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Old 02-10-2016, 10:35 PM #1
matt_keyboardfury
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Lightbulb Azodin Troubleshooting and Knowledge

- Kaos

PROBLEM - Balls roll out the barrel.
Troubleshooting - Check to make sure your detents aren't missing or ripped/sliced off.
FIX - Replace missing ball detents, they come in your spare parts bag.

PROBLEM - Balls are chopping and breaking frequently.
Troubleshooting - Check the detents, if they are pointing down the barrel, the ball is rolling too far forward, causing a second ball to roll partially into the chamber behind it, which gets damaged when the bolt comes forward and will likely break on the next shot. Also, a dirty sticky feedneck will slow balls down.
FIX - Remove the detent covers and rotate the detents around, then tighten them back down. Also, don't use old, or COLD paint. Otherwise, clean feedneck, use a power hopper to prevent chopping.

PROBLEM - Gun will not recock.
Troubleshooting - Check the striker O ring. Also, check the cup seal spring and make sure it is not bent. Check the Velocity spring and make sure it also isn't bent. Also, make sure the gun is clean so that the bolt and striker have enough speed to slam the valve open fully.
Fix - Replace damaged oring, clean the gun, replace springs if necessary.

Problem - Gun sounds like it is "skipping" or just goes full auto until you take the tank off.
Troubleshooting - Make sure your rear grip frame bolt is tight. Make sure your rear spring isn't cranked all the way in. Inspect sear and striker for wear.
Fix - Replace missing grip frame screw, or tighten the existing screw. ease out the tension on the rear spring. Replace striker if wear is excessive.

PROBLEM - Clamping twist lock feed neck isn't working.
Troubleshooting - Ensure that your hopper feedneck isn't missing the inner clamping ring. It is what actually does the "clamping".
Fix - Replace missing part.

PROBLEM - Gun is shooting low at the chrono.
Troubleshooting - Make sure your velocity and cup seal springs aren't bent, cut, or modified. Also check your air pressure, if using CO2, check the ambient temperature. Ensure your barrel isn't loose.
FIX - Replace springs, or use OEM stock springs, or use harder aftermarket springs. Refill your tank. For CO2, you lose around 11 PSI for every 1 degree Fahrenheit, so take that in consideration if it is cold. Tighten your barrel to be flush with the body.

PROBLEM - Gun is shooting high at the chrono.
Back out your rear velocity adjustment screw, use smaller paint, replace velocity spring with a softer spring, check your tank output pressure, if you are using CO2, fire several times to vent pressure if the tank is hot. If it's still too high, replace the cup seal spring. Also, make sure you didn't screw your CO2 tank on barrel down. Imagine the tank like a Coca cola bottle, if you open it valve/cap down, you will suck in liquid, and not gas. This can cause crazy 450+ FPS hot shots and also recocking issues.


Problem - Gun is not getting air.
Troubleshooting - Check your tank for pressure. Inspect the valve pin on your tank. Make sure the gun is clean so the striker can move fast enough to slam the valve open. If the gun was apart, inspect the valve. Inspect the bolt if you maintenanced that.
Fix - Flip the valve around. Flip the bolt around. Clean your gun. Swap tanks.


Problem - Balls won't load.
Troubleshooting - If balls only fall into the breach when you pull the bolt all the way back with your hand, chances are someone has put an electronic gun bolt in your gun.
Fix - The Mechanical and Electronic gun bolts are slightly different lengths, this is to compensate for the sear distance not being the same between a mechanical and electronic gripframe. Get a mechanical bolt.


Problem - Gun is Inaccurate
Troubleshooting - Try to get a decent barrel to bore size match between your paint and barrel, this allows you to turn the velocity on the gun down because the gun will chrono slightly higher. The reduced air gives the gun a theoretical better shot quality. Check the quality of your paint.
Fix - The stock barrel is .695 bore, try to find a tighter bore. Clean your barrel. Buy good paint.
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Last edited by matt_keyboardfury : 03-15-2017 at 08:05 PM.
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Old 02-10-2016, 10:36 PM #2
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BLITZ 3 - Kaos with an Electro Grip - See Kaos for mechanical issues.

