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View Poll Results: How should I paint this gun?
Tactical black - solid black 22 37.93%
AmStripe - Tiger stripe green & matte black 36 62.07%
Voters: 58. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 10-30-2010, 11:43 PM #1
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TigerShark --> SharkSniper

This story starts around 5 years ago when I was playing woods ball with a church group and was given a dirty, beat up tigershark. I mainly play speedball but at the time I had built a custom cocker pump to use in the woods. One of the guys I was playing with picked up a pair of tigersharks for cheap at a garage sale. He only wanted the nice, clean one and gave me the other one. I cleaned it up and added a new power tube and seals. Gun shot just fine after that.
From there I decided to make it into a bolt action gun. I removed the pump handle and added a 16" spyder barrel I had laying around from my first gun. The gun is not Spyder threaded but it's close enough. I added nail polish detents in the barrel to stop roll outs. I use a piece of the pump handle arms to cover the left hand side slot. I was looking for a pump handle and I wanted one that would thread into the bolt so it was removable to travel. I had a stock shocker bolt guide sitting around and though it would work. I cut the bolt guide down to the size I wanted. Luckily the part I cut into was already hollowed out and was easy to tap. I tapped the cut end of the bolt guide, then screwed a screw into it and cut the head off of screw. Once cut to the right length the handle screwed in perfectly. I wrapped the handle in black athletic tape for grip and to cover the silver color. Since I was making this as a sniper I wanted stock class feeds. I made my own out of some 3/4" PVC pipe and a 90* elbow. I made two different ones, 1 that holds 10rds and 15rds. I found these black rubber ends around my garage and cut them into quick feeds so a 10rd tube can be loaded into them. I bought a stock butt end for a 9 oz tank that I already had. The last thing I added was a 30mm red dot sight. The rail on a TigerShark is a 3/8" dove tail but I just slid the sight over the rail and tightened it down. It held but wasn't on the rail since it is a weaver size rail mounting.
edit: forgot to add that I made a mock silencer for the gun too. I used a black plastic bat for the tube part, old school plastic pod lids for ends and packed it with thin layers of foam. It did end up reducing the noise of the gun but was just for looks.
This was the end of stage 1. I did these mods and used the gun in this setup a couple of times in the woods about 5 years ago, the same summer I received the gun.
How it currently sits:




With mock silencer

10rd stock feed (I know it's ****ty PVC and spray paint but its for being dragged through the brush on a free gun)

All packed up in my gun case, unzip and put together my rifle

I also have a 12 gram changer that I can use for a shorter version of the gun.

Recently I've been too busy and too poor to play speedball anymore after 4 years of college and playing/running the school team. I was looking at building another custom cocker sniper or buying a T9/T9.1 but both options were a lot of money. After not wanting to spend the money I decided I could do something with my old TigerShark that's been laying around in it's case for years.

Here is my new plan:
Mod to shoot First Strike rounds
some kind of rotating breach
Properly mount the red dot sight
dove tail to weaver adapter
Add bipod
barrel mounted, folding bipod
New mock silencer
not a big concern but it completes the over all look of the gun. I will probably make it functional since the barrel is only ported at the end it will be easy to make it quieter.
Body Work
smooth body - removed the flying balls and wording, removed the word "Tigershark" from the frame. I plan on properly filling and sealing the left hand side cocking slot with black plastic so it looks stock. I also want to fill in the rail sides that have square cuts.
I wrapped the barrel in the black athletic tape as the handle to remove the shine from the gloss black it is.
Polished Internals
fully custom polished internals and tuned to 295fps
Duracoat
I want to paint the entire gun and barrel with matte black Duracoat to give everything a nice even finish.

I have started these plans but haven't done too much. I wanted to make this thread to track the process and show everybody else what I'm doing.
I need to order some first strike rounds and have them in hand before I start modding the breech. I will be doing more of the body work soon and hope to have the left side sealed up very soon. I plan on sanding to smooth so you can't tell its there.
I will add pics when I take them. I'll try to grab some before too much changes.
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Old 10-31-2010, 01:59 AM #2
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I decided to order the rail adapter and bipod so I will have those by the end of next week.
I will be paint/coating basically everything you see with Tactical Black from Duracoat with an airbrush. The 9oz's valve and tank will both be coated. The air tank receiver at the back of the gun will be coated as well. I will full prep all surfaces before painting. All metal will be sanded down for painting.

Other ideas that I'm throwing around:
I want to use Dynamat inside my new silencer, it's sound deadening material so it should do a good job reducing the noise. The only noise of the gun is out the barrel so a silencer should be effective. My new silencer will start right before the flash suppressor and be around 6" long. I still need to look into better ways to make this.
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Old 10-31-2010, 08:52 AM #3
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looks clean. very nice.
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Old 10-31-2010, 09:57 AM #4
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Thanks, it still have a long way to go but it's a fun project.

