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Old 03-15-2015, 10:30 PM #1
hiphophippo8
 
 
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kp leaking down barrel

Hello everyone I asked in my last thread but Im not sure if anyone will see this question. I anoed my kp and while assembling it back up I realized I lost the valve retaining screw. I took one out of my spyder extra and electra they are the same screw and they both thread in fine. I have a small leak down the barrel now and I was wondering if the screw from the spyder is the culprit. The leak wasn't terrible I was able to play multiple games on a 20oz co2 tank my air tank is getting rehydroed. I just wanted to ask if this could be the problem before I spend 10 dollars on a single screw. Thanks in advance for any help I played today and it wasn't horrible but next weekend and the week after I have some scrimmages and I want it to be 100% operational when Im going up against a bunch of electros.
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Old 03-15-2015, 11:19 PM #2
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No. Not by just the retaining screw. You may have a bad valve o-ring and/or bad cupseal. If it is the valve o-ring, it would be the one on the front part of the valve.

Most of the time, it is the cupseal that is the issue. Although rare, I have heard of a valve retaining screw being cranked down too tight and creating a leak that way - basically making the lower tube at the screw hole location non-circular and the deformed tube not being sealed off by the o-rings on the valve. But, like I said, usually it is the cupseal followed by that front o-ring on the valve.
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Old 03-16-2015, 12:53 AM #3
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ok thanks I changed the orings on the valve a few different times since they were old orings. It leaked with every combination I tried, if its a bad cup seal do I just buy a new one or do I need a new valve to?
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Old 03-16-2015, 02:09 AM #4
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As long as the face of the valve isn't damaged (scratched up or gouged), then all you would need is a new cupseal. Although it is possible (but VERY difficult) to fix the surface on a bad cupseal, it is easier to just get a new one. Just be sure you get the correct one for your marker.
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Old 03-16-2015, 03:13 PM #5
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ok thanks the valve looks fine but I do remember a few days ago when I was trying to fix the problem the cup seal wasnt screwed on tight to the rod it goes on. I screwed it on all the way but maybe when it wasnt on all the way it got messed up thanks again I will be ordering a new cup seal and Ill let everyone knows if it works.
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Old 03-16-2015, 03:53 PM #6
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Hope that works out for you. Good luck .
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Old 03-16-2015, 08:02 PM #7
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Make sure the valve is facing the right direction, too. I had the same problem with my KP and it's cause I put the valve in backwards.
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Old 03-17-2015, 01:17 PM #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hiphophippo8 View Post
ok thanks the valve looks fine but I do remember a few days ago when I was trying to fix the problem the cup seal wasnt screwed on tight to the rod it goes on. I screwed it on all the way but maybe when it wasnt on all the way it got messed up thanks again I will be ordering a new cup seal and Ill let everyone knows if it works.
Hello,

I believe you emailed us about a guide on the KP. Unfortunately the email landed in spam and I only spotted it today.

If you already changed the orings and added a screw, the next step would be a new cup seal. Be sure to add red locktite to the threads on the stem. This will keep the cup seal and stem together when you shoot the marker.

-Ed
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Old 03-17-2015, 09:49 PM #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AzodinTech View Post
Hello,

I believe you emailed us about a guide on the KP. Unfortunately the email landed in spam and I only spotted it today.

If you already changed the orings and added a screw, the next step would be a new cup seal. Be sure to add red locktite to the threads on the stem. This will keep the cup seal and stem together when you shoot the marker.

-Ed
Ok thanks that might be what happened to the old one it was only halfway threaded on. I should be putting the valve in the right way I watched a couple videos to make sure and if I remember it was the small hole towards the back and larger hole towards the front I think?
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Old 03-17-2015, 10:01 PM #10
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Ok so I just ordered a overhaul kit that comes with the cup seal, orings, spring guide, detents, and striker buffer. I know this kit isn't just for the pump but I know mine didn't have a striker buffer in it. Is it supposed to or is that just for the semi auto version? The only reason I ask is because I have a striker buffer setting on my workbench and I never remember seeing it in the kaos but it could also be from one of the spyders which I think is the culprit.
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Old 03-18-2015, 03:54 AM #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hiphophippo8 View Post
Ok thanks that might be what happened to the old one it was only halfway threaded on. I should be putting the valve in the right way I watched a couple videos to make sure and if I remember it was the small hole towards the back and larger hole towards the front I think?
Yes, that is correct. The smaller hole facing toward the back and the larger opening toward the front.


Quote:
Originally Posted by hiphophippo8 View Post
Ok so I just ordered a overhaul kit that comes with the cup seal, orings, spring guide, detents, and striker buffer. I know this kit isn't just for the pump but I know mine didn't have a striker buffer in it. Is it supposed to or is that just for the semi auto version? The only reason I ask is because I have a striker buffer setting on my workbench and I never remember seeing it in the kaos but it could also be from one of the spyders which I think is the culprit.
No striker bumper in the KP. Must be for that Spyder.
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Black and Silver Dangerous Power F8
APE Rampage board, VS bolt, magnet trigger kit, F8 gauge, REDZ barrel kit, Halo B w/ Exalt feedgate, PMI 68/4500
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