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Old 02-18-2013, 02:31 PM #1975
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Quote:
Originally Posted by -Lightning- View Post
Ok rob, I need some help

So at the field today I was dry firing my gun, and it started leaking air from the bonnet Allen screw by the 7.5k burst disk. It wasn't loud or anything and I had about 1000 psi left. As soon as I unscrewed it from the Asa it stopped. There was air left and i emptied the tank and it was still not leaking. I took my friends tank and put it in and it was fine.

I emptied the tank and took it up, telling the guys it might leak. It filled up, the gauge was accurate, and it had no leaks. I put it in my gun, and it worked again. No leaks.

Have you ever heard of this happening?

I have a Ninja 68/4500 with an ultra lite reg. the gun was a proto reflex rail.
If you were dry firing and you were shooting really fast for an extended period of time, you can freeze up seals due to the moisture and how cold the condensation gets when you have a lot of air flowing at one time. This will happen on any air system but is most prevalent in CO2 systems.

Ok, so the regulator is no longer leaking, which is a good thing! Sounds like the problem corrected itself so im wondering if it was a condensation or icing up issue from rapid dry firing.

The only thing that would cause our regulator to leak in that area is if the orings on the piston are not sealing up. What number do you show by your regulator? It will look like 2 numbers - 2 numbers - 2 or 3 letters (usually RB or SBM).
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Old 02-18-2013, 03:26 PM #1976
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Quote:
Originally Posted by learningxp View Post
I just got a new BCS 68/45, and wanted to change the reg to an SLP, just wanted to know if its loctited into the tank just so I know if I would have to heat that area a little with a heat gun, or if just turning the reg/bottle by hand or straps is enough to remove the reg.
You will need a minimum of 18ft lbs of reverse torque to loosen the reg enough to remove it by hand. If you have never attempted a regulator removal or do not have the proper knowledge or tools, I'm going to recommend you call a local shop or field to see if they can do it for you. Nothing worse than not knowing what you're doing, breaking something on the reg making un-usable, and then having to spend even more money buying another reg. Best to leave this one up to people that know how to do it.
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Old 02-18-2013, 03:27 PM #1977
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaintballBob11 View Post
not sure if this has already been discussed. Played a full day with etek4am stock asa and regular ninja 50/4500 tank. everything worked fine. I filled up my tank before i left the field, later i screwed in the tank and heard a small leak coming from the asa but i do not feel any air whatsoever. not sure if its my gun macroline+asa or the tank is having an issue
As long as you have air in your bottle, submerge the regulator under water and tell us where the bubbles are coming from. If there are no bubbles, then you know the leak is in your ASA seals. If you have bubbles coming from the regulator, that means there is a leak and as long as we know exactly where the bubbles are coming from, we can tell you exactly what to do to fix it
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Old 02-18-2013, 05:06 PM #1978
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob @ Ninja PB View Post
If you were dry firing and you were shooting really fast for an extended period of time, you can freeze up seals due to the moisture and how cold the condensation gets when you have a lot of air flowing at one time. This will happen on any air system but is most prevalent in CO2 systems.

Ok, so the regulator is no longer leaking, which is a good thing! Sounds like the problem corrected itself so im wondering if it was a condensation or icing up issue from rapid dry firing.

The only thing that would cause our regulator to leak in that area is if the orings on the piston are not sealing up. What number do you show by your regulator? It will look like 2 numbers - 2 numbers - 2 or 3 letters (usually RB or SBM).
32-12-sbm
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Old 02-18-2013, 05:06 PM #1979
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Old 02-18-2013, 07:01 PM #1980
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just curious but why do ninja tanks have Chinese letters on them ik there made in usa but whats up with that
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Old 02-19-2013, 08:05 AM #1981
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errrrrrr "Ninja" its japanese not chinese...... Sorry to point out the obvious
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Old 02-19-2013, 09:00 AM #1982
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Quote:
Originally Posted by -Lightning- View Post
32-12-sbm
OK, the regulator was made the 32nd week in 2012. I recommend doing maintenance on bottle regulators about once or twice a year so its time for a cleaning and relube job. If you need a video to show you how to disassemble, inspect, relube, and put it back together again, check this link:

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Old 02-19-2013, 09:16 AM #1983
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pc_baller View Post
just curious but why do ninja tanks have Chinese letters on them ik there made in usa but whats up with that
Its Kanji letters and they stand for "Ninja Warrior". Since the name of our company is Ninja, we felt it went well with the name of our company and the layout of the graphic design on our bottles.
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Old 02-19-2013, 09:19 AM #1984
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I bought my bottle 2 months ago. It came with cracks in the gel coating as well. I can just barely feel it if i slide my nails along the crack
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Old 02-19-2013, 09:22 AM #1985
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Quote:
Originally Posted by die.another.day View Post
I bought my bottle 2 months ago. It came with cracks in the gel coating as well. I can just barely feel it if i slide my nails along the crack
Click this link: http://97.74.153.121/NinjaWarrantyTa...s/warranty.php