The only thing I don't have figured out is what size springs will fit this gun. I think Phantom springs will work but I'm not sure. Last time I chrono'd the gun it was shooting around 250-260ish I think.
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Old 10-31-2010, 11:27 AM #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjones1213 View Post
Thanks, it still have a long way to go but it's a fun project.

The only thing I don't have figured out is what size springs will fit this gun. I think Phantom springs will work but I'm not sure. Last time I chrono'd the gun it was shooting around 250-260ish I think.
Easier trick and quicker too.

Get washers that are almost big enough to fit on the power tube. If the internal diameter of the washers is too small use a drill and pair of vice grips (to get a good hold on it) and drill them to fit on the powertube. This will make the spring tighter and give you a higher fps. I can't get you any pictures seeing as how I'm in Iraq but it works. I "supped" up my buddies tiger shark so he could play with it. Plus with the washer idea you can adjust your fps pretty easy as well. I'm pretty sure phantom springs work as well. I think I threw one in his as well.


Are you a left handed person? I just noticed the "bolt" for the bolt action is on the right side. Might be easier to shoot if its on the left.
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Old 10-31-2010, 11:31 AM #6
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I'm right handed and wanted to make it like a bolt action rifle. Having it on the right side makes is slower to shoot but it's designed to be a sniper.

I've heard of the washer trick and knew I can do that but I'd rather have a spring to be more stable/consistent.
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Old 10-31-2010, 02:21 PM #7
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I got a little work done today, picked up some plastic welding sticks and used my soldering iron to fill in the area around the rail. I used ABS plastic and it's white so that's the reason for the strange color. I only filled and trimmed a little off of it so far. Tonight I will sand down the sides so it's completely smooth.
Pics:



If I work on the gun tonight I'm going to cut the insert for the cocking bolt slot and seal that in as well.
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Old 10-31-2010, 04:15 PM #8
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You could JBweld or weld the washers together. I'm sure you know they make left handed bolt actions too.

Either way cool little project ya got going.
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Old 10-31-2010, 04:38 PM #9
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Thanks and yes I know they make left handed bolt action guns but I'm right handed.
Thanks for the idea for the washer. I may use washers if I can't get a spring that will fit.
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Old 10-31-2010, 10:47 PM #10
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Got a bunch of work done.
Sanded down the rail sides.

Cut a piece of the pump handle down to fit

Filled and blended the piece in

Sanded down

And some more


I threw a quick layer of spray paint primer on the body but most of it will be sanded off. I'm just using it to smooth it out a little.
I need to pick up more 400 grit sand paper and some 600 grit for removing the primer and smoothing everything out.

edit: While thinking about the gun I decided to change the name. I'm leaving the shark on the side of the trigger frame and I decided Shark Sniper would be a better name than Tiger Sniper.
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Old 11-01-2010, 07:24 AM #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjones1213 View Post
Got a bunch of work done.
Sanded down the rail sides.

Cut a piece of the pump handle down to fit

Filled and blended the piece in

Sanded down

And some more


I threw a quick layer of spray paint primer on the body but most of it will be sanded off. I'm just using it to smooth it out a little.
I need to pick up more 400 grit sand paper and some 600 grit for removing the primer and smoothing everything out.

edit: While thinking about the gun I decided to change the name. I'm leaving the shark on the side of the trigger frame and I decided Shark Sniper would be a better name than Tiger Sniper.
use a primer of a different color so when you are sanding you can see the high and low spots. like a guide coat for autobody work.
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Old 11-01-2010, 09:00 AM #12
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That's the plan, the primer is gray so I should be able to see any bad spots.
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Old 11-01-2010, 10:10 AM #13
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I just took a minute this morning to check out the body and did a little light sanding. I wet sanded the body with used 400 grit paper I had sitting on my work bench.
Here is how it turned out:


The primer covered any signs that there is body work which is what I was hoping for. Once I get more sand paper I'm going to continue to sand the body. I did paint the gun unevenly so some parts have very little primer and some have more but I'm not going to add any more. I think the body is turning out very nice and once fully sanded it should look good. Only thing I haven't done is clean up the torn up area in the bolt slot.
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Old 11-01-2010, 01:22 PM #14
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After being bored doing hw and sitting in class for a while I've been thinking about this gun and was wondering what people thought about the paint job the gun will receive.
My initial plan was to use Tactical Black and have it be a solid color but most scenario guns and gear are camo. I know that solid black would be able to be sighted more easily than camo but I'm not sure by how much.
I'm going to add a poll to see what people think on the color scheme. Please post your comments, advise and what camo pattern you would suggest. I live in Michigan and would do some type of woods camo. I'll have to check out Duracoat's website to see what camo kits they offer. Right now I'm thinking of doing a basic 2 or 3 color camo.

