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Old 10-03-2011, 10:15 PM #1
cmdrsuds
 
 
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>Cocker Build< lots of questions

Looking to build an electro cocker while I'm on my *** in college this year. Any info about anything would be appreciated.

MAIN QUESTIONS: Eblade vs Worr Frame - Eyes vs No Eyes

Just want your two cents thanks
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Old 10-03-2011, 10:16 PM #2
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I'll get to the other questions once those are answered
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Old 10-03-2011, 10:35 PM #3
cww516
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short version: eblade/worrblade > worrframe, eyes > no eyes.

the worrblade is essentially the same as an e1 frame (slight differences, but it takes the same boards and triggers), while the worrframe takes a different board and doesn't have a screen. e1/e2/worrblade frames will take e1/e2/zero-b/yakuza/t boards, while the worrframe will only take its stock board or the t-board without heavy modification.

as far as eyes, there's really no reason not to use them (unless you're threatening to chop up a particularly nice looking or rare body). you can get away without if you have a decent force-fed hopper, but i can't really come up with any cons.
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Old 10-03-2011, 10:44 PM #4
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Added info about the worrframe. It has select fire but you must remove the right side grip to get access to the jumpers which are then switched to change firing modes. Not nearly as user friendly as the Eblades.
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Old 10-03-2011, 11:20 PM #5
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you still have to pull the grip to change modes with an eblade (with the exception of semi and classic on the e1 board), but it's a lot harder to lose a button soldered to a board than it is to lose a little jumper.

that, and with the e2/zero-b boards, you can adjust the rate of fire, whereas with the worrframe, you're stuck with uncapped semi, semi capped at 15, PSP 15, and maybe 3-burst? i owned one of those frames for a very short time, and it never actually saw the field, so i can't say for sure.
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Old 10-04-2011, 12:56 AM #6
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Can anyone help me out? I'm looking to buy an electric trigger for my 02 autococker. Can anyone give me a parts list? Or direct me to a place that would have one? Thanks
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Old 10-04-2011, 01:54 AM #7
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I'm not lookin for a ton of modes just custom rate of fire (12.5 ramping to be particular) and user friendliness is huge

And as far as internals go could I run basic prostock stuff and have a nice shooting gun or is there a huge difference to get Orracle internals/ lighter springs/ new valves

doesn't have to be a super gun but i want to know if making some internal upgrades would show a large boost in performance

thanks for the help so far guys!
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Old 10-04-2011, 02:49 AM #8
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is it easy to drill/ how much does it cost?
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Old 10-04-2011, 11:13 AM #9
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My advice would be to purchase a complete EBladed marker. It's cheaper than building one on your own from scratch.
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Old 10-04-2011, 05:04 PM #10
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lol or put a pump kit on it sell it and make enough to buy an ecocker

don't drill if the body isn't drilled....you will regret it when you sell it
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Old 10-04-2011, 06:19 PM #11
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WorrFrames BLOW...they are no where near the same as a WorrBlade or EBlade...not even close. Drilling is pretty easy, Planet Eclipse made a template for you to follow to locate the holes for the eye and the hole/tap for the screw that holds the cover. But like was said above, is WAY cheaper to buy an E-cocker that is built already...WAY cheaper.
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Old 10-04-2011, 07:13 PM #12
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crunching some numbers I could make one for under $250... too much?
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Old 10-04-2011, 07:55 PM #13
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Depends on what it is worth to you.
The most economical/ performance way would be to find a zero b/ e2 prostock/ vert/ nightkast etc with besales parts

If you are determined to build new
Orracle body raw drilled, e2, ccm lower internals, slik or nexus bolt, sidewinder reg, besales front block.

Or find a used e2 cocker in bst in the 250-300 range it can be done
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Old 10-04-2011, 08:03 PM #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmdrsuds View Post
I'm not lookin for a ton of modes just custom rate of fire (12.5 ramping to be particular) and user friendliness is huge

And as far as internals go could I run basic prostock stuff and have a nice shooting gun or is there a huge difference to get Orracle internals/ lighter springs/ new valves

doesn't have to be a super gun but i want to know if making some internal upgrades would show a large boost in performance

thanks for the help so far guys!
A valve is a valve. Difference in wgp and besales valve= milling. They are nearly identical. Orracle internals are good no need to change there. The lower tube is best left alone. The only difference in any lpr is size, milling andadjustability. Besales is kind of high for lprs. I would just set the tickler correctly. The ram is good but if you can get a besales with qevs it'll be better. At 15 ps +.
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Old 10-04-2011, 10:40 PM #15
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Capping bps is a major PITA in e2/zerob boards. You would be much better off with a yakuza board if you plan on using it for psp.
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Old 10-04-2011, 11:10 PM #16
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Capping bps is a major PITA in e2/zerob boards. You would be much better off with a yakuza board if you plan on using it for psp.
Did a quick review of the ZeroB manual. and you're right finding how to set a specific rate of fire looked ridiculous!! Any idea what the factory (slow, med, fast) settings are like rof wise?

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What bolt should I look into? I figure something light like delrin/ teflon will shoot just fine. Found one here for $30 feel like it should be cheaper tho
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Old 10-05-2011, 12:59 AM #17
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capping an e2 board isnt complicated at all. raise the c-del or c-off setting untill the max rof is 12.5 bps. use the rof screen to see how fast your shooting.

man that was hard wasnt it?

eblade boards are really nice imo, yea they may not be as user friendly as newer style boards but thats what makes them good. you get full control over every setting which means you can really tweak the gun to shoot exactly how you want too.

as far as bolts the wgp delrin ones are pretty good. they're delrin so they are light, and they look good on just about everything.

slik edge III is arguably the best bolt out there, cheap too, just hard to find.

you might want to consider just buying yourself a karnivor, they are great e-cockers as is and fairly easy to find...

edit: factory slow = 8bps i think? used with slower loaders...

factory mid= 10-12 bps most likely, probably be good if your using an eggy loader.

factory fast= 15bps easy.

all e2/zero b boards have uncapped semi-auto. and all ramping modes are capped at 15bps.
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Old 10-05-2011, 10:52 AM #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rebel_816 View Post
capping an e2 board isnt complicated at all. raise the c-del or c-off setting untill the max rof is 12.5 bps. use the rof screen to see how fast your shooting.

man that was hard wasnt it?

eblade boards are really nice imo, yea they may not be as user friendly as newer style boards but thats what makes them good. you get full control over every setting which means you can really tweak the gun to shoot exactly how you want too.

as far as bolts the wgp delrin ones are pretty good. they're delrin so they are light, and they look good on just about everything.

slik edge III is arguably the best bolt out there, cheap too, just hard to find.

you might want to consider just buying yourself a karnivor, they are great e-cockers as is and fairly easy to find...

edit: factory slow = 8bps i think? used with slower loaders...

factory mid= 10-12 bps most likely, probably be good if your using an eggy loader.

factory fast= 15bps easy.

all e2/zero b boards have uncapped semi-auto. and all ramping modes are capped at 15bps.
Awesome thanks man
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Old 10-12-2011, 02:59 PM #19
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Just got an eblade w/ zero b board(v1.00) and I can't get it to click/ fire faster than 1 bps. its just the frame not connected to the body yet. I've put it setting factory fast. Also I have gone into the Advanced Setup and set the breach sensor type to none and haven't seen any improvement.
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Old 10-12-2011, 03:10 PM #20
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Hold the top button until the eye turns off.

Sounds like you might have a bit of a bug, but setting the eyes to "none" isn't the same as turning them off IIRC.
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Old 10-12-2011, 03:24 PM #21
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awesome thanks man

how do I adjust the trigger itself? more specifically the magnetic return force? can't find a manual about the frame its all for the boards
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