Problem - Gun Will not shoot. - See Kaos above for air pressure issues.
Troubleshooting - An electronic gun usually doesn't come with a battery, and it is recommended to replace the battery each time. Also, the guns are designed to not fire if the eyes are on, as there is nothing in the breach, therefore the circuit will not close and fire the gun. If you have adjusted your trigger from factory settings, it may be out of adjustment and holding the activation switch down, or not getting close enough to hit the switch.
Fix - Replace battery. Adjust Trigger. Turn the eyes off. - See Manual for instructions.

Problem - Gun only shoots once every 3 or 4 trigger pulls.
Troubleshooting - Again, make sure your trigger isn't so close to the switch that it isn't fully letting go of the switch every time. Also, make sure your battery is fresh. The solenoid needs plenty of juice to be popped by the board. The chemical reaction in batteries will slowly raise the voltage at idle, hence the firing every 3rd or 4th pull.
Fix - Replace battery. Adjust trigger.

Problem - Gun hot shots at the chrono if the gun sits idle.
Troubleshooting - If the gun chronos fine when firing evry few seconds, but then shoots hot if allowed to sit for a minute or more, chances are the regulator is leaking or "creeping."
Fix - Replace O rings in the regulator, if this does not resolve, replace the regulator.

Problem - The gun doesn't go full auto or activate ramp modes until the third trigger pull.
Fix - This is working as intended. See manual.


Problem - Lights are flashing on board when turning the gun on.
Troubleshooting - Chances are someone has adjusted the trigger, and the switch is being held down. These lights indicate the Edit Paramaters Mode, which is accessed by holding the trigger down while powering the board.
Fix - Adjust the trigger. If this doesn't resolve, replace board.

Problem - The gun fires like crazy if I tap the trigger one time.
Troubleshooting - Chances are the trigger is "bumping" the switch. This is caused because the trigger is just too close to the switch and the gun is recoiling and firing itself. The switch may also be broken.
Fix - Adjust the trigger. If that does not resolve, replace board.

Problem - Trigger is dead or won't push back to idle position.
Troubleshooting - Chances are the magnet between the frame and body is out of place, broken, or gone.
Fix - Position or replace the magnet.

Problem - Eyes are snapped or broken.
Troubleshooting - If the eyes were compromised in any way the gun will still operate.
Fix - Turn the eyes off or remove the eyes.

Problem - Gun is not shooting at advertised ball per second speeds.
Troubleshooting - Chances are your eyes are off. Eyes off settings have a throttled BPS rate to prevent breaks and chops from balls that aren't fully in the bottom of the chamber when the bolt is sent forward. If the eyes are on, chances are they are working and the hopper just isn't keeping up.
Fix - Turn the eyes on. Get a faster hopper.

Problem - Gun is chopping paint - See Kaos
Troubleshooting - Whereas the Kaos could have an electronic bolt that was too long, a Blitz could have a mechanical bolt that is too short. This causes the ball above the current ball to roll down and behind the primary ball, when the bolt comes forward it is damaging or cracking the ball. When the gun is next fired, the damaged ball will break.
Fix - Swap bolt to electronic length bolt.

Last edited by matt_keyboardfury : 02-11-2016 at 10:56 PM.
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Old 02-10-2016, 10:38 PM #3
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KD2 - Kaos with Upgrades - See Kaos

Problem - Gun hot shots after sitting idle at the chrono for a minute or more, but fires fine otherwise.
Troubleshooting - Chances are the reg is leaking or "creeping." Do NOT adjust your regulator while the gun is pressurized. The screw should turn easily. Removing your tank does not depressurize the reg completely. The gun holds air from the reg to the valve. The gun must be fired to vent pressure. Adjusting the reg while pressurized may have caused this issue.
Fix - Replace O rings in regulator. If that does not fix, replace the regulator.


