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Old 08-29-2010, 06:07 PM #1
firefoxx04
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How to fix your G4 "out of the box" issues.

********UPDATE, SEE SECOND POST *******




So you just got your G4 or spec R in the mail and air it up. You turn the pressure up and fire but the most you get is a small puff of air through the grip frame. You think to your self, "CRAP, i got a dud.." You call DP and they tell you to break the gun in

how does one break a gun in that does not shoot? Well this will tell you how.

The factory lube on the DP guns is not very nice to spool valve guns. The G4 is being effected the most and many people are having issues with the gun not shooting out of the box. This small and simple guide will get your G4 shooting.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

So the first steps to getting your G4 to shoot well is to wipe off all lube from the marker.

_ _ _ _ _ _ _

for the bolt:

1) Take the backcap off and take the bolt out. Wipe off all lube with a nice cloth. Once the bolt is clean, set it to the side.

2) Now clean the inside of the breach with a nice cloth that will not damage the internal orings. A barrel swab should work nicely.

3) once the bolt system is clean of the factory lube, apply fresh lube to the bolt and backcap stem oring. You only need a little bit of lube to put on the bolt. Also, to much on the backcap stem oring can cause bolt stick. This oring does not need much, just enough to make it appear wet.

4) Insert the bolt back into the body of the g4. IT should slide in with little force. Then put the backcap onto the marker and make sure it is tight but not to tight.



Now for the inline regulator:


this can be tricky. You should read the manual at this point for regulator disassembly of the HPR. The manual for the G4 can be found here

A few tips on getting the reg apart would be to take a mouse pad and use it as a grip and take your hand and try to twist the reg apart. You can also use two different allen keys to make one key and use it to take the reg apart

1) once the reg is apart, carefully clean off all factory lube from the piston, seat and even if some is on the spring

2) Relube the reg orings only. You can use dow55 or what ever floats your boat. I use lurker lube. Its good stuff.

3) once the orings are relubed, put the reg back together.




Now for the Solenoid:


This can be tricky but it is vital to have a clean solenoid for your marker to work at optimal efficiency and consistency.

The following directions will tell you how to get the noid out of the G4.

1) Remove the grips from the frame. Once they are off, unplug all the solenoid wires and eye wires from the board

2) once the wires are unplugged, remove the frame screws. There should be two of them (assuming its the same as the g3)

One should be located behind the backacp and the other located between the reg and the trigger guard.

3) once both screws are out you should be able to take the frame off the body of the G4

*be careful, it would not be fun to rip the frame off and pull the eye wires with it.

4) once the frame is off, you will see the solenoid. Remove bolt screws that hold the noid in place

5) remove the noid from the body of the G4. BE CAREFUL not to lose the two very small orings that seal the solenoid to the body of the g4. I would take these orings off and set them to the side until you are ready to put the marker back together.

6) once the solenoid is out, follow the directions in this video by our very own pbn user, Intense Image


7) if you follow the directions in the video, you will have carefully taken the noid piston out. Once it is out, carefully wipe it down until all lube is off of it.

8) Also, take a cue tip and rip some of the fluffy stuff off. Be sure to leave some fluffy stuff but take enough off so that you can fit it into the solenoid to clean it. Once the inside of the solenoid clean. proceed to step 9.

9) Relube the noid piston with your choice of lube. IT must not be a swelling lube. This should be known to the user anyways as the G4 is a spool valve gun. Swelling lube causes issues on spool valves.

10) once the noid piston is lubed, re insert it into the solenoid. MAKE SURE to put it in the right way.. remember the part the tweezers grabbed onto should face out.

11) once the noid is together, put the orings back on it that seal it to the body of the g4. It would be wise to put a lil bit of lube on these orings so they great a nice seal to the body.

12) once the noid is ready, re bolt it to the body of the marker and proceed to put the G4 back together.

*make sure to plug all board wires back into the board


Quote:
First thing when attempting to remove the threaded cap of the solenoid, be sure you have the correct tools. The flat-head screwdriver you will need is a 1/4-inch size. If you don't have one, get one before attempting. A $2 screwdriver is cheaper than a $40 noid. Make sure the head of the screwdriver fits snug in the slot and extends to both edges (that it is thick and wide enough). Too small of a screwdriver head will only lead to stripping out issues.

Next, the screw will be tough to get off the first time so it will take some CAREFULL muscle. Wrap the noid in a rag and tighten a crescent wrench down on the noid near the end that has the silver screw you are attempting to remove. Make sure you get the wrench nice and tight on the noid.

Time for some CAREