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Old 10-18-2010, 03:22 PM #22
evil snowman
 
 
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can anyone show me where the the barbs and hoses would be for setting up in a timmy? i know in the humphrey noids the holes are numbered.
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Old 10-19-2010, 07:50 PM #23
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IIRC there's a diagram on the side of those MAC solenoids that shows you which ports do what. I'm pretty sure mine had the same layout as a humphrey.
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Old 10-24-2010, 10:06 PM #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evil snowman View Post
can anyone show me where the the barbs and hoses would be for setting up in a timmy? i know in the humphrey noids the holes are numbered.
shows you right on the noid

Last edited by the EPIC /B/TARD1337 : 11-09-2010 at 07:14 PM. Reason: my mistake
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Old 10-25-2010, 12:55 PM #25
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nice. thank you.
to anyone using these noids with the old 2k2 boards, what pressures and dwell are you running?
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Old 10-26-2010, 12:46 AM #26
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I have a was solenoid and a 43,which are the same!

I have one in my ripper 1 with a tadao led board with a setting of 8 dwell and works great.
I have the 43 on my stormtrooper dragon with a virtue led board with 9 dwell setting and also works great.
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Old 11-04-2010, 03:03 PM #27
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was about to solder a connector to the mac noid, but both wires are black with no markings. my connector has red and black wires(same as humphrey). how do i figure out which wire connect to the mac noid with?
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Old 11-04-2010, 05:45 PM #28
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shows you right on the noid
this is a mac 33 24 volt man!
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Old 11-04-2010, 07:02 PM #29
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It really doesn't matter, the only time it does is when there are other components (like a diode) down line of the connector or a magnet that interacts with the coil. IIRC the MAC noids don't have anything other than a coil.
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Old 11-08-2010, 07:17 AM #30
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I just got one of these Noids the other day, haven't gotten air through it yet as I'm still waiting for a few parts, but doing a few dry shots (I know it's not good for the noid..) it was quite a bit faster then I anticipated. The draw is a bit higher then the SOB board can supply reliably (outputs only about 800Mah, compared to the 970 this solenoid requires). Modifying the board to supply a higher current by changing the voltage regulator or bypass the on board power by cutting the original V-reg trace and putting a new PSU setup in place, I was able to keep a constant 1A output, or 5W. Once I get the parts I will air it up and post some before and after PSU mod to see how much faster the noid can cycle now that it isint starved for power, and in the end should result in lowered dwell times as there is more of a steady current going to it.

BTW, this is also part of a battery mod, I replaced the stock battery with a 7.4V 990MaH LiPo RC battery, giving me about 20000 shots with a spyder
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Old 11-08-2010, 12:26 PM #31
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You should post a tutorial for those of us who can solder and follow directions :-)
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Old 11-08-2010, 02:15 PM #32
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You should post a tutorial for those of us who can solder and follow directions :-)
Once I get all the parts, and get revise the PSU, see if I can't get it smaller, and also add short circuit prevention.. Problem is though, this will work on all boards, but brains are going to be needed to know what trace(s) to cut as there are many many boards out there..

I'll post one up for a 5V output and 9V (Same thing on both, just need to change the LM for 9V version and different capacitors.)

Currently I have a Spyder Virtue Board as the heart of a Spimmy project I am working on, bringing me to the point of making a freaking power supply... haha

Last edited by Jeb101 : 11-08-2010 at 02:30 PM. Reason: Keep an eye on Voided section
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Old 11-08-2010, 11:27 PM #33
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Cycling the solenoid without air isn't any worse for it than cycling it with air. It actually doesn't wear as many internal parts when there's no air.
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Old 11-09-2010, 07:38 PM #34
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hey can any one tell me if those was noids will work trouble free with a was board from a nme. ty
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Old 11-09-2010, 07:42 PM #35
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Wow! I didn't know anyone would go so in depth.. :d

Glad those who picked some up from me are making use of them
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Old 11-09-2010, 08:17 PM #36
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Sorry, I have to.

Any noticeable difference? Other than running different dwells (I can't feel the difference in .2ms dwell change), is there any benefit to sticking one of these in your timmy? Like longevity/life or speeds?

I feel like its fixing whats not broken.
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Old 11-09-2010, 11:19 PM #37
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They are capable of much higher cycles per second over the stock noid.
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Old 11-10-2010, 07:34 AM #38
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They are also much better solenoids, faster, and better build quality... They do require about 1W more then the Humphrey node they come with stock, but most boards should be able to run them, might just need to up the dwell if you can't provide enough current to make it cycle properly..

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Old 11-10-2010, 01:01 PM #39
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sooo are they a direct match for gen 4 timmys also then as far as the barbs and hoses go?
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Old 11-10-2010, 01:04 PM #40
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sooo are they a direct match for gen 4 timmys as well then as far as the barbs and hoses go?
nop U will need to mod the grip frame a little, but they work great
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Old 11-10-2010, 04:18 PM #41
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Quote:
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They are also much better solenoids, faster, and better build quality... They do require about 1W more then the Humphrey node they come with stock, but most boards should be able to run them, might just need to up the dwell if you can't provide enough current to make it cycle properly..

Cheers,
JB
The stock Humphrey Alias solenoid requires .55 watts. These take 4.7. That's a lot more than a 1 watt diff...
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Old 11-10-2010, 04:19 PM #42
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hey can any one tell me if those was noids will work trouble free with a was board from a nme. ty
No, they don't I have three NMEs all with the stock WAS board. I bought several of these solenoids and they will not work with the stock NME WAS board.
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