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Old 02-16-2011, 12:27 PM #43
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Sorry. Was at school and in a rush. Here:


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It seems similar. I'm having trouble finding "QuickSteel" in a store around here. I'm really thinking I'm just gonna tape it and maybe pick up a 4b kit if they're still available. I'm kind of on the fence about selling my Quest, sort of looking to trade it.

Last edited by StealingYerMail : 02-16-2011 at 12:32 PM.
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Old 02-16-2011, 12:39 PM #44
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yep that could work
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Old 02-16-2011, 04:33 PM #45
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Interesting. I stuck with the tape for now.

As for the drilling, I'm assuming you didn't use a regular power drill. Do you know what size bit you actually used?
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Old 02-16-2011, 04:37 PM #46
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you can use a dremel with a press aditament
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Old 02-17-2011, 02:48 PM #47
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juit,

Thanks for this thread. I chrono'd at ~285, did the tape mod until I was back at 285, then JB welded a pen cap to my bolt guide. Today I chrono'd at 295 and brought it back down to 285. This is awesome.

My friend has a dremel and the press and is familiar with using it... I plan on having him drill my reg cap/body sometime soon. I'm also going to pick up that Fast Steel tomorrow and replace the tape.

Thanks.

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Old 02-17-2011, 02:59 PM #48
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keep us posted! Im glad it helped,
I want to do other mod on the back cap but untill I get a new quest
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Old 02-17-2011, 03:05 PM #49
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What were you going to do?
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Old 02-21-2011, 09:24 PM #50
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making a big volume HP chamber
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Old 03-04-2011, 10:49 PM #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uziel Gal View Post
On the assumption that some of that air does escape slowly around the adjuster, then as piston moves forwards, it will create a vacuum behind it, impeding it's forward movement, as the adjuster screw will again slow the flow of air back in to the LPR.

Uziel Gal.

What you said here I know as fact. But it makes me think... could the theory of "balanced valve" be applied and tuned in this area (HPR and LPR) to actually improve consistency in velocity?


To the others.. Lawl. A question. So basically you're drilling into the spring chamber. Thats the key to not screwing anything up right?
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Old 03-05-2011, 09:38 AM #52
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I'm sure you could incorporate a balanced valve design in to the reg, or a balanced piston - which if set up correctly, should give finer adjustment around the LPRs recommended operating pressure. Having said that, there was a habit a while back amongst Quest owners to get the LPR pressure as low as possible, so people may want to retain the full adjustment range of the LPR.

Whether these things could easily be incorporated as a drop in update, or would need a full re-design of the reg from the ground up is a different matter.

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Old 04-27-2011, 02:17 PM #53
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I have a digi-camo dipped quest... just got it fixed last night. Had to relube the noid and swap in a few orings. So stoked there! Hadn't bothered with it for a while, really happy to have it working again.

I like the sound of the reg mod and the benefits it provides, but I have serious reservations about drilling into a gun with a rare finish.

So you think drilling a tiny hole into the center of the HPR adjuster screw would accomplish the same feat without risking the guns rare finish? Same case with the LPR?
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Old 04-27-2011, 02:40 PM #54
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In principle, yes, this would work. However, you have the disk that supports the spring in between the adjustment screw and the piston chamber, and this would prevent air from exiting, so you would need to drill a hole in the centre of the disk as well.
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Old 04-27-2011, 05:34 PM #55
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Hmm didn't take that into account. Just trying to keep from drilling into a non-replaceable rare bit... I think for now, I'm just going to play with the beast and be happy its back. Maybe try to nab a second Quest to mod and build up. Leave the camo all stock because its such a nice piece.

I did try to get the stock back bored for inserts and the :tard: I commissioned did it crooked, so eh I might go forward with modding. We'll see...
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Old 07-31-2011, 04:52 AM #56
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Quote:
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Ok Im a timmy poppet guy but I love how quest shoot for a spool

so here are some of the Mods I made for my quest

1st I drilled the HPR reg bottom cap with the smallest metal drill bit I could found on home depot
screw the cap all the way
mark with a sharpie
unscrew it
always drill in the spring section


2nd I drilled the LPR with the same above


3rth I used a plastic cap you can use a standard pen cap, I used a dental syringe cap and didnt have to cut anything
meassure it and check if it dosent goes further than the bolt tip
drill a hole on the tip and fill it with JB WELD
then I Buff the tip of the bolt guide and use JB WELD to join them together



4rth I cut some air hose and then I start adding inserts untill my FPS start to drop


or

you can get this at walmart for 5 bucks

I cleaned with acetone the bolt pin
leave the o rings
mix a small amount of paste and do the cones near the orings
after it cured for 3 minutes "semi firm" take out the orings and clean the groove
mix a small some more and add in the middle
let it stay for 15 minutes
lube o rings and chorno
if U add too much just sand from the middle
if it chrono HI you can clean with acetone the middle and add some more
this is the final result after sanding till got the correct FPS



the draw back is that I cant use a GM bolt because I tune it to a stock bolt

so if U tune it to a GM bolt prolly you will need to add
if tuned to a stock bolt and want to use a GM you will need to sand till you get the FPS



what do I get from this?

well the holes boost the recharge rate and the stock reg can go head to head with a AKA or a 360 reg

The LPR gauge pin will only move 15 PSI of recharge

FPS are tighter

you can go lower LPR cause its recharging faster

Im got a extra pod than than hose mod prolly same shots like the 4b new bolt , I think because you fine tune it with the sand paper

the hose mod is better than the tape mode because it never peel off

the no rollback tip will give you a 10 FPS boost & the paintball wont rollback to the bolt hole

I hope this helps and one day goes a sticky
umm on the pen cap mod, u could also buy the rsf bolt from critical paintball
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Old 07-31-2011, 05:53 AM #57
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I believe the whole point of the thread was modifications that could be made at home, without actually buying aftermarket Quest parts. In terms of having an anti roll back modification on the pin, rather than a foamie on the bolt face, the pin supplied with the Thin Air Sports 4B bolt kit would actually be more like the above modification than the RSF bolt would.
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Old 07-31-2011, 07:19 AM #58
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gotta love the noob "quote" D.A.

this mod would cost you 5 bucks, compared to a RSF bolt its a nice buck deal

I got this idea from the ION D.W. bolt

nxt time use the post a quick reply without pics

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Old 08-02-2011, 12:05 AM #59
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Juit - totally just thought of this. In the bolt pin the air is routed through the pin and into the chamber. You should make a mod where a gauge can be added so that you can see what the input pressure is...sorta like the DP guns. Might be useful to the people who like to fine tune. Actually, moving the lpr gauge back there would be great, but the plumbing won't work right without a massive redesign. Just a thought.
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Old 08-02-2011, 01:13 AM #60
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If the gauge were thread locked securely in place, it could also be used as a knob to grasp, turning a normal pin in to a snatch pin.
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Old 08-02-2011, 04:07 AM #61
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I was doing a tester like in victorys but sold my quest hehehehe Ill try to make one once I get another one in my hands
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Old 08-28-2011, 04:14 AM #62
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Youre like the bob vila of paintball.
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Old 04-16-2012, 01:01 AM #63
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how r the mods done with a critical bolt and the affects with that?
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