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Old 07-10-2011, 10:17 PM #64
xmc1146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCM killa View Post
I REALLY wish he would take that video down.

Don't use just straight baby oil. Buy a proper lube made for paintball guns (monkey poo, slick honey, techt gun sav, lurker lube, etc) and if you really think it's too thick, mix in a few drop of Gold Cup oil, or something similar.

Don't listen to "that guy" like he's god.
haha, little kids worship "that guy".
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Old 07-11-2011, 12:22 AM #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zach Evatt View Post
the lube that comes with the gun is too thick get baby oil and use that for lube on your bolt
no

dont ever listen to that stupid tech pb idiot.


WE know exactly what we are talking about when it comes to teching the g3/g4. Just like spencer said, use a good quality lube (lurker, monkey poo, dye lube) on the bolt orings, go light on the backcap stem oring. Then use dow55 on all the non moving orings (backcap oring, reg orings, asa oring)

then finally use the same lube you use on the bolt but with a VERY SMALL touch of planet eclipse gun oil (very little amount, if anything you dont really need to use any of it but i usually do without any ill effects.. but its a very very small amount just used to thin the lurker lube out a little bit)
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Old 07-11-2011, 12:35 AM #66
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Mike is a genius, y'all don't hate on him.
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Old 07-11-2011, 12:39 AM #67
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no, hes an idiot some of the time. and when he says to put OIL ON YOUR G4 hes wrong

he effectively leads people to **** up their guns and they think they did it right and then they ***** about how ****TY DP guns are because they dont work even though they lubed it right cuz mike from ****TY PB told them to use oil.

i work with at least 4 g3/specr/ g4 every weekend at the field and they all work 100% everytime. i use nothing but lurker lube and generic dow55. all have the updated reg parts as well with no issues from the reg.
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Old 07-11-2011, 12:45 AM #68
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I've had 2 dp's, getting 2 more, and tech'd my buds. Never listened to him and I only use marmalade. All shoot perfect.
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Old 07-11-2011, 12:47 AM #69
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just dont listen to mike when he talks about dp gats.

he can give good playing tips every once and a while but i stopped paying attention when he said to use baby oil on his spec r.
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Old 07-11-2011, 12:52 AM #70
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Mike for a good part of the time is an idiot.. a lot of the playing tips he gives are garbage, a lot of his gun care tips are very wrong and misleading.. he has some good points and reviews here and there but for the most part he talks out of his ***... he bought his toddler daughter a CSL..... -____- and it just ends up in her toy box as he's mentioned..... that doesnt sound like a very smart man to me..
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Old 08-04-2011, 03:24 PM #71
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Lightbulb

Thank ya a bunches!
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Old 08-22-2011, 10:13 PM #72
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thread updated, see second post
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Old 08-24-2011, 08:29 PM #73
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how do you get the last o ring out the g4.
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Old 08-24-2011, 11:19 PM #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mac6993 View Post
how do you get the last o ring out the g4.
rear most (backcap side) or frontmost ( barrel side) ?

best bet is a dental pick
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Old 08-25-2011, 01:26 AM #75
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I used a dental pick in conjunction with a pair of tweezers (I am very fussy and did not want to put even the smallest mark on the G4).
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Old 08-25-2011, 04:58 PM #76
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Very nice help guide! We deal with several G4's a week that need relubed. We've found so far each G4 can be picky about its lube. We have 4 greases in the shop, Sleek, Slick Honey, Marmalade, and Hater sauce, and sometimes we will get a gun that will only work with one of the 4 lubes, and the other three cause bolt stick. The fun part is its not even consistent about which lube is the best. At the same time some of the guns will work with 2 or three of the lubes, and some will work great with all four.

I figured I'd share to give people a heads up that if this guide doesn't get the gun fixed, grab another lube and try again!

PS- we also had a gun 2 months ago that stopped shooting because this kid used baby oil in it. All the seals were ruined throughout the gun
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Old 08-25-2011, 06:20 PM #77
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Alright I need HELP!

I have a G4 I bought used. The guy said he only owned it for a "couple of months" so who knows what that means. I am having a lot of issues with it that seem like they may be separate problems.

The gun seemed to be working fine. I used it a couple days and it was shooting well. No bolt stick. When I put my ear to the front of the gun where the barrel screws in I can hear something. I thought it was leaking air but the gun shot fine so I dont know. I didnt notice abnormal air useage but I had just got the gun so maybe I didnt notice. I told myself that its probably like holding your ear up to a sea shell. But I still dont know if thats a problem.

Then after using the gun for a total of about 6 days I notice I had air leaking out of the small hole in my reg. I took apart the reg and the o-rings all looked ok(no cuts) but I did notice some small dibris in the lower part of the reg. I cleaned it out, lubed it up (lurker lube) and it was fine. It sat for a week and I inspected my gear before I played the following weekend. It was leaking air out of the small hole again! I repeated my previous procedure and it worked but then it started to leak again as I was playing. It got worse throughout the day. So I ordered a DP G4 o-ring kit, replaced the two o-rings in the reg, lubed them and its been fine for a week and lasted through a few hours of play last weekend. So, I think that problem is solved.

