AM #6
MorpheusX
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They are paint picky but there are a few things you can do to help. Most of the guys run an 013 on the bolt tip and that usually helps. I didn't have a problem all year except for at cup when we were shooting that super brittle gi stuff. It was breaking in everything except for clones, luxes dms and the eclipse line. Then again dye did put a dm9 eye pipe in my gun when it went in for service, so I believe that was the issue. I tried to shoot dxs gold through mine in the Canadian cold outdoors and well....it didn't work out.
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Old 12-20-2011, 06:50 AM #7
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Kid? Thanks I love compliments now and then.Ignorant?perhaps,this subject not so much.
I can assure you the paint chopping I experienced in a brand new tech'd from Dye NT11 was not user error.This comment gets very tiring.The NT line has and still has issues with paint.

Ravenstylea2: Do some search on Dye NT breaking/chopping paint.I'm not the only one who has said anything about the problem.Wish I had before I purchased mine. I've said it from the day I got rid of the NT11.If you want the best and greatest feeling gun in your hand NT!! all the way hands down.Nothing fits better and if you want a slice and dice soup maker NT again has it in the bag. Until the NT can shoot in variable climate and isn't as picky on paint go another route.

Quote:
Originally Posted by russmoo44 View Post
yeah because dye would produce a new line of guns that just do nothing but chop paint

the first couple hundred nt10s that came out needed some tweeks..which dye realized and made changes (newer eyepipe, different spool spring, notched front spool bumper, and did something different to the airport)..if you want to get an nt11 you will not regret your decision one bit--dye updated the spool and spacer body in the nt11 to reduce the amount of bumpers that the nt10 was known to go through

I personally got an nt10 two weeks ago and it is by far my most favorite gun that I have ever owned..and I would consider myself a gun whore by owning over 30+ guns..has a different sound than most spools (instead of a puff sounds its a nice crisp sound) and is buttery smooth..

haha the kid that posted above me has most definitely never owned or shot an nt because I have never seen a more ignorant comment about that line of guns..yeah some people had trouble with chopping but that was because they has not released the updates for the gun yet and most people just honestly dont know how to tune the gun..if they want to shoot slower than they are chronoed, people instantly grab an allen key and start cranking the hpr down..nope you cant do that with an nt..set the hpr to 130psi (nt10..idk what nt11 is..maybe 110?) and a dwell of 6 or 7 depending on the circumstances..dont touch the hpr after that..if you want to shoot slower than you are chronoing at then put in the spacer body..if you want to shoot hotter then you can turn up the hpr a tad bit..just never lower

99% of the time, when people are having trouble with their gun, it is definitely a user problem..not a manufacturers

Last edited by youknowitall : 12-20-2011 at 06:55 AM.
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Old 12-20-2011, 10:32 AM #8
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I shoot mine from April/May until October November outside in Canada. We have quite the varied temperature, it just noes not like really brittle paint in the colder months thats all. I have tuned mine with an adjustable manifold in it and it is pretty gentle in terms of the bolt hitting the ball but I think the main culprit is the flow of air and lack of dispersion since the bolt is completely open face.
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Old 12-20-2011, 03:01 PM #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MorpheusX
I shoot mine from April/May until October November outside in Canada. We have quite the varied temperature, it just noes not like really brittle paint in the colder months thats all. I have tuned mine with an adjustable manifold in it and it is pretty gentle in terms of the bolt hitting the ball but I think the main culprit is the flow of air and lack of dispersion since the bolt is completely open face.
That was the issue with the Geo the first time around. Bolt was cycling too fast, and had a complete open face. Then they introduce the Venturi faced bolt, I wonder if Dye has ever considered making a Venturi faced soft bolt tip? And maybe or introduce a spring assist of some sort, this is just a theory.

I've been actually working on a custom spring assist, and a Venturi faced soft tip. I've only had issues with ultra-brittle paint in the cold. Morning of WCPPL, break after break after break, but as we warmed up the paint in the sun, problem was solved between all NT's on my team.
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Old 12-21-2011, 09:13 AM #10
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The drag the bolt has to overcome for the initial motion is too high, I dont see how to make the initial motion slower without having all kinds of problems.

