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Old 04-25-2011, 10:00 PM #1
paintballer231
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Karni and Factory F1 Setup Specifications

I need some odd tidbits of information

Factory IVG Setting For A Karnivor (# Of Turns In From Flush)
They were always adjusted for Chrono via the HPR and I was taught the opposite so I never hunted for this info but its nice to have!

Eclipse Factory F1 HPR Pressure
Im assuming(325)PSI as the Eclipse Valve is Belsales MFG'd
Eclipse Factory Setup Method.
I usually Set HPR To Ballpark Valve Pressure ,LPR then Chrono IVG to taste from Flush but with the Nelson Wormscrew adjuster this method proved to be less than satisfactory.
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Old 04-27-2011, 09:36 PM #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paintballer231 View Post
I need some odd tidbits of information

Factory IVG Setting For A Karnivor (# Of Turns In From Flush)
They were always adjusted for Chrono via the HPR and I was taught the opposite so I never hunted for this info but its nice to have!

Eclipse Factory F1 HPR Pressure
Im assuming(325)PSI as the Eclipse Valve is Belsales MFG'd
Eclipse Factory Setup Method.
I usually Set HPR To Ballpark Valve Pressure ,LPR then Chrono IVG to taste from Flush but with the Nelson Wormscrew adjuster this method proved to be less than satisfactory.
For the Karni IVG, factory setting was supposedly around 2 turns in from flush or 2 threads visible. This also caused me to run the HPR at about 280 psi for 280 fps.

I run my F1 at 325 PSI.
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Old 04-28-2011, 12:37 AM #3
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Best bet is to start with the IVG in two turns from flush and with the inline at 0, slowly up the psi until the marker functions normally. Cycles and all that jazz.

Once it's cycling, put it over a chrono with some paint and up the pressure until the FPS peaks and starts to drop again. Back the inline off until you're at the peak. Which, at two turns in, should be close to a normal FPS rating. About 280-290. If you're peak is below that, move the IVG in another half turn and start all over until you can get the peak FPS right where you'd like it to be.

I prefer my markers to be at 285. Not too high, not too low. 300 ****s people up if you bunker them with it. 285 isn't so bad, so that's what I use.
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Old 04-28-2011, 10:28 AM #4
foreverpsycotic
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That is odd that the F1s run so high, my Pro+ runs at 190 psi.
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Old 04-28-2011, 03:21 PM #5
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Originally Posted by foreverpsycotic View Post
That is odd that the F1s run so high, my Pro+ runs at 190 psi.
I want to say its due to the design of the marker. The Pro+ uses a traditional FB while the F1 uses an ASA type of "FB". I think the Pro+ has a larger volume valve chamber. Now how much larger I have no idea, and I dont know if the difference is enough to cause such a drastic PSI difference, but, this is just an assumption, I have never tested it scientifically.
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Old 05-03-2011, 02:02 PM #6
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The F1 has a Valve Chamber that is the same size as a "Normal Cocker " but is the same length as a Minid Model .The Other big difference is the fact that the F1s have a dedicated LP Passage for the LPR /Ram.

Im using the wormscrew adjuster so the IVG scale is useless to me.
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Old 05-03-2011, 06:01 PM #7
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Originally Posted by paintballer231
The F1 has a Valve Chamber that is the same size as a "Normal Cocker " but is the same length as a Minid Model .The Other big difference is the fact that the F1s have a dedicated LP Passage for the LPR /Ram.

Im using the wormscrew adjuster so the IVG scale is useless to me.
i know that is what the PE advertisment says, but I believe they're comparing it to a mini length setup vs PE's FRM setup. I bet if the volume of air could be measured, it would be definitely have more volume than mini volume but less than a full bodied marker w traditional fb. There is an extra block to hold more air, I dont see how it could be exactly the same.

And as far as the worm screw goes, what I did once was screw it out as far as it can go then from that point screw it in, counting each full turn until you are all the way in,
then turn it out half as many times as u turned it in. now ur at half way.

However with stock PE springing I usually had it at about two turns in from flush and up the reg till I hit 280 fps. It gave me a nice smooth consistent shot that way.
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Old 05-04-2011, 01:44 PM #8
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good info
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Old 09-28-2011, 02:27 AM #9
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I will shoot it this weekend and give all of this a go!
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Old 10-16-2011, 12:51 AM #10
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Im getting it back out there this weekend!
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Old 10-16-2011, 01:08 AM #11
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What did the factory use to seal the connection between an Eclipse ram and Eclipse QEVs?
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Old 10-16-2011, 05:47 PM #12
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I believe they were tiny o-rings, I just use blue loctite works great! Hope to see some pics soon
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Old 10-18-2011, 08:32 AM #13
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Originally Posted by paintballer231 View Post
What did the factory use to seal the connection between an Eclipse ram and Eclipse QEVs?
like mryella said, i believe the QEV's bought seperate came with tiny "orings" of some sort, but if they came factory installed, they were loctited. My DC2 QEV's were loctited to the ram without those "orings".

im quoting orings becuase they arent exactly orings, but some sort of oring looking piece made from a different material other than the traditional oring rubber.
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Old 10-20-2011, 02:52 PM #14
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I know exactly what your talking about.I just encountered some on a customers marker.
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