Follow instructions, send bottle in, and get everything taken care of with no out of pocket expense to you.
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Old 02-19-2013, 02:59 PM #1986
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Ok thanks! And how many shims should I have in the reg for:
Dm13
Proto Reflex
Empire Axe
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Old 02-19-2013, 03:15 PM #1987
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Quote:
Originally Posted by -Lightning- View Post
Ok thanks! And how many shims should I have in the reg for:
Dm13
Proto Reflex
Empire Axe
If your system came with (2) red shims, take them out. If your system also came with silver shims, leave those in. That should drop your pressure down to right around 500psi, which should operate all of those markers just fine. The Proto may need a bit higher pressure, not 100% sure though. If you drop the pressure and the Proto can't chrono over say 250-260 or you get shootdown under rapid fire, then you know you need a bit more pressure and then you can add (1) red shim.
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Old 02-19-2013, 03:21 PM #1988
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Is it ok to use dye slick while lubing the reg?
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Old 02-19-2013, 03:32 PM #1989
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Ok so there is grease which seems like Vaseline on the bonnet threads. Is this ok?
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Old 02-19-2013, 07:47 PM #1990
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob @ Ninja PB View Post
When you say he stripped the threads on the reg, are you talking about the threads on the top half of the regulator that screws into your markers ASA or on/off? If so, you can actually just purchase a replacement bonnet to replace the top half and give your regulator new threads in that area. They retail for around $12-$15

Yes, you can swap out a Ninja reg for another ninja reg if you like. Regulators DO NOT have to be loctited into the bottle. In fact, most players that travel for NPPL and PSP hand tighten their regulators on the bottles because TSA needs to inspect inside the cylinder before you fly with it. If you opt to go this route, always make sure you use the regulator as leverage to unscrew your air system from your marker and never use the back of the bottle. This method will ensure your bottle does not separate from the regulator upon removal.
Sorry for not being so detailed. Its the threads on the top half, meaning the part that goes into the ASA. I just ordered a new bonnet, itll be here in a few days, is there a certain way to install it on a tank? I'm assuming it involves using an allen wrench on the side, but i don't want to be wrong. Could you please just give a brief explanation on how to install it correctly and safely. Thank you!
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Old 02-19-2013, 10:03 PM #1991
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeadHunter59 View Post
Make sure tank is empty. Either muscle it off by hand.

Other wise use a strap wrench should twist off then.

Dunno what ninja used to put the reg on but even a strap wrench broke trying to get it off and yes lefty loosey
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Old 02-20-2013, 12:16 PM #1992
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Quote:
Originally Posted by -Lightning- View Post
Is it ok to use dye slick while lubing the reg?
Quote:
Originally Posted by -Lightning- View Post
Ok so there is grease which seems like Vaseline on the bonnet threads. Is this ok?
That is most likely the Ninja Lube you are seeing. It is ok to use any Dow 33 based lubricant so long as it does not have oil in it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by yomomma7826 View Post
Sorry for not being so detailed. Its the threads on the top half, meaning the part that goes into the ASA. I just ordered a new bonnet, itll be here in a few days, is there a certain way to install it on a tank? I'm assuming it involves using an allen wrench on the side, but i don't want to be wrong. Could you please just give a brief explanation on how to install it correctly and safely. Thank you!
In order to remove your old bonnet and install a new one here is what you need to do:

1. Degas your system entirely.
2. Loosen and remove the two bonnet screws that keep the bonnet in place on the regulator.
3. Use the bonnet removal tool included with your system (or a nice rubber grip to grab a hold of the bonnet with) and twist the bonnet until it loosens and remove it from the reg body.
4. Remove your reg piston, valve pin and spring from the bonnet if they are stuck in there. Move those pieces into the reg body.
5. Install the new bonnet onto the reg body. Make sure that you have the pin lined up properly and that you can easily depress the pin with your finger, if you can then it is in place.
6. Re-install the bonnet set screws and firmly tighten into place
7. Enjoy your new reg bonnet

If any of this is unclear or you need additional help, please feel free to PM me

Quote:
Originally Posted by BigBadGooz View Post
Dunno what ninja used to put the reg on but even a strap wrench broke trying to get it off and yes lefty loosey
Ninja is the only company that pressure fits their regulators onto their systems. They do not use loctite on the reg stems, and to my knowledge never have thankfully. I have personally always been able to loosen the regs by hand or with a little nudge with the reg locked into a vice. If you have issues removing one then I would recommend using a blow dryer or heat gun to warm the reg up and loosen the threads up a bit as they are likely bound up a little bit.

As I mentioned above, please PM me if you have any questions
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Old 02-20-2013, 03:28 PM #1993
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Yeah required a vice and two strong sets of hands to remove the tank me and my construction buddy were like wth its on good finnaly got it off and put the slp reg to the tank 2011/08 tank dunno love it but was not easy.
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Old 02-20-2013, 04:10 PM #1994
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Quote:
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Yeah required a vice and two strong sets of hands to remove the tank me and my construction buddy were like wth its on good finnaly got it off and put the slp reg to the tank 2011/08 tank dunno love it but was not easy.
We install all regulators with about 40 ft lbs of torque. We do add 1/2 of a measured drop of red loctite to slow down the removal process, not stop it entirely. You do need about 18 ft lbs of reverse torque to break it loose enough to unscrew from the bottle.

F8al - Thanks again for the help!! Much appreciated as always
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Old 02-20-2013, 05:06 PM #1995
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob @ Ninja PB View Post
We install all regulators with about 40 ft lbs of torque. We do add 1/2 of a measured drop of red loctite to slow down the removal process, not stop it entirely. You do need about 18 ft lbs of reverse torque to break it loose enough to unscrew from the bottle.

F8al - Thanks again for the help!! Much appreciated as always
I have never noticed the loctite before, maybe I'm just not paying close enough attention? lol

Happy to help with all you guys have done for me/my shop/my team
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