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Old 11-17-2003, 10:24 AM #22
-=DFOX=-
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Could'nt hurt, use some of that super spray Eclipse recommends, good stuff. The smoother the better with anything paintball gun related.
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Old 11-17-2003, 10:32 AM #23
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True, I'm just worried about accidentally taking too much off then having the sear wobble. I've looked around for the Wurths spray and couldn't find any. I've heard you can use motorcycle chain lubricant instead though... still gotta pick up some of that.
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Old 11-17-2003, 11:11 AM #24
Drewba13
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I actually used a tiny bit of dow 33 on my sear, goes very smooth. It needs to be cleaned regularly though, if you take any hits near you gun, it can gum up the sear pin after awhile.

-i put in a tysonic last night, put 3000 shots on my frame and only the a single tick came off the first bar...SON was on 4 the entire time too.

DFOX-when are you coming out with those apex body kits?
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Old 11-17-2003, 12:33 PM #25
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Quote:
Originally posted by Drewba13
DFOX-when are you coming out with those apex body kits?
I dunno, things are not looking good. I need to get my own mill.
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Old 11-17-2003, 04:46 PM #26
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fallen angel- your dad is absolutely right about the cap. it won't go immediately. and can probably withstand spikes up to 20v, but you do not want to run 10v or more into it. it will decrease in capacity and crap out. if a capacitor is truly going to last, the standard procedure is to use one that is rated for twice what your feeding it. a 16 v would be the next step up. it would last alot longer and withstand higher voltages.

the e-blade cap will be fine. just buy a decent charger with your rechargeables. I'm sure this is stuff your dad already told you.

the sear thing sounds like they don't check the workmanship on the parts very closely. friction can eat away the power that a solenoid is trying to provide. this means as the batt voltage drops, the sear no longer axctuates, but the smc solenoid recocks the gun. super annoting when your playing and it starts loading a bunch of balls in the breech and doesn't fire.

I can see it probably costs $70 in parts to make an e-blade frame. but the labor of putting it together is probably more expensive by far. I make my own electro-cockers, and the parts don't cost that much, but I would have to charge $400 bucks to make one for somebody else to make it worth the time.

as time goes on, the market will be flooded with electro-cockers and the price will come down.
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Old 11-17-2003, 04:57 PM #27
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Quote:
Originally posted by Drewba13
-i put in a tysonic last night, put 3000 shots on my frame and only the a single tick came off the first bar...SON was on 4 the entire time too.
I se a lot of people say things like that. Unfortunately, when using a rechargable battery, its hard to tell how much life it has left. With normal alkalines, the EBlade frame will determine the amount of charge left by it's voltage. The less voltage, the less battery life. NiMH on the other hand, put out close to the same voltage throughout their entire life and drop quickly at the end. So it's rather hard to determine exactly what kind of charge the battery really has left using this method.
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Old 11-17-2003, 05:30 PM #28
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FallenAngel:
A couple of months ago I bought some Engergizer Rechargable batteries. They are NiMhd Batteries. I put one that was charged for 12 hours and the charger said it was done charging, but my eblade show it had only 1/2 bars on it. Is this normal and how are these batteries?

Thanks
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Old 11-17-2003, 06:03 PM #29
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Well, that's the problem with Energizer rechargables. I was recently at a Menards yesterday and while I was leaving I decided to check out their batteries. Although I wasn't planning on buying it, I picked up the Energizer Rechargable and looked at the package in the lower right corner. It says 7.4v @ 150mah. So, the most charge you're probably going to get out of it is 7.4v, which isn't a whole lot to run the frame on, and at 150mah, you're probably not going to be able to run it for very long either.

Most commercially available 9v batteries are either 7.4v or 8.2v. You may want to check out www.thomas-distributions.com and order PowerEx or Tysonic batteries from them. I've heard you can use the Spyder Java batteries as well, as those are rated at 9.6v as well.
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If you want to set off and go develop some grand new thing, you don't need millions of dollars of capitalization. You need enough pizza and Diet Coke to stick in your refrigerator, a cheap PC to work on, and the dedication to go through with it. We slept on floors. We waded across rivers. -John Carmack

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Old 11-17-2003, 08:57 PM #30
NiSSin
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würths oil
http://www.goodspeedmotoring.com/sub...nd%20Adhesives
some good grease to help you with the trigger pin stick is matrix muck. i threw some of that on my pin and trigger and the pin hole because it was starting to rust?!, but some muck on it solved it right quick and now it slides like a, well yea it slides really easy.
if i had some würths i would use that tho. that stuff is the ****.
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Old 11-17-2003, 09:42 PM #31
Drewba13
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Quote:
Originally posted by FallNAngel
Most commercially available 9v batteries are either 7.4v or 8.2v. You may want to check out www.thomas-distributions.com and order PowerEx or Tysonic batteries from them. I've heard you can use the Spyder Java batteries as well, as those are rated at 9.6v as well.
thats a busted link Falln, its thomas-distributing.com

Energizers are crap, my sear won't even drop the hammer when i use the one i have. I hear good things about the JAVA plainview's though but Tysonics are still cheaper.
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Old 11-17-2003, 09:45 PM #32
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Bah, I can never remember which it is.
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If you want to set off and go develop some grand new thing, you don't need millions of dollars of capitalization. You need enough pizza and Diet Coke to stick in your refrigerator, a cheap PC to work on, and the dedication to go through with it. We slept on floors. We waded across rivers. -John Carmack

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Old 01-06-2004, 11:16 PM #33
CraZyCockerMAN
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Heres something 4 u, i have energizer max, i can get abou 3000 shots till it starts sayin low, but then i can get another 6000 while its @ low. and then some
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