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Old 05-27-2011, 05:28 PM #85
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So I just stumbled on this thread, I see a lot of back and forth on what parts are really needed. Is it just the bolt(and inserts), can and spool?
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Old 05-28-2011, 01:31 AM #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by playevil View Post
So I just stumbled on this thread, I see a lot of back and forth on what parts are really needed. Is it just the bolt(and inserts), can and spool?
I agree with this guy. I took the time to read post for post this thread and at the end it is a bit confusing, feels like a #2 pencil, notebook and re-read are necessary and even then I would be curious if I was ordering all the right parts...LOL.

In my case I have a completely stock with factory (except for PSP mode) settings NT10 so what would be the official parts list needed to convert to 10.5? Please and thank you.
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Old 05-28-2011, 02:15 AM #87
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If wesr could check out what I asked him to that may shed some more light on exactly what you need.
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Old 05-28-2011, 11:15 AM #88
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- 1. Spool (already have black and orange bumpers)
- 3. bolt (This is the actual soft rubber tip on the front of the bolt)
- 4. spacer rod
- 5. Solenoid manifold
- 6. Greet bolt insert
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Old 05-28-2011, 01:55 PM #89
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So is it worth upgrading the bolt and can to NT11?
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Old 05-28-2011, 06:22 PM #90
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all i got was the manifold and green flow insert... the bolt kit was on back order so i have to wait for it to show up
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Old 05-28-2011, 08:32 PM #91
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after much messing around i think ive gotten my gun to the level i want. Im running all the 10.5 internals and the spacer rod + 1 ring. Psi is at 112 and dwell is at 8. shooting at prox 275fps

I did something a little different that i havent read anyone on here do.

I used the old nt 10 spool and the new nt 11 spool rod. I took the bushing that goes in the end of the nt 11 spool rod and sanded it down a little (approx 3mm) and placed it in the spool rod. I then took some rubber like foam and used it to fill the small gap i created in the spool rod.

The NT 10 had a bushing to aluminum contact for the spool. the NT11 had the same thing just transferred which piece was making the contact to the bushing. Ive basically tried to create a contact point that will have only composites as contact points. and to be honest it might only be because im shooting at approx 275 but ive never shot a marker with less kick in my life. There is a very very small amount but nothing compared to the original NT10 with the bwing mod or the 10.5mod. I will try and get some pics up and also a vid of the kick test to help you guys understand what ive done

cheers
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Old 05-28-2011, 09:26 PM #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fully loaded View Post
after much messing around i think ive gotten my gun to the level i want. Im running all the 10.5 internals and the spacer rod + 1 ring. Psi is at 112 and dwell is at 8. shooting at prox 275fps

I did something a little different that i havent read anyone on here do.

I used the old nt 10 spool and the new nt 11 spool rod. I took the bushing that goes in the end of the nt 11 spool rod and sanded it down a little (approx 3mm) and placed it in the spool rod. I then took some rubber like foam and used it to fill the small gap i created in the spool rod.

The NT 10 had a bushing to aluminum contact for the spool. the NT11 had the same thing just transferred which piece was making the contact to the bushing. Ive basically tried to create a contact point that will have only composites as contact points. and to be honest it might only be because im shooting at approx 275 but ive never shot a marker with less kick in my life. There is a very very small amount but nothing compared to the original NT10 with the bwing mod or the 10.5mod. I will try and get some pics up and also a vid of the kick test to help you guys understand what ive done

cheers
This is very interesting.
basically, the plastic red bumper at the end of the spool is hitting composite material of which you have replaced after shaving 3mm off ?
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Old 05-28-2011, 11:21 PM #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fully loaded View Post
- 1. Spool (already have black and orange bumpers)
- 3. bolt (This is the actual soft rubber tip on the front of the bolt)
- 4. spacer rod
- 5. Solenoid manifold
- 6. Greet bolt insert
No O-rings? Thought I saw some where someone mentioned some o-rings that were necessary because the NT11 bolt used them but the NT10 did not.

Also when you say "already have black and orange bumpers" so is this something you re-use from the NT10 I assume. Sorry but I am new to Dye markers and the NT10 just got my new NT10 this past week.

Thanks
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Old 05-28-2011, 11:33 PM #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G.Simpson

No O-rings? Thought I saw some where someone mentioned some o-rings that were necessary because the NT11 bolt used them but the NT10 did not.

Also when you say "already have black and orange bumpers" so is this something you re-use from the NT10 I assume. Sorry but I am new to Dye markers and the NT10 just got my new NT10 this past week.

Thanks
You don't need to buy orings but you will need to put orings on the new spool and rod. I suggest either buying a parts kit or just doing the easy thing and swapping the orings from your original spool and rod. You can swap them out directly.
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Old 05-28-2011, 11:37 PM #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nitroball
This is very interesting.
basically, the plastic red bumper at the end of the spool is hitting composite material of which you have replaced after shaving 3mm off ?
Kind of. The old nt had the red bumper on the spool hitting the metal back of the spool rod. The new nt switched that up. They made a metal spool and a black bumper on the rod. I used the nt10 spool with the red bumper and then used the new nt11 spool rod with the black bumper. But I modified the black bumper. I shaved it down and added a more shock absorbent rubber on top. I have taken pictures and will upload soon with an explination.
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Old 05-29-2011, 12:26 AM #96
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Last edited by fully loaded : 05-29-2011 at 12:45 PM.
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Old 05-29-2011, 11:47 AM #97
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You could also just stick with the nt10 spool and use the nt11 spacer stem. I believe that black piece is a reg seat so its hard rubber/plastic.

No work to do and will probably yield similar results.
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Old 05-29-2011, 11:48 AM #98
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PS- fully loaded, your pics arent working
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Old 05-29-2011, 12:05 PM #99
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PS- fully loaded, your pics arent working
really? they load up for me everytime i go to this page...ill upload specific links then

I've done just that. I took the nt11 spool rod and modded that black seat reg. that comes in contact with the spool itself. i shaved the black seat reg down a bit and then added a rubber that has more flex to it so as to absorb more of the impact
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Old 05-29-2011, 12:13 PM #100
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Yeah the pics aren't working for me either fully_loaded.

*The reason it doesn't is Fileserve only lets you download an image it doesn't host the image for hot linking (linking on another site other than fileserve servers). You need to use photobucket or something like that.

Last edited by garychew : 05-29-2011 at 12:15 PM.
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Old 05-29-2011, 12:13 PM #101
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You can see em cause they are cached on your computer.

Use http://imageshack.us/ and upload the pics. You can embed them in the post cause I think fileserve wants you to download them.
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Old 05-29-2011, 12:46 PM #102
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anything now?
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Old 05-29-2011, 12:54 PM #103
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Yep working now.
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Old 05-29-2011, 02:50 PM #104
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Yeah they work now.

My only fear would be the proper spool depth and spring tension. Hard to tell if the rubber foam is flush with the end of the stem but it looks like its going in somewhat.
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Old 05-29-2011, 03:26 PM #105
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spool depth is a slight bit deep approx 1mm...i havent noticed a difference in the tension but like i said before i kept the black reg seat in there so it doesnt sink too much
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