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Old 06-08-2014, 11:32 PM #1
jtguy2269
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Mags and c02

Might be a dumb question, but where I live in the mountains our local field only has c02. Can a mech mag handle it? Looking for something more than a Tippman.
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Old 06-09-2014, 01:04 AM #2
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Um . . .

Yep! Make sure you have the classic style all-stainless valve (A.I.R./Minimag/'Classic', etc), and not one of the newer RT-type valves, and you will be golden.

Sheesh, if you are running a Tippy and go to a mag, it will be like moving from a dump truck to a decked-out Humvee. Every bit as tough and reliable as the Tippy, but way more elegant, way faster, way simpler, way more quiet, a million times smoother, and best of all, your paint will actually be consistent from shot to shot.

Just be sure to learn the trigger. Release fully each and every time. With practice (and maybe even with no practice), you will be amazed by how much faster you can shoot a mag than a Tippy.

Lots.

Good luck.
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Old 06-09-2014, 01:33 AM #3
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The biggest concern is how you would be running the co2 tank. You would have to: A) run the co2 tank with a remote, which is no problem. The remote line will keep any liquid out of the gun. B) turn the co2 tank into an anti-siphon tank. Harder to do now, but it will also keep the liquid out of the gun. Basically, you just need to keep liquid co2 out of the gun.
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Old 06-09-2014, 08:55 AM #4
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I did for a long time when I was young and couldn't afford a compressed air tank. Classic valve and run an expansion chamber and you should be good.
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Old 06-09-2014, 12:46 PM #5
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Yes you can use an expansion chamber send me a pm if you need help setting it up or your looking for something.
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Old 06-09-2014, 01:03 PM #6
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I use co2 on my classic mags. Love it! I get more shots from my 20oz tank than I would a compressed air tank - less trips to the fill station. The shot to shot consistency is the same as compressed air as long as you don't get liquid into the valve (see below).

Using co2 requires taking a couple of precautions:
Use a foregrip or expansion chamber to give any liquid that enters the gun time to convert from liquid to gas.
Use an angled bottomline to minimize the amount of liquid that enters the gun in the first place.
For the best results, use a remote.

There is some black oily substance (comes from old dirty co2 fill tanks) that will build up on the air passages after lots of use. Rinse it off if you'd like but it doesn't hurt anything. Co2 does not "eat o-rings" like people will tell you, as long as you don't allow the freezing co2 liquid into the gun (see above)(it's not like there's a lot of o-rings to replace anyways, the powertube o-ring is pretty much the only one you'll need to replace with any frequency regardless of the air source you use).
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Old 06-09-2014, 01:10 PM #7
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and splurge for a LVL X bolt and a force feed hopper, I use a Rotor.... I run one on my RT and its amazing how many chops it prevents. If that can handle the RT at about 20+bps, it will be rare for you to have a chop with a classic valve.
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Old 06-09-2014, 01:17 PM #8
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You are going to want a Magic Box when running CO2
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Old 06-09-2014, 01:50 PM #9
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I run a 3.5oz strait into my VASA. Love it, no issues.
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Old 06-09-2014, 02:11 PM #10
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You are going to want a Magic Box when running CO2
Riiiiiiiiggggghhhhhht . . . . .

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Old 06-09-2014, 02:46 PM #11
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You are going to want a Magic Box when running CO2
This guy knows what he is talking about.
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Old 06-11-2014, 10:13 PM #12
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Appreciate everyone's help. I already have multiple hoppers an a large array of dms, Timmy's, an shockers. But do to my job in the mountains of Montana, closest paintball store is 4hrs away so I play on a woods all field with co2 option only. Can anyone hook it up with a link to get to know the markers? Kind of like zdpb for shockers?

Going to go for the classic mag. Familiar with having to get the full trigger pull. When I started playing back in 2001 I used cockers.
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Old 07-01-2014, 01:07 PM #13
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Remote is your best option (ran one for many years with no problems). Other best option, is a large (6 chamber at least) expando.

RT and X valves need more pressure than the 850psi from Co2 to run correctly.

L10 bolts will also work well with Co2.
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Old 07-02-2014, 08:56 AM #14
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RT and X valves need more pressure than the 850psi from Co2 to run correctly.
That's not exactly correct. They'll run on it, but you won't usually get that runaway RT effect that many people are looking for. For example, put a standard 800spi output HPA tank on a stock RT... works fine.
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Old 07-03-2014, 12:21 PM #15
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That's not exactly correct. They'll run on it, but you won't usually get that runaway RT effect that many people are looking for. For example, put a standard 800spi output HPA tank on a stock RT... works fine.
You can still get decent trigger bounce with an intelliframe with a blade trigger off a normal 800-850 psi tank.
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Old 07-03-2014, 01:08 PM #16
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You can still get decent trigger bounce with an intelliframe with a blade trigger off a normal 800-850 psi tank.
Yes, you can, especially a broken in one or with pin modification.
The point is that just because the manual says "use only with HPA" doesn't mean that your RT won't shoot perfectly fine on co2 if you take a couple of common sense precautions (don't use a siphon tank and do use an angled bottom line).
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Old 07-09-2014, 01:55 AM #17
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A tually, the reason why you don't use co2 with a RT or X valve type valves, 8s because the orings used inside are sensitive to not only the pressure changes associated with co2, but the material of said orings does not like co2. You might get one game, one day out of it, but your orings will take a dump and you will cause leaks. Stay safe and follow recommend gas for the valve. Anyone who says otherwise, only makes mags leak, not how to fix them. Bezides, co2 is an extremely dirty gas, since the steel tanks used to store it, will rust on the inside and that scale can go into the gun and cause leaks.

So co2 ok for classic valves. HPA only for everything else
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Old 07-09-2014, 10:59 AM #18
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This guy knows what he is talking about.
Hooray for someone who doesnt know me or what a dodgy face means!!

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Old 07-09-2014, 07:19 PM #19
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Originally Posted by Nobody609 View Post
A tually, the reason why you don't use co2 with a RT or X valve type valves, 8s because the orings used inside are sensitive to not only the pressure changes associated with co2, but the material of said orings does not like co2. You might get one game, one day out of it, but your orings will take a dump and you will cause leaks. Stay safe and follow recommend gas for the valve. Anyone who says otherwise, only makes mags leak, not how to fix them. Bezides, co2 is an extremely dirty gas, since the steel tanks used to store it, will rust on the inside and that scale can go into the gun and cause leaks.

So co2 ok for classic valves. HPA only for everything else
Wrong on all accounts. RT valves use the same urethane o-rings that Classic valves do. You can also replace with Buna-90 if you'd like. O-rings are not sensitive to pressure changes (if they were, you wouldn't be able to use SHP regs wouldya?), and the RT valve has a regulator just the same as a classic valve anyways. Co2 is stored as a liquid and is not inherently dirty, even the dirtiest of fill tanks will only result in a discoloration of the liquid and/or some oily sludge (which causes no issues and can actually help lubricate). Not only that, you're just as likely to get contaminants in your tank from HPA as co2 - not likely as they have to squeeze past the fill nipple/ pin valve on either tank.

Last edited by apes4us : 07-10-2014 at 08:59 AM.
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