Here is the only camo pattern they offer that I like.
It's only 2 colors which is what I want. The paint only is not too expensive but I don't want to spend $75 on the kit.

Here is a few examples of guns with this pattern:
http://www.hardcorpsweaponry.com/res...Sten+after.JPG
http://www.precisioncoatsandgunworks...266974.jpg?383

I like the first gun because it has mainly one color with a few accent stripes but I would have the black as the base color with green stripes.
I like the second gun because it has only accent camo parts.
Any input would be great and I'm thinking camo would be the way to go.
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Old 11-01-2010, 06:13 PM #15
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I assembled the gun and shot 20 rounds through the gun. The gun shot a lot harder than I remember but I was using a 12 gram instead of the 9oz tank so that might be why. The gun shot very accurate for using really old ****ty paint, better than I remember. Once it's stable with the tank/stock and bipod it will be a beast.
Turns out the cover piece was too think and popped out.


I fixed this, resanded the body and threw on another coat of primer. I should have time to get 400 grit sand paper and work on the body Wednesday.

Does anybody know of a way to feed FS rounds into a gun efficiently?
I may just remove the feedneck and make it breech load only.
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Old 11-01-2010, 11:39 PM #16
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Got a bunch more work done tonight. I have the body all finished, wet sanded to 400 grit. I just need to let it completely dry then a solid layer of primer and sand that down a little.
I started work on the silencer. I took some ideas from online and put them together into mine. I drilled a ton of holes in a piece of 3/4" PVC pipe and wrapped the pipe in 0000 steel wool. I didn't feel like reinventing the wheel so I used one of the end caps and the tube from my original silencer. The steel wool is wrapped thick enough that it fits snug into the black tube. I talked through the tube and the sound difference is very noticeable. I am boring out the PVC pipe to fit the end of the barrel. Once that is done I will be able to attach the other end cap.
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Old 11-02-2010, 10:47 PM #17
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I ordered a box of 100 first strike rounds so I will be able to modify the breech to fit them, still haven't decided on a feeding system.

I put another coat of primer on the gun tonight and will wet sand it down tomorrow. I will also continue to work on the silencer tomorrow.

There's been over 400 people looking at this thread yet there's no post. Does anybody have any input?
Nobody is ever voting in the poll, thanks to those who did.

I also wanted to ask, do people think that I should get a real scope?
I know with First Strike rounds people are shooting up to 100 yards accurately and I would want some magnification at that distance. I already have the red dot so I will use that for now but I'm just thinking for the future. I guess it would depend on the field and if there was going to be shots at that distance.
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Old 11-03-2010, 04:46 PM #18
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I finished wet sanding the body and am very happy with it. I will finish all body mods, mainly the feed neck/breech.
I put a layer of primer on the silencer outer tube last night, I also wet sanded that as well. The outer tube has one end cap attached so far. I am going to continue boring out the silencer inner tube. Once complete I will attach it to the outer tube and seal on the other end cap.

I should receive my rail adapter tomorrow, the online shipping info said it was being delivered today but I didn't receive it. The bipod I ordered is back-ordered and will be shipped in 7-10 business days so that's the only delay.

I just received my box of 100 First Strike rounds from UPS about 5 minutes ago so now I can start working on the breech and feeding system. I still need ideas on how to feed FS rounds into a gun reliable.

I will take pics of the body and silencer to post up later on.
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Old 11-03-2010, 07:40 PM #19
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I hacked the feedneck off and slighty squared the opening so the FS rounds feed easy.


Nice and smooth.
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Old 11-04-2010, 12:19 AM #20
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Body is completely finished, in primer waiting to be sanded down. I need to pick up some 600 or 800 grit to finish sand the primer.
Please note: the body is not sanded at all so it's still rough from the ****ty spray paint.
Right side.

Left side.


I finished boring out the inner silencer tube and drilled a few more ports in it.
I also finished making the silencer itself. I melted both end caps to the outer tube with the inner tube, wrapped in the steel wool, inside already. I then used some clear epoxy to seal/connect the inner tube to the end caps.

This is the inner tube on the barrel, please note it is not bored out all the way and fits all the way down to the black tape now.


Close up of porting.

Side view of the silencer, primed then sanded. I will prime and sand again once it's finished.

Inside view of silencer, lots and lots of porting.

Epoxied end that the barrel fits into.

Business end, not epoxied yet. It is epoxied now and will be sitting over night along with the other end.


My ammo box

What's inside - 13 FS rounds fit in a 10rd tube. 99 shown, I shot 1.
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Old 11-05-2010, 10:30 PM #21
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Been busy with work but did put the gun together to see how everything looked how it is. I didn't have the rail adapter or red dot on or by the gun when taking these pics.

Close up of body/breech

There's a small spot under the breech that I want to fix still. The body is still un-sanded so the primer is a little thick and not as smooth as it will be.
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