Ever wanted a single trigger electro pump? Angel LCD frames can be installed on Autococker bodies by drilling an additional hole at the front of the frame inside the trigger guard. In this guide, I drilled a single Angel LCD frame to use on an MQ2'd Sniper. If you need help doing this, there are many examples in the Autococker section of the *Official* Do-it-Yourself Guides Sticky. This guide will show you how to convert the electronics.
Parts you will need:
Scenario Dreams Universal T-Board Kit
Angel LCD Board (Please use a dead board )
Capacitor-2200uF (ION, Eblade)
Angel LCD Board w/o the Screen Pack
The first thing you want to do is strip the board of everything but the trigger microswitch, button microswitches, and solenoid connectors (if you choose to use them). This will make it easier to cut out the board to fit a 9V battery in the frame.
Once you have all, the components out, you want to trace a 9V so you know where to cut. I would do this by mounting the board back in the frame, and tracing a 9V with the battery connector attached from on the back of the board.
This was my first attempt. Hopefully your first will turn out cleaner. I cut too low.
Most of the wiring is done on the back of the board. The specific color of wiring to the connectors depends on the harness you get form Scenario Dreams. You will need to refer to this page: Scenario Dreams, LLC. For this build, I had Wiring Harness Type B. I ran everything to the board (as shown below) except for the battery harness, capacitor, and LED.
You shouldn't have this much board left if you did it right. If you do, then you would need to cut these traces. I ended up cutting the board high enough to make that step unnecessary, since I needed more room for the battery harness and capacitor. The next post will have a pic.
After you have it all wired up, carefully stuff it into the frame:
This was my first build. I drilled the Angel LCD frame to match the grip frame hole spacing on a cocker body. The electronics power an MQ2 valve.
I learned some things along the way as I made more. The next post will show more advanced techniques...
This cut moves the battery up, leaving room for a capacitor mounted on board below.
I also wire the battery harness through a slot in the board where the capacitor leads go through.
Here is an example of using a Scenario Dreams "Connector for Spyder/Wrath solenoid/trigger" or the solenoid instead of an on-board mount. The advantage is that it's less stress on the MQ2 solenoid's connector if you are constantly tinkering with it. (What you will also see in the picture is an auto-trigger test switch.)
You can use clear grips to see the LED:
Or you can mount the LED through what used to be the charging port using a LED Panel Mount Holder: