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Old 04-14-2014, 08:42 PM #1
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Clone GT/GTi Basic Maintenance & Troubleshooting

There has been a lot of questions lately as to how to maintain and care for the Clone GT/GTi platform. In an effort to reduce the commonplace questions being asked multiple times and to save end users time this thread will address the basic needs and steps to care for your marker. It will be broken down in to the following sections as listed below, but please feel free to ask any questions you may have. Please refer to the Warranty and Service Center Directory thread seen here.

This thread has been created in conjuncture with other certified MacDev techs (shootnpoo/Mark S/Deathstick Davis) so most of the information you will see here is common practice and what MacDev themselves recommend.

*NOTE* This thread will constantly be updated, so be sure to check back often for any new information!


Section Breakdown (post #'s):
1. Regulator and drivetrain removal/breakdown
2. Drivetrain disassembly and maintenance
3. Regulator disassembly and maintenance
4. Troubleshooting questions and common issues
5. Aggressive Sports Fitted Oring Kit


Regulator and Drivetrain Removal/Breakdown:
The GT/GTi platform is a rather easy marker to work on and maintain, despite the snap judgements that some people make based on any outward appearances. The regulator and drivetrain are able to be removed with ease and take mere minutes to disassemble and service should the need arise.

Obviously people will have opinions on which lube to use. I will always recommend the V2 Militia lube as the default, especially in a case to eliminate any odd variables that could arise. I have also used (with success and no notable issues) Monkey Pooas it is a thinner grease style lubricants as are optimal for this type of platform. You DO NOT want to use straight Dow 33, Dye Slick or any thicker "paste" style lubes as they will not allow the marker to cycle properly.




The regulator and it's components are able to be accessed by unscrewing the bottomworks with an allen key. In some cases the piston may be stuck in the regulator housing in which case you will need to use a smaller allen key to apply pressure to remove it by inserting the key inside the piston shaft and pushing to one side while pulling down.



The piston and spring come apart from the res of the regulator components with ease. To remove the oring retainer simply feed a small ellen key through two of the holes while using the same allen key you used to remove the bottom works and apply pressure to break them free. Some people prefer reassembling them in this fashion and some simply hand tighten (I prefer the latter personally) so it is up to you which you practice. The velocity adjuster then comes apart from the bottomworks by using the same key you use to adjust velocity to screw it upwards and out from the bottomworks.



To remove the drivetrain from the marker first make sure the marker is degassed by either forcing a shot with the eyes on or turning the eyes off and pulling the trigger a few times. Once you have done so simply pull up on the drive cap and pull straight back.



The pieces of the drivetrain come apart by simply unscrewing them from each other. The bolt, spacer and valve should slide out from their respective kegs with ease and the power tube should pop out from the power tube cap.


Last edited by f8al : 04-15-2014 at 06:13 PM.
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Old 04-14-2014, 08:43 PM #2
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The drivetrain of the Clone GT/GTi platform complex looking yet simple to understand drives of today's spool platforms. Despite the number of visible seals, many of them are static (stationary) whereas only a few are dynamic (moving). Below the the drivetrain breakdown and the proper lubrication process for the seals.

Drivetrain Disassembly and Maintenance:

The GT/GTi platform is a five that relies on proper fitment of the dynamic seals to provide it's smoothness and efficiency. When fitting the orings it is important to make sure that the fit is snug, not tight or loose. If a part moves with ease and little effort then it is usually safe to assume that you may want to replace it.



Drive Brakdown:
• Bolt Keg
• Bolt (under bolt keg)
• Bolt Spacer (right of bolt keg)
• GTi Valve (right of spacer)
• Valve Keg (right of valve)
• Powertube (under valve keg)
• Backcap Disc
• Pullpin Detent
• Drive Cap/Pull Pin
• Drive Cover


Seen below is the GT/GTi bolt. The forward most oring is the bolt tip oring (014), bolt bumper (015x1) and bolt switch (016). You do not want to lube the bolt tip oring as it can cause buildup in the eye sockets and cause misreads or eye faults. Use Militita 2.0 Lube to fill the seam on either side of the orings as pictured. You may choose to use less lube, but that could lead to issues with sealing properly or excess friction between the bolt and the bolt keg.



Apply the same amount of lube to the inner bolt keg oring. This will allow the bolt to seal against the inside of the keg and to cycle properly.



The bolt spacer will require the same amount of lube on the inner and outer oring. This is in place to keep the bolt from traveling too far back in the drivetrain.



Insert the bolt in to the bolt keg through the threaded end with the spacer sliding on the tail end of the bolt with the slotted end being closest to the tail of the bolt.



The valve is going to be a focal point should you ever encounter efficiency issues. Lube all 3 orings making sure to fill the seams on each side of each oring.



The valve will slide in to the valve keg. The end of the valve keg that has the larger opening will face the front of the drivetrain with the end of the valve with the recessed portion facing forward as well.



The powertube orings are responsible for proper sealing and fixing barrel leaks as well as yielding the efficiency that the Clone platform is known for. Apply the same methodology for lubricating the power tube tip and mid oring.



Reassemble the drivetrain by inserting the powertube through the valve and screwing the assembly in to the powertube cap. You can use slightly less lube on the outer keg orings as they mostly only create the seal between the body and the drivetrain, but do not underlube them as it could cause friction on the orings and wear them out sooner than normal.


Last edited by f8al : 04-15-2014 at 04:50 PM.
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Old 04-14-2014, 08:43 PM #3
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The regulator internals of the GT/GTi platform are quite easy to maintain and very straight forward. Listed below are the pieces of the regulator that need normal maintenance and how to maintain them. It should also be noted that you will want to plan on using Militia Lube V2.

Regulator Disassembly and Maintenance:

The GT/GTi platform is a five that relies on proper fitment of the dynamic seals to provide it's smoothness and efficiency. When fitting the orings it is important to make sure that the fit is snug, not tight or loose. If a part moves with ease and little effort then it is usually safe to assume that you may want to replace it.

Drive Brakdown: (left to right)
Piston
Spring
Oring Retainer
Filter
Adjustment Screw
Reg Seat
Bottomworks




Start by cleaning out the inside of the bottomworks by using a cotton swab or similar device. Apply enough grease to the adjustment screw oring to fill the seam on either side of it. Insert the adjustment allen key through the bottom and screw the adjustment screw down in to the bottomworks until it bottoms out.



Apply a liberal amount of grease for the bottomworks outer oring, again using enough to fill the seam on either side of the oring. You will also want to re-install the regulator seat in the top of the adjustment screw paying close attention that it not be too worn down or have too defined of an indent in it from excessive use.



Slide the filter on to the milled down portion of the oring retainer. Once that is in place you will want to apply grease to fill the seams on either side. Lastly screw the oring retainer on to the bottomworks either by hand tightening or using an allen key to apply a little extra pressure.



The last two steps are to lube the piston oring as well as applying a small amount to the outside of the piston stem. Place the spring on the piston stem and insert the stem in to the oring retainer. From there all you have led tot do is re-insert the internals in to the regulator housing and secure the bottomworks tightly in the bottom.


Last edited by f8al : 04-15-2014 at 05:09 PM.
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Old 04-14-2014, 08:43 PM #4
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Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs'):


What tank reg should I use on my GT/GTi?

The recommended output pressure for a GT/GTis low pressure (400-450 psi). You can use any standard regulator you choose, but a low pressure output reg will yield better results. If you choose you can also run a GT/GTi on an SLP regulator.

How do I adjust my veloctiy?

In the base of your regulator there are two (2) hex key slots, a large one (black bottomworks) and a smaller one (grey reg adjustment screw). Use the smaller of the two to adjust velocity and operating pressure. There is no adjustment to the bottomworks, it is either in and holding the regulator internals in or it is out for regulator servicing. The reg adjustment screw should turn somewhat with ease whereas the bottomworks will not turn with ease when aired up.

What should my operating pressure be?

There is no "default" operating pressure that is good for all GTi's across the board. Your operating pressure depends on the tank you use, the atmosphere/weather/climate in which you play and the paint to bore match of your barrel. A good way to start is to close your reg off entirely and open it up 1 1/2 turns and then slowly open your reg up more as you chrono to field speed. You will also want to make sure you occasionally reset your pressure sensor via the programming menu when the marker is completely degassed to ensure a proper baseline reading. If you reset the pressure with the marker aired up it will use that pressure as the "zero" and give a false reading.

Why do I keep chopping/breaking/losing my detents?

There are a few factors that can cause premature detent wear. If you break paint or overlube your marker and do not clean out the detents and detent socket the detents will absorb the grease/paint and swell in size leading to taking up more room in the breach. If you modify the core of the Clone in any fashion (such as spring modding) this can also cause unneeded wear on the detents and cause them to be ineffective and need to be replaced.

Which types of orings should I use?

Buna nitrile 70 durometer are the recommended material to be used in the marker throughout. You may also use poly or viton orings per the Aggressive Sports Fitted Kit (see post below), but those will have a slightly longer break in period and will need a small amount of extra lubrication while doing so. Orings such as HNBR or Quadrings may be used if so desired, but there have not been any proven gains while using them and issues may arise. Discard if issues arise when using and revert to stock.

Which types of lubricant should I use?

The default recommended lube is the V2 Militia Lube as it is a thinner grease style lube and is specially formulated for the platform. You may also use Monkey Poo as it is also a thinner grease style lube and will work well in the marker. Lubes such as Dow33, Dow55, Sl33k, Dye Slick and all other thicker "paste" style lubes are not recommended and should be avoided as they can cause improper function and lead to issues such as FSDO, puffing, bolts stick etc.

Last edited by f8al : 04-26-2014 at 03:55 PM.
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Old 04-14-2014, 08:44 PM #5
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Aggressive Sports Fitted Drive Kit:

Kit Contents: (quantity - material/size - placement)
6 - Viton 017 - Valve
6 - Polyurethane 017 - Valve
6 - Buna 017 - Front Keg & Spacer
4 - Viton 011 - Power Tube
4 - Polyurethane 011 - Power Tube
4 - Buna 016 - Bolt Switch
4 - Buna 014 - Bolt Tip
14 - Buna 020 - Outter Drive Train


What are the differences between the Viton and Poly style orings?

The main difference is the temperature rating each material is rated for. The Viton material is rated for roughly -15*F to 400*F and rated for good to great wear resistance (life). Poly material is rated for roughly -65*F to 200*F and excellent wear resistance (life). Both materials are more durable than a standard Buna oring, but as a result will have a slightly longer break in period and therefore will have more "kick" during the 8-10 case break in period.

Why should I use this kit?

This kit is designed by Aggressive to help extend the life of your drivetrain between servicing/replacing orings and to also improve performance from the standard buna seal core. Some improvements to be seen (not guaranteed) are a smoother shot when broken in, improved efficiency, improved consistency and a decrease in operating pressure.

What do I need to do differently with this kit in my marker?

The only thing you should need to do different is to lube the core a little more to help with the slightly longer break in period of the poly/viton seals.

Last edited by f8al : 04-28-2014 at 04:24 PM.
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Old 04-14-2014, 08:44 PM #6
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Mine just in case
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Old 04-14-2014, 08:44 PM #7
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Mine just to be sure...
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Old 04-14-2014, 08:51 PM #8
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Good work so far Aaron and ty for taking this up. Lets hope that we can have this stickied as the methodologies and also most of the how to lube/maintain parts will be cross platform for the most part except for differences in exact model breakdowns.

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Old 04-15-2014, 01:03 AM #9
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Good work so far man!
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Old 04-15-2014, 02:46 PM #10
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Drivetrain disassembly and maintenance section updated. Regulator section to be done soon after.
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Old 04-15-2014, 05:09 PM #11
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Regulator posting updated.
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Old 04-15-2014, 05:39 PM #12
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How do you feel about Lurker Lube and/or pathogen super grease?
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Old 04-15-2014, 05:48 PM #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MRKINGREY View Post
How do you feel about Lurker Lube and/or pathogen super grease?
I have not used either rod those lubes so I cannot comment on their usefulness in the GT/GTi platform. I would be open to trying it should the opportunity arise, but I have had good luck with 3 other lubricants and see no reason to stray from what I know works.
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Old 04-15-2014, 08:06 PM #14
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Your parts are so shiny o.o are they stock like that or did you get them polished?
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Old 04-15-2014, 08:54 PM #15
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Nice guide, thank you!
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Old 04-15-2014, 09:01 PM #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by learningxp View Post
Your parts are so shiny o.o are they stock like that or did you get them polished?
Nope, those are stock parts and unchanged in any way from the factory.
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Originally Posted by Wicked_Bass View Post
Nice guide, thank you!
Thank you sir, there's still more to come
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Old 04-15-2014, 11:28 PM #17
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This is awesome man, very helpful.
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Old 04-16-2014, 10:45 AM #18
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Quote:
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This is awesome man, very helpful.
Thanks man, but I am not in this alone as it is a collective effort between myself, Eric/shootnpoo, Mark/Mark S. and Davis/Deathstick Davis so they deserve just as much credit as I do, I'm just the only one with time to post it haha

I am going to try and get the common issues portion updated today
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Old 04-16-2014, 10:55 PM #19
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Great work, Needs to be pined!
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Old 04-16-2014, 11:33 PM #20
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monkey poo... do you guys recommend it or should i buy magical lube by pooty?
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Old 04-16-2014, 11:34 PM #21
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Great work, Needs to be pined!
agreed!
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