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Old 02-13-2011, 11:29 PM #1
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bunkers 101: setting up/teardown of sup'air pro series bunkers

the highest end of the sup'airball line of inflatable bunkers is their pro series bunkers. in addition to all of the other features it shares with its bunker siblings, the pro series bunkers have a separate chamber on the bottom of each bunker which allow you to fill the chamber with water. this allows you to set the bunkers without staking them in-perfect for fields that have turf installed, or even on grass fields as an alternative to using (and ultimately losing) stakes.

here is a short tutorial on how to properly set-up these bunkers for use on a paintball field:

1. unfold each bunker and place each individual bunker in their general, final position. for example, put all of the snake beams on one side of the field, the center piece obviously goes in the center, etc. this will reduce how far you have to drag a bunker filled with water to get it into position.



2.flip the bunker over so the bottom of the bunker is completely visible. do not leave any folds that will hinder the flow of water into the bladder.





3. remove the white cap and plug from the bladder valve.

4. begin filling the bladder with water. using a hose without a nozzle attachment is fastest. you want volumes of water, not pressure.

5. raise the valve a little bit off the ground. this will help in filling the bladder to its maximum capacity.




6. fill the bladder completely with water. you will be using about 5-15 gallons of water in each bladder, depending on the bunker. the bladder should be taking on a 'rounded' shape and should have a minimum of air inside the bladder. replace the cap and plug quickly, to reduce the amount of spilled water.





7. carefully flip over the bunker to expose the air valve. tip: the air valve is always on the same side as the water valve, and vice versa. do not 'plop' down the bunker as you flip it, or you risk blowing out the bladder. remember: water bladders are not covered under warranty.

8. fill the bunker with air as normal. FOR POSITIONING PURPOSES ONLY, you can slightly overinflate each individual bunker to make it easier to move around. once positioned correctly, remember to deflate accordingly!



do not leave bunkers over-inflated for long periods of time! overinflation is one of the causes for premature bunker failure (too much internal pressure). when using the water bladders, over-inflating the bunkers will cause them to go 'round' on the bottom, resulting in less surface area in contact with the ground. less surface area=the bunkers will get knocked around easier and get moved out of place. the ideal inflation for any bunker is to inflate it until the bottom of the bunker just begins to lift off the ground, then stop.



9. the pro series bunkers also have a handle installed to assist in positioning. many people use this handle incorrectly and inadvertently rip the handle from the bunker.



the best way to use the handle when moving bunkers is to tilt the bunker so that a maximum amount of bunker is lifted off the ground, then pull the bunker into its final position. remember: the air valves always face the nearest start gate!



10. cheats: you can 'cheat' on completely filling the snake beam bladders with water. these things get incredibly heavy once filled, and all that weight isnt necessary for a bunker that doesnt really get bumped into that much. i usually fill each bladder to about 60% capacity so i am not breaking my back trying to position the beam.

11. setup takes me 4 hours average time from start to finish, with 3 helpers.

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Old 02-13-2011, 11:37 PM #2
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Great write up man good job
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Old 02-14-2011, 12:04 AM #3
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teardown

teardown of pro series bunkers is as follows:

1. remove the water first before removing the air. pull the water plug and cap from the bladder and allow the water to escape. leave the air plug in at this time.

2. tipping the bunker over will allow you to remove more water from the bladder. pushing on the bunker will remove even more water.



3. once all (most) of the water has been removed from the bunker, remove the air plug. position the bunker in such a way that, when deflating, it will not fold over on itself and prevent air from escaping. this usually involves putting the bunker on its side. doritos, you can just leave as is.



with the NPPL carwashes, flipping them over completely will allow the bunker to fully deflate without the bunker folding over on itself.



the flaps on the valves hold back the escaping air from the bunker. i place the corner of the flap on the center of the velcro strip to keep an open passage for the air to escape.



4. once deflated, lay the bunker flat to eliminate any trapped air as we proceed to the next step.





5. if you are placing the bunkers in transport bags or just want to store them using the smallest space possible, you will need to fold them. the goal of folding bunkers is not to make a certain shape, but rather to have the valve be on the outside of all the folds, every time you make a fold. this way you can stand/sit on the bunker as you are folding to remove more air. folding the bunker with the valve on the inside of the folds will result in futile efforts to remove trapped air pockets.







and







you can also use a vacuum to suck the air out of a bunker. replace the cap after vacuuming to prevent air from rushing back in.

6. transport bags- i can fit between 8-10 bunkers in a single bag, using these methods. i can fit more if i used a vacuum to deflate, but i realized the bags became too heavy to move around. i try to keep the same shape in the same bag, and the big bunkers will get their own separate bag (for NPPL, that means 2 carwashes and the center piece). i use 6 transport bags for each field.

