So I got to thinking about what causes fsdo and how polishing solves that issue and I hit apon a simple idea to combine both surface finnishes to get the best of both situations. Basically the idea is to polsih just the space where the oring sits at rests. (leaving the rest of the bolt with the machine finish) When the bolt is at rest the orings are sitting on a perfectly smooth part of the bolt so they cant conform to the surface and cause stiction (bolt stick) like on a machined finnish. once the bolt has built up a tiny bit of momentum it switches to the machined finnish. With the rest of the stroke having a machined finnish you will keep your lube life as the bolt has the proper surface texture to retain lube. As an added benifit I'm not polishing through the anodizing but just the anodizing itself so the bolt retains all of its wear resistance. I've done it to a few bolts now with no sign of fsdo at all and the lube last the same as before. The bolt in the picture only has the front oring surface polished but on a completed bolt all 3 outer oring surfaces would have a polished section where the oring sits at rest. I'll be adding more info shortly.
you can and I have, but since the bolt sleeve's ano is much thinner you typically can't alter its surface texture much without going down to raw aluminum. with raw aluminum you get muliple draw backs such as loss of wear protection, sludging of the lube due to the raw metal mixing with it and you have to maintain the polished finnish on a continual basis. Raw aluminum really has no place in paintball internals due to these problems. Isolation polishing of the bolt is usually more than enough to prevent stiction so the sleeve can just stay stock.
If you where already going to reanodize the bolt sleeve then I would Isolate polish it since everything would be sealed with ano afterwards. Also note that the delrin sleeve can be isolation polished to no ill affect because it has no anno to begin with.
I tried to tell pooty this in the original polishing discussion. Thanks for actually doing it and proving the point.
Assumption is the mother of all **** ups.
"Thats a lot of Romans over there." "Yes but not one of them is Gisgo." Hannibal Barca and general Gisgo before the battle of Cannae in 216 BC.
Update* here's a finnished bolt inside and out. The inner bores polished surfaces are very hard to get a picture of so I could only get a picture of the rear polished area but it is polished front and rear.
yes. Part of the springs intent is to eliminate fsdo and combined with the isolated polishing mod it effectively eliminates any posibility of fsdo. The bolt in the picture is in my dynasty shego and I can leave that gun aired up indefinately and it will never get fsdo, even in the 100+ degree weather here in STL.
No, you need to spin the bolt to get an even polish. I used a drill press with the bolt fixed on a dowel rod. Also, you don't want to use just any polishing compound, use a high quality 3m finnishing glaze. Remember that only bolts with type 3 ano(olive green bolts) will you be able to change the surface texture without removing the anodizing. Aftermarket bolts have type 2 anodizing and you will most likely have to polish close or down to raw aluminum to get a significant change in surface texture. I would still coinsider that a much better option than polishing the whole bolt and removing all the anodizing.