Now, I think my back cap is leaking air. I screwed in my tank and let it sit for a while today because I was playing with it. I went back to the gun after letting it sit for a couple hours and noticed my tank had went down around 300psi (Im guessing). So I said what the heck is going on. I made a bunch of suds using dishsoap and put the suds on all the points on the gun that could leak. Im sure some of you have done this test before. When you put soap suds on a joint that is leaking air, the air will "kill" all the suds quickly. If there is no leak then the suds just sit there. So I did that and the gun was leak free except for the back cap. It looks like I have air leaking around the back cap.

Ok so question number 1, sorry this is probably going to be a long post :/. Do you guys have one or two o-rings on your back cap? On the schematic it shows two, a #9 and a #11, I only have a #9. When I added a 21.95 x 1.78 o-ring the leak only got worse.

So then I put teflon tape on the threads of the back cap and let it sit, with my tank connected, for about an hour and a half. As soon as I connected my tank I was pretty sure I heard air around the back cap but to be sure I left it. Sure enough it was still leaking.

To add another issue, I bought a Techt bolt and its doing the same thing. I finally had a chance to install it today and its leaking just like the stock system. Plus I think the bolt is sticking because the gun wasnt shooting right.

I know thats quite the novel I just wrote but PLEASE HELP!
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Old 08-25-2011, 07:19 PM #78
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Hey man I had the same problem with my back cap on th G4 but after I replaced #10 and #11, and lubed the orings with hater sauce the problem was resolved.

I had a question though, you said you replaced #9, and that is actually a rubber bumper and not an oring, was that a mistake? The only two orings on the back are: 013.02 and 021.95 . 01.78

Also sometimes when you hold the air in front of the barrel while dry firing it can push the air in the back, causing the back cap to come lose. It usually doesn't come lose by average playing time. But does need to be re-tighten after each use. And also you could buy a tool less back cap so you can always tighten as needed.

One last thing, make sure when you tighten the back cap you don't over tighting it, you might crack the frame. You might want to look to make sure it's not cracked already

I hope some of this helped, if not just let me know if its something else.
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Old 08-26-2011, 08:29 AM #79
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Thank you Nawasaki. Yes, I was wrong about the #9 o-ring. I miss read the schematic. Its kind of confusing. It only shows 1 #2 o-ring when in fact there are two. I also miss understood that #9 was a bumper. I found out I was wrong when I called DP customer service last night.

I spoke with a tech and he said to 1. replace the battery (even though the gun wasnt blinking yet to tell me it was bad) and 2. replace o-rings #11 and #3.

He told me NOT to use ANY lube when I replace the #11 o-ring on the back cap. He said it will get a better seal if its dry. I did that, replaced #3, then did the soap test and there is no leaking from the back cap.

NOW I can hear leaking coming from the trigger area. Any input on that? I still havent gotten to my possible Techt bolt sticking issue.
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Old 08-26-2011, 10:42 AM #80
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trigger area points to the noid needing lube or oring replacement.

does the gun stick fire completely? what is your dwell setting with the engine? the tech t bolt tends to need a higher dwell for the first few cases of paint in order to break in a little bit and prevent bolt stick.
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Old 08-26-2011, 10:57 AM #81
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Problem Solved!!

I took out the solenoid, lubed the inside shaft with a liberal amount of Lurker Lube as well as the two tiny o-rings that seal the solenoid to the gun. I wouldve replaced the o-rings seeing as how I had it all apart but the DP G4 o-ring kit DOES NOT come with o-rings for the solenoid.

Leaking has ceased!

I left my air tank connected to the gun to see if there is any drop in psi just in case.

On my lunch break Im going to Ithaca Paintball to make sure I dont have any bolt stick. After installing the Techt bolt yesterday the gun was not firing correctly and I was getting puff sounds but no shot fired. I used a fairly liberal amount of lube on everything so hopefully I wont have any problems.

firefoxx, the Techt bolt was used so I dont think I need to worry about breaking it in. I lowered my dwell to 9 because Techt says its good to lower it to 9-10.


Hopefully all of this is behind me now. Whether it is or not, this is still a great gun! Yes all of these problems have been an enormous pain in the @$$ but Im still happy with the gun. (Im probably only saying that because its working right now. Last night I wanted to break it in half. lol) When I remember all the time I spent cleaning and repairing my old Spyders this really isnt any different.
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Last edited by jimbo69ny : 08-26-2011 at 10:59 AM.
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Old 08-26-2011, 03:31 PM #82
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techt can say whaterever they want... the bolt needs a higher dwell for the first case of paint or so.

set it to 12 before you come back with bolt stick issues.
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Old 08-26-2011, 04:06 PM #83
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Originally Posted by firefoxx04 View Post
techt can say whaterever they want... the bolt needs a higher dwell for the first case of paint or so.

set it to 12 before you come back with bolt stick issues.
lol Ok. Will do.
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Old 11-16-2011, 12:42 PM #84
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This weekend when I gassed up my G4 the part of the elbow for the macro line that locks it in place shot out of the elbow never to be found so I replaced the whole elbow and sure enough the opposite elbow did the same thing the one on the reg. So I recomend changing the DP macro elbows before this happens to you. Also make sure before you air up your G4 turn the reg screw in all the way in then back out accordingly to get the correct fps. Otherwise you will have difficulty screwing in the reg screw in to decrease pressure
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