I guess that the key to make the initial contact with the ball slower/smoother is to find how make the bolt initiate his motion with very little effort(no drag to overcome)

Last edited by PedroBR : 12-21-2011 at 09:18 AM.
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Old 12-21-2011, 09:16 AM #11
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Originally Posted by MorpheusX View Post
I shoot mine from April/May until October November outside in Canada. We have quite the varied temperature, it just noes not like really brittle paint in the colder months thats all. I have tuned mine with an adjustable manifold in it and it is pretty gentle in terms of the bolt hitting the ball but I think the main culprit is the flow of air and lack of dispersion since the bolt is completely open face.
Hey buddy!

to add on the lack of dispersion discussion. I found out that my nt shoots more accurate if I use a smaller oring on the bolt tip. I did not have any 013, so I´m using a 012 and it just shoot lasers.

With the smaller oring the bolt dont seal with the eyepipe and there´s room for a bit of blowback and gas dispersion. The marker also got smoother.

I had to raise the hpr a bit to compensate a bit loss of velocity.
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Old 12-21-2011, 11:40 AM #12
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i personally think the 2010 nt is the best gun made
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Old 12-21-2011, 11:08 PM #13
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Originally Posted by iplaysnake24 View Post
i personally think the 2010 nt is the best gun made
nt10 is an awesome gun once all updates are done and it is tuned correctly.

the nt reminds me of my M3 when she is right i dont want to shoot or drive anything else but when they arent right life sucks
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Old 12-21-2011, 11:12 PM #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blusylver View Post
the nt reminds me of my M3 when she is right i dont want to shoot or drive anything else but when they arent right life sucks
Hey if you really want my purp clone I'll trade for your M3, you add

my NT 10.5 shoots titties and gets 2 breaks max on a somewhat cold day
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Old 12-22-2011, 07:20 AM #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SmartWorrPartsPlayer View Post
That was the issue with the Geo the first time around. Bolt was cycling too fast, and had a complete open face. Then they introduce the Venturi faced bolt, I wonder if Dye has ever considered making a Venturi faced soft bolt tip? And maybe or introduce a spring assist of some sort, this is just a theory.

The biggest difference Planet Eclipse made to the new version bolt was it was shorter and allowed the ball to fall into the breach closer the the face of the bolt. That reduced distance from the bolt face to the ball provided less of an impact force on the ball when the bolt starts pushing it into the barrel.

DYE's bolt tip is already a soft face.


Overall, NTs shoot pretty nice and IS the smallest/tightest high end gun on the market, but it does break more balls than Geos.
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Old 12-22-2011, 05:47 PM #16
MorpheusX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PedroBR View Post
Hey buddy!

to add on the lack of dispersion discussion. I found out that my nt shoots more accurate if I use a smaller oring on the bolt tip. I did not have any 013, so I´m using a 012 and it just shoot lasers.

With the smaller oring the bolt dont seal with the eyepipe and there´s room for a bit of blowback and gas dispersion. The marker also got smoother.

I had to raise the hpr a bit to compensate a bit loss of velocity.
I am going to try this out, thank you once again!
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Old 12-22-2011, 07:31 PM #17
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with my nt11, (and i have heard other people say the same for their 10's) you need to almost overlube the bolt. i was having some issues with some really brittle paint, and i lubed the bolt like it was paint and it made it a lot better. i havent changed the 014 oring for a 013 on the tip of the bolt yet but i plan on doing it next time i have to take the bolt out if i still have any problems.
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Old 12-22-2011, 11:19 PM #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ravenstylea2 View Post
Hello everyone I am serious about buying an NT11 but was wondering if there is anything I should look out for before buying it. Like parts that would wear out first such as a specific oring that may become worn during light use of the marker. Is there an achilles heel on this thing or what?
I have an NT11, and I love the marker. However, I wouldn't recommend it unless you're willing to spend an awful lot of time learning about all the quirks of the marker. When the markers have issues, the problems can usually be solved by a user. However, the fixes are so odd compared to other markers that you really need to know where to look. I'd suggest you go with a DM. The NTs shoot better than anything else imho but only when they're setup correctly. It's a high knowledge marker.
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Old 12-23-2011, 12:15 AM #19
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It's a high knowledge marker.
Thanks for calling me smart

I feel like a genius!



.....we'll see how smart I really am after I get my final grades back
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