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Old 04-14-2011, 08:08 PM #1
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Hand Removable Bolt Guide Add On - Walkthrough

Time for another walkthrough. This mod will add a hand removable section to your bolt allowing you to remove and service your shocker bolt without tools. It will also redirect the puff of air released from the eigen bolt up and away from your face and body. It works on stock sft guides, evolve guides, Gen1 nzd adj guides, and any other guide that is flat or domed on the back.

TOOLS NEEDED - hacksaw or coping saw , sandpaper, dremel/drill, 1/8"(or similar) drill bit

MATERIALS - (2) 1 Liter soda bottle's , plastic dip , your choice of paint (spray paint, automotve, duracoat, ect...)




STEP 1 - Get 2 liter soda bottles with the cap style of your choice.


STEP 2 - Cut the top off 1 of the soda bottles right at the neck. Remove the cap and saftey seal before cutting because its much easier than after.


STEP 3 - Sand the end completely flat but leave a rough sanded finnish on that surface.



STEP 4 - Drill 4 or 5 1/8" holes spaced about 1/32" apart in the threaded part. The hole should clump up on one side as seen in the picture. Clean up the holes with a small razor blade.




STEP 5 - Now you can either paint the threaded section to match your gun or leave it as bare plastic if it happens to match your gun already. Personally I used a black epoxy spray paint and once it cures holds up very well to wear. If you are using a domed bolt guide like evolve or gen 1 ndz guide then use a hair dryer to heat the sanded face of the threaded seaction. After 30 seconds or so line the threaded section up with the back of the bolt guide and force it to conform to the domed shape with your fingers.

STEP 6 - Take the second liter bottle and dry out the inside and wipe the cap clean with a degreaser.

STEP 7 - Plastic dip the cap all the way past the saftey seal on the bottle. Follow the instructions on the plastic dip can for best results with it. Dip the cap 2-4 times for durability.




STEP 8 - Once the cap is completely dry use a razor to make a cut right between the cap and saftey seal. Cut closer to the safey seal so there is extra rubber to cover the end of the cap completely.

STEP 9 - Now screw your bolt guide into your gun and line up the holes on the back cap facing up. Wipe the areas clean with degreaser and glue the cap section to the bolt guide. I use hot glue because it holds rock solid in normal tempatures (50-95*f) but can still easily be removed later. To remove it I just set the guide in the freezer for 15 minutes and it will break right off. If you want it to be permanent then use an epoxy such as jb weld.
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Old 04-14-2011, 08:52 PM #2
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Stress the "dip 2-4 times".
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Old 04-14-2011, 09:00 PM #3
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Very nicely done sir
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Old 04-14-2011, 11:01 PM #4
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wow, i was wondering what the awesome black part was, never guessed it was a soda cap
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Old 04-14-2011, 11:41 PM #5
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You post stuff like this and then I remember why I never have time for homework
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Old 04-15-2011, 06:28 AM #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pupANsuds View Post
wow, i was wondering what the awesome black part was, never guessed it was a soda cap
Yes, it comes out supprisingly clean looking, as nobody has yet guessed what what I make them out of before I tell them. It is also very light weight.
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Old 04-15-2011, 01:51 PM #7
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Are they two 2 liter bottles, or two 1 liter bottles? The caps are different sizes (at least pepsi products)

*edit*
Aside from that, I think i'll be doing this this weekend! I was wondering how you made it. That's awesome.
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Old 04-15-2011, 02:17 PM #8
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1 liter and 2 liters should both work and I think even most 20ounce bottles do to. The cap size doesn't really matter its the size of the neck on the threaded part. You want it to cover the bolt guide and some smaller bottles won't. You can use the older long style cap if you want.
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Old 04-15-2011, 03:58 PM #9
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I saw that on your shego that is for sale. Thought to myself. "WTF did ccluff come up with now......"

Now we know!

Nice work, as usual!

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Old 04-16-2011, 06:10 AM #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rhino1XL View Post
I saw that on your shego that is for sale. Thought to myself. "WTF did ccluff come up with now......"

Now we know!

Nice work, as usual!

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The FS thread is classic Pbn.... Bunch of illiterates around here
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Old 04-17-2011, 12:27 AM #11
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What if I have a dynasty bolt guide?
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Old 04-17-2011, 06:19 AM #12
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If the back of the guide is not flat you either have to try and conform the cap to the bolt guides back with a hair dryer (heat) if possible, mill/sand flat the back of the existing bolt guide, or buy a cheap sft bolt guide to put the hand removable cap on. You can't see any of the sft guide once the new hand removable back cap is installed.
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Old 04-20-2011, 12:12 PM #13
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why do you want your holes drilled in the neck to be clumped on one side?
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Old 04-20-2011, 12:18 PM #14
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because if you point the clumped section of holes towards the top of the gun all the air vented from the eigen bolt is directed completely away from your face and hands/body. If the holes are evenly space around the back cap then your hands will get hit by a puff of air every time you shoot.
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Old 04-25-2011, 02:09 PM #15
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I just finished mine except I don't have any plasti dip, so I'll have to get some. But awesome idea cluff.

What did you use to keep the cap on the threaded section?
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Old 04-25-2011, 03:19 PM #16
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/\hot glue. I wiped both surfaces down with degreaser first and it sticks very well. I would suggest that first while your still tweaking the cap, then when you get it finnished and how you like it you can pop the cap off and jb weld it on for a completely permanant solution
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Old 04-25-2011, 06:02 PM #17
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I was thinking about modelling glue, as it basically melts the two plastic pieces together. But I'll give hot glue a whirl and see how it goes.

Oh, and before I plasti-dip my cap how did you get the grooved look in yours? Was that just a result of fewer dips? I've never used the stuff before, so I'll probably use a couple extra bottles as test runs.
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Old 04-25-2011, 06:35 PM #18
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1 container of plastic dip is more than enough. You can close the cap back up and use it more than 1 time, plus you get enough to make a ton of caps.

The straight knurl was already on the cap to begin with. When you freshly dip the cap it hides the knurl but once it dries the rubber shrinks around the cap and the knurl shows through nicely. 2-4+ dips are highly recomended.

Modeling glue is not what you want, your glueing plastic to metal not plastic to plastic like what is required for modeling glue. You dont want to glue the cap onto the threaded section, you want to glue the threaded section to the back of the bolt guide.
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Old 04-25-2011, 06:48 PM #19
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No, I meant the bottle cap to the threaded bottle top. I used JB-Weld to adhere the threaded top to the bolt guide.

*edit*
Just read we don't want to glue the cap to the threaded top. Why is this?

*edit2*
I think we're getting each other confused due to terminology. I know the threaded top portion of the bottle is glued to the end of the bolt guide. What I'm wondering is whether or not I will need to glue the actual bottle cap to the threaded bottle (which is attached to the bolt guide) Blargh!1!1!
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Old 04-25-2011, 08:26 PM #20
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no you dont need to glue it, just screw the bolt guide on the gun, gas up, then give the cap a tighten down. When you de-gass the cap will be more than tight enough to stay put. The only time the cap will unscrew is if you try to remove the bolt while the gun is gassed up. In that case just screw the cap back on while the gun is gassed up to tighen it back up.

You can glue it but there is no reason. If you don't glue it you can change caps easily because they can get dammaged.
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Old 04-25-2011, 09:09 PM #21
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Ooohhh. I hadn't thought about damage to the cap. That's a good idea. I'll leave it unglued then. Thanks for the help!
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