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Old 03-21-2011, 06:26 PM #1
saM!
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NT11 issues with oring 111 and cylinder

Is anyone having issues with oring 111 and the cylinder? I'm getting cuts in the exact same pattern as all the little holes at the end of the cylinder.

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Old 03-21-2011, 06:34 PM #2
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Originally Posted by saM! View Post
Is anyone having issues with oring 111 and the cylinder? I'm getting cuts in the exact same pattern as all the little holes at the end of the cylinder.

Do you ever get stuttering when you shoot your NT11?
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Old 03-21-2011, 07:17 PM #3
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What I have noticed is a different sound signature, kinda like when the dwell is open to long. Dwell set at 9 with green bolt tip, no spacers, pressure set at 130psi. I also have a problem with inconsistent velocity, 2 or 3 shots within 5fps, then one shot would jump 10-15 fps. I completely checked the bolt/orings and hyper 3, this is all I could find.

My NT was working flawless last weekend
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Old 03-21-2011, 08:53 PM #4
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That looks like an nt11 bolt so why is your pressure so high? Should be around 110 without any spacers.

I also found dwell 10 seems to work best on the nt11.
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Old 03-21-2011, 10:50 PM #5
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Any trash on the inside of your can? I found some milling shavings in mine. If you were using paint from Ricky's to test your consistency, bad idea.

This is Chris by the way. If you want, i'm on the West side, and can check it out for you.
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Old 03-21-2011, 11:35 PM #6
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Originally Posted by saM! View Post
What I have noticed is a different sound signature, kinda like when the dwell is open to long. Dwell set at 9 with green bolt tip, no spacers, pressure set at 130psi. I also have a problem with inconsistent velocity, 2 or 3 shots within 5fps, then one shot would jump 10-15 fps. I completely checked the bolt/orings and hyper 3, this is all I could find.

My NT was working flawless last weekend
There is a chance your brown(bumper) o-ring is causing a seal. It's not supposed to do that, it really screws with how the marker fires. The solution that was suggested to me, when my NT started acting up, was to sand down a spot on the bumper o-ring to keep it from creating a seal.
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Old 03-22-2011, 12:49 AM #7
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Is this a known issue with nt11's?
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Old 03-22-2011, 08:23 AM #8
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Any trash on the inside of your can? I found some milling shavings in mine. If you were using paint from Ricky's to test your consistency, bad idea.
I've broken the gun down twice, the oring not installed was after Ricky's this past Sunday. The oring installed was after 4 pods of Ultra Evil, matched bore size, roughly 105-110psi. I didn't find any shavings but I'll go through the gun again before Sunday. Where are you guys going to be on Sunday?
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Old 03-22-2011, 08:51 AM #9
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Originally Posted by dmented-predator View Post
There is a chance your brown(bumper) o-ring is causing a seal. It's not supposed to do that, it really screws with how the marker fires. The solution that was suggested to me, when my NT started acting up, was to sand down a spot on the bumper o-ring to keep it from creating a seal.
With the way o-ring 111 is getting cut up I don't think it seals anymore, maybe the gun is fixing itself. lol

Page 19 of the manual states the bolt, labeled as 2, has two o-rings, D and G, which are 111 and 015.

Page 14 states when the bolt begins to move forward the 016 bolt sail O-ring seals inside the cylinder, cutting off the primary air supply to the shot chamber. I'm assuming that's before 016 was changed to 015.

Which one of the Dye techs will I be visiting in HB?
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Old 03-22-2011, 10:18 AM #10
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Is this a known issue with nt11's?
Considering my NT11 completely failed on me the first tournament I used it, it was an issue with mine. I haven't had any problems since then, but it sticks in your mind when something fails the second game into a tournament. My guess is this is a side-effect of them raising the circumference of the bolt. How wide spread is it? I have no idea.
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Old 03-22-2011, 02:09 PM #11
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...
Which one of the Dye techs will I be visiting in HB?
no dye at HB... i was looking to get my nt11 fixed at hb too...

Last edited by johnnyblast : 03-22-2011 at 02:14 PM.
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Old 03-22-2011, 03:00 PM #12
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no dye at HB... i was looking to get my nt11 fixed at hb too...
I think someone said CC paintball is gonna be there so you can bring your nt11 to them. Will knows his ****.
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Old 03-22-2011, 03:46 PM #13
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I think someone said CC paintball is gonna be there so you can bring your nt11 to them. Will knows his ****.
i'll check out CC but i dont think they are doing gun services at the event. they'll probally gonna say come by the shop but CC is hour and half drive for me and they'll charge like $20 for taking a look at it...

if dye was there... it would've been FREE!!!!!!! haha
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Old 03-22-2011, 04:45 PM #14
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Yeah I think they are doing work for DYE so it may actually be FREE!

Best bet is to call em up and ask.
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Old 03-23-2011, 11:18 AM #15
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Howdy folks.

The 111 o-ring is designed to be a bumper, not a seal. If there are nicks in it that will not affect performance, but the subject at hand is, why is the bumper getting nicked in the first place?

I've noticed some things about your original post. First of all, your pressure is way up there. Bring it down to 110psi. Stock dwell is 9, I run it at 10.

Also of note - Some of the Ironmen sand down the bumper to avoid it sealing (as previously mentioned in this thread).

Once you get your pressure and dwell dialed in, I'd say the nicks in the bumper are no problem, unless of course it is causing a seal. At that point you can sand down the bumper or send it in to Dye so the techs can have a look see.

If you're going to call, the best time is 9am - 4pm PST between Monday and Friday. 858-536-5183 ext 0

Also, we intend on having a gun tech in Huntington Beach and he will be sharing space with CC paintball.

Cheers.
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Old 03-23-2011, 05:40 PM #16
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I'm starting to believe it's a seal that's causing the problem. Thanks for the quick reply Zyzek!
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Old 03-23-2011, 08:21 PM #17
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I'm starting to believe it's a seal that's causing the problem. Thanks for the quick reply Zyzek!
That's why I brought it up. Take a look at your picture, the bumper is at the height as your sail o-ring. That's just asking for problems. I had problems when it was very cold out, so whatever clearance I had, probably went a way when the metal retracted. Just sand down a little edge to prevent seal and see how it functions. Please let us know.
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Old 03-23-2011, 08:53 PM #18
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That's why I brought it up. Take a look at your picture, the bumper is at the height as your sail o-ring. That's just asking for problems. I had problems when it was very cold out, so whatever clearance I had, probably went a way when the metal retracted. Just sand down a little edge to prevent seal and see how it functions. Please let us know.
Good call, I have already sanded down a small area. Will post up results after play this weekend.
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Old 03-23-2011, 09:27 PM #19
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Good call, I have already sanded down a small area. Will post up results after play this weekend.
thanks man.
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Old 03-24-2011, 08:13 AM #20
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Try these setting dwell at 10 hpr 132 and change the bolt tip to #13 and FYI the new bumper orings will be out soon I have the proto type one from billy
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Old 03-24-2011, 10:47 AM #21
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Try these setting dwell at 10 hpr 132 and change the bolt tip to #13 and FYI the new bumper orings will be out soon I have the proto type one from billy
This is good to know.
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