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Last edited by frankdatank : 02-14-2011 at 12:06 AM.
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Old 02-14-2011, 12:43 PM #4
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Wonderful thread.
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Old 02-22-2011, 07:26 PM #5
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Excellent resource, thank you for taking the time to do this.
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Old 02-22-2011, 07:31 PM #6
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excellent, but 4 hours? holy ****. And don't you wash the bunkers before putting them away? Or is this just from a uspl event where the bunkers are sold after the event?
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Old 02-22-2011, 08:44 PM #7
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Those bunkers look like they were washed, just not the bottoms.
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Old 02-23-2011, 10:08 AM #8
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Great post!


I can't wait to see the other posts he is working on.
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Old 02-23-2011, 02:03 PM #9
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This is the only field we consider. The water bladders save $thousands$$ in man hours compared to unreliable and potentially unsafe/damaging stakes.
Great "how to" thread.
We do more people than you could imagine.....this field is set up 7days a week for 39 straight weeks and still kicks arse.
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Old 02-23-2011, 11:42 PM #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MisterTip View Post
excellent, but 4 hours? holy ****.
i am usually setting up for national level tournaments, so i have to use a little more scrutiny when placing bunkers, and i have to ensure that the water bladders are completely filled so that they do not move out of place during the entire tournament weekend. setting up a field with stakes is a LOT faster; i have averaged 1.5 hours per field using stakes. and 10 helpers. the most time consuming process with the water bladders is filling them with water.

Quote:
And don't you wash the bunkers before putting them away? Or is this just from a uspl event where the bunkers are sold after the event?
these bunkers were hosed off before i packed them. there have been times where we didnt have this opportunity, and i packed up the bunkers completely caked with paint.
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Old 02-24-2011, 12:30 PM #11
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This is the only field we consider. The water bladders save $thousands$$ in man hours compared to unreliable and potentially unsafe/damaging stakes.
Great "how to" thread.
We do more people than you could imagine.....this field is set up 7days a week for 39 straight weeks and still kicks arse.
pvc pipe + sand = much faster than water bladders.
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Old 02-24-2011, 01:58 PM #12
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Quote:
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pvc pipe + sand = much faster than water bladders.
I agree with Carnagge we use the pvc pipes filled with sand, makes thing alot easier to move. My experience with water bladders is a bad one, the other fields I have played on with water bladders they leak and make a mess of the fields.
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Old 02-24-2011, 02:22 PM #13
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I secure my bunkers with PVC lay flat hose that I filled with sand.
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Old 02-24-2011, 06:58 PM #14
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PVC with sand? Anyone have a pic? I've never seen that before.....
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Old 02-24-2011, 10:12 PM #15
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I dont have a picture, but ours are between 6-12" long, depending on the bunker. 3" diameter with a cap on both ends. They fit just right in the elastic bands that come on the bunkers. Just slide them out when your going to move the bunkers.
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Old 02-25-2011, 09:40 AM #16
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pvc is no risk for injury......sure you might get a bruise...but 99.9% of the time they are completely out of the way...and none of the mess/trouble water brings.

SupAir fields leave a lot to be desired in quality. I've yet to see a field make it over 2-3 years without replacement bunkers being needed... (mini x's anyone!!)
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Old 02-25-2011, 03:44 PM #17
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Quote:
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I dont have a picture, but ours are between 6-12" long, depending on the bunker. 3" diameter with a cap on both ends. They fit just right in the elastic bands that come on the bunkers. Just slide them out when your going to move the bunkers.
That alone is enough weight to keep people from moving bunkers? Do they give a bit if someone hits hard? I may try this if I get my field up again this summer.
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Old 02-25-2011, 06:43 PM #18
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That alone is enough weight to keep people from moving bunkers? Do they give a bit if someone hits hard? I may try this if I get my field up again this summer.
the idea is that its a mess free sandbag and everyone uses sandbags so that gives you an idea of weight, they give alittle if someone hits the bunker hard cause they can roll. Risk is low cause most of the time you can tuck them under the edge or right beside the bunker
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Old 02-26-2011, 01:29 PM #19
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the idea is that its a mess free sandbag and everyone uses sandbags so that gives you an idea of weight, they give alittle if someone hits the bunker hard cause they can roll. Risk is low cause most of the time you can tuck them under the edge or right beside the bunker
I like the idea a lot to be honest. I hate spikes because they pull out in high wind and go flying into the uncut grass making them impossible to find. People constantly lose them when we change the bunker setup. Plus they cause a lot of ripping on the bungie cords. Sandbags rip all the time....I think I'm going to try this.
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Old 02-26-2011, 06:32 PM #20
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another idea if your worried about weight or high wind, is drill a hole in the side of the pvc and put an eye bolt in it, then fill with quick set concrete then you can hook bunkers to them with carabiners. its going to be alot heavier but we use them for our 50 bunker cause we have pretty high winds
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Old 03-01-2011, 02:01 PM #21
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another idea if your worried about weight or high wind, is drill a hole in the side of the pvc and put an eye bolt in it, then fill with quick set concrete then you can hook bunkers to them with carabiners. its going to be alot heavier but we use them for our 50 bunker cause we have pretty high winds
That Concrete idea makes good sense.. Heavier too..
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