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Old 07-27-2011, 06:55 PM #1
ladysmanfelpz
 
 
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Old Schoolers help! Hammer breaking balls and dbl feeding

As title says. Picked up an old hammer off here cuz i wanted a pump and love spyders. Was shooting okay but got some double feeds and ball breaks. Also has a small leak from time to time out the barrel. Any help would be appreciated.
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Old 07-28-2011, 10:05 AM #2
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put a drop of oil in the asa before you gas it up. As for the double feeds, you either need to pump it quick or keep it tilted back when you pump. A smaller bore barrel may work too
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Old 08-01-2012, 03:38 AM #3
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K not trying to revive an old thread, but I would really like some help especially that my hammer is now my main marker. So I dremmeled off the little knobs that catch the screws on the bolt, so now its pump stroke is smoother. I plan to polish the bolt and striker tomorrow. Is dow33 fine to lube the bolt and striker? K but it still has the double feeding problem. I planned to install a ball detent. Has anyone done this? I would like to go CA as well. I have the plastic trigger frame. Is it even worth buying the CA adaptor with the bottle out the back, or will that crack the frame?
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Old 08-01-2012, 11:05 AM #4
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Even pump cockers have detents, so that would be a good idea. Dow 33 will work, but oil, being lighter, will work better. I have no idea on the ca.
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Old 08-01-2012, 11:26 PM #5
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The internals are brass, as well as the inside of the stock barrel, so the bolts themselves don't really need the lube but on the orings it should work just fine.

What kind of hopper are you using? you could try the nailpolish/ electrical tape trick to try and counter it.

As for the CA, assuming that means a bottom line adapter I would not suggest it with the plastic frames, they are durable but there's not anymore of them so if you break it you just throw the gun away. if thats what your talking about send me a link because i do want a bottom line :p

you could drill and put in cocker or spyder detents but thats up to you and what you think your skill level is.
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Old 08-07-2012, 02:11 PM #6
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K i got a detent in and no more double feeding Does anyone have a manual tho? I don't know how to disassemble the valve and replace the cupseal. Sometimes leaks when CO2 is screwed in. And can't figure out how to adjust velocity either. Thanks guys.
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Old 08-07-2012, 10:20 PM #7
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howd you do the detent? pic please

Assuming yours is similar to my Hammer plus,

After taking off the grip frame the back part that is the ASA and valve combo should slide out, If you look at the brass part there are flat spots that you can use a crescent wrench to unscrew it. That gives you access to the cupseal/spring combo.

As for the velocity adjust, making the same assumption as before, if you take off the pump handle and barrel,put one of the handle thumb screws in to hold the bolt in place, and then on the face of the bolt there i a slot that you can get a flat head driver on, clockwise is increase, counterclockwise is decrease.
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Old 08-08-2012, 01:41 AM #8
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K i have my velocity all the way down and it still looks like it is shooting hot. Im leaving it in the cocked position overnight to loosen up the spring and hopefully it will be under, if not ill just cut the spring a lil. And the detent I could forward a message I got from a friend. Not sure about your marker, but mine had a small hole right in front of the front screw for the grip frame. I took an old rubber detent (not the metal ball kind) and stuck it in there. The grip frame should hold it in place when you screw it in. Look at your marker and you'll see what im talking about. Its like kingman made the hole for detent placement, but didn't have the marker come with it. For smoother operation and longevity I dremelled a little bit out of the plastic frame so it more cups the detent than squashes it and risks cracking your trigger frame (if you have the aluminum you don't need to worry about this, but you should a little bet for a better fit). Then I put a dremmel inside the gun and made a small 1/8 inch trench for the detent to lie down in under the bolt. It might be scary taking a drill or dremmel to your marker but you can't F it up too bad as the bolt o ring goes over the trench. Just don't leave the drill running and pull out of the marker and risk hitting threads and messing those up
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Old 08-26-2012, 02:04 PM #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ladysmanfelpz View Post
Does anyone have a manual tho? I don't know how to disassemble the valve and replace the cupseal.
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Old 08-26-2012, 05:28 PM #10
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Greasing the cup seal a little might stop the leak
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Old 08-31-2012, 11:36 PM #11
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Got new cupseals and that sealed it up. Would leaving the marker in the cocked position soften the main spring? Or is that pointless and I just have to clip it?

I went inside and polished that guy super smooth. Now it cocks way easy and auto trigger is actually accurate even without a stock. It seemed to be shooting hot before and I would get about 42-45 shots per 12 gram. I polished it up and now I get only about 35 shots a 12 gram. Same barrel and everything. Doesn't look any faster but its hard to tell when it was shooting hot already. Could I be wasting air? Doubt it since I have a lapco microshot with about 10" of .684 control bore. Also the gun doesnt "blurp" when I shoot so the valve doesn't look like its wasting at all. So will leaving it cocked soften up the main spring? It just clips up and isn't resting on the sear, and it takes pressure off the valve spring. Do I need to just clip it?
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Old 09-09-2012, 07:36 PM #12
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K another question. Are spring kits still available for the kingman hammer? If not, are there compatible springs?
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