Problem - Gun fires air down the barrel and won't stop for several seconds, or blasts air around the grip frame.
Troubleshooting - The KD2 is sprung very lightly, this allows for less kick by requiring less force to open the valve. This is achieved by the "ZERO" system under the barrel. This device allows you to adjust the spring tension on the cup seal, therefore increasing or decreasing the DURATION that the valve is open.
If you crank the velocity all the way in, and the zero system at the least tension, and raise the regulator to the highest pressure, the valve most likely will not seal and it will blast air down the barrel until the tank is removed. YOUR GUN IS NOT BROKEN. The mechanical settings are wrong. Do not return this to Azodin, or to your local dealer.
Simply adjust the spring tension in on the zero system to increase the force it has to push and close the valve.

THE ISSUE IS THAT YOUR VALVE IS GETTING STUCK OPEN - BECAUSE THE ZERO SPRING ISN'T SET STRONG ENOUGH TO FORCE THE VALVE CLOSED.


However, this has now altered your FPS readings at the chrono, because the duration that the valve is open has now been drastically reduced, thus reducing the air that is getting to the ball.

If your zero system is cranked all the way in, and you are shooting low at the Chrono, there are 2 ways to gain FPS. You can increase tension on the rear velocity adjuster, which increases the lift on the valve because it hit it harder, thus giving you more air because the duration has been raised. Your other option is to increase the reg pressure to push more air through during the short duration of the valve being open.
To better wrap your brain around the ZERO system, simply view it as a Mechanical Dwell Adjustment. Also, view your adjustments as 2 springs fighting each other for balance. If you put 20 pounds of tension on one spring, it may be a good idea to raise the tension on the other spring to counterbalance it.



iPaintSlinger - 2-10-16 - Updated formatting 2-12-16
Recommends the following for Zero Tuning.

•Reset your reg as per your manual, or you can open it up enough where it allows your marker to make a complete cycle.
•Close your zero system by screwing it all the way in.
•Open your velocity adjuster so that the screw is flush with your backcap.

Now that your zero is closed off, and your mainspring has as little tension on it as possible. You open your zero system in half turn increments until your marker begins to cycle. This will result in some sputtering as you relieve the tension on valve spring before it is able to make a full cycle, so just keep at it until it actually does make a full cycle.





This is the exact steps that I took to set my KDII up to shoot the way I liked it. I left my velocity adjuster fully unscrewed and flush with the backcap. I make all velocity adjustments through the reg (while shooting a few shots between every adjustment to relieve the pressure on the reg seat).
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Old 02-10-2016, 10:39 PM #4
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Reserved for potential editing
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Old 02-10-2016, 10:46 PM #5
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KP3


Problem - KP3 shoots great during play, but like garbage at the chrono!
Troubleshooting - When the gun is fired, the air pushes on/through the striker, which is connected to the bolt. The air travels through the bolt simultaneously propelling the ball down the barrel. If the pump is not held down, the striker is getting knocked backwards, causing the ball to not be flush with the bolt, creating a gap. This gap causes you to lose some air up the breach instead of down the barrel.
Fix - Just hold the pump as if you were playing instead of 1 handing the gun over the chrono like a pistol.
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Old 02-10-2016, 10:48 PM #6
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give me one more
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Old 02-10-2016, 10:51 PM #7
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Can I use the KD2, KP3, or Z2 barrel on other Azodins?
Yes. These are Autococker threaded.


Can I color swap the fronts and backs?
Yes. The threading is the same between models.

What's the bore size of Azodin barrels?

Kaos = .695
Blitz = .695
KD2 = .689
Z2 = .689
KP3 = .685 (Also .681 included in the white w/ gold and purple models.
KP3 X2 = .685 and now also includes the .681 back. All KP3s now have both barrel backs.

What's the length on the 2 Piece OEM barrels?
14".




Can a KD2 and Z2 be completely color swapped?

No. The KD2 uses a reg adapter, whereas the Z2's body is machined to thread the regulator directly in.


Will a KP3 body accept a normal striker and bolt to be a half backed semi auto?
Unfortunately, no. The KP3 body isn't machined to allow the bolt/striker connecting pin to be pulled back far enough to catch the sear.

Will a Kaos/KD2 take an Egrip from a Blitz or Z2?
Yes! But you will need the electronic gun's bolt also, as the sears aren't in quite the same spot.


Will a Kaos or Blitz take my KD2's or Z2's ZERO?
No. The Kaos and Blitz bodies are NOT machined to thread the ZERO in that is used on those 2 models.

Is the Rock Steady regulator any good?
This is one of paintball's best kept secrets. Yes, it's good. It can also adjust to a very wide range of pressures, from >500, all the way to 0.

Can I use a mechanical Kaos grip on my Z2 or Blitz?
Yes. But take the mechanical's bolt. The sear is in a different spot.

I bought the Azodin On/Off ASA for my Blitz3... but it won't fit!
The blitz 3 does not have the traditional Dove Tail mount from the other steel framed Azodin models. You will have to buy an adapter from an aftermarket company, such as CP.
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Old 02-10-2016, 11:01 PM #8
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Kaos 2 differences over the original Kaos model.


Body - More milling for a lighter body. Otherwise the same.

Front Grip / Expansion Chamber - This now comes apart by loosening 2 set screws and slides straight down. This means the ASA or gripframe don't have to come off anymore to get to the valve/cupseal area.

Rear Velocity Adjustor Knob - This is smaller in diameter than the last one. It is harder to take off because you can't get as good of a grip on it.

Hose Fitting - The fitting at the front grip has been completely eliminated. The hose now threads directly into the 45 degree front gas through grip.

ASA - The ASA looks better now with it's angular milling, but is now only a single intake port ASA whereas the old one was 2 ports.

Bolt - These come with the updated Kaos bolts with the fully cut out ball detents.

Feedneck - The feedneck is no longer tooless like the old twist lock design, but can clamp and hold a hopper tight. It adjusts now with an allen key.

Barrel - The barrel appears to be the same in bore and length, but is milled slightly different.
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Old 02-10-2016, 11:09 PM #9
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Taking this one also
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Old 02-11-2016, 03:43 AM #10
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ABSOLUTELY BRILLIANT!!!

A well needed post indeed.

iPS

If you could repost my tunning method. I didn't know that it would be used for science in such an elaborate thread. I cleaned it up a bit and fixed a few typos. Thanks.
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Old 02-11-2016, 07:16 AM #11
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there is an "unofficial tech support" stickied in the forum. many of these issues are covered. Maybe see if what isn't can be added.
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Old 02-11-2016, 08:46 PM #12
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This was great
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Old 02-26-2016, 05:49 PM #13
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Azodin may be phasing out the Adjustable Zero system. If you like to tinker you might want to grab a kd2/z2 body now. Looks like that's as far as STBB technology got before going to pneumatic poppet.
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Old 02-26-2016, 07:33 PM #14
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I might be mistaken, or maybe I missed the memo, but I'd bet on seeing the z system again
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Old 05-14-2016, 10:36 PM #15
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I like this better than the "Unofficial Tech Support" sticky as far as Kaos troubleshooting goes. The two should either be merged or this should be a sticky as well.
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Old 08-10-2016, 07:50 PM #16
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updated for Kaos2
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Old 11-02-2016, 06:29 AM #17
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added notes that KP3 X2 includes both barrel backs now.
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Old 03-14-2017, 07:35 AM #18
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Someone who has both a Mech Azodin and an Electro...
Can you measure and post the lengths of the bolts? Matt mentioned that hey have different length bolts, and just curious what the length difference is so I can measure mine. I'm getting a lot of chopping...
Thanks!
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Old 03-15-2017, 08:03 PM #19
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4.25 or 4 and 4/16ths or 4 and a quarter for mech bolt length. Whichever measurement you prefer.

4 and 5/16ths for the Electro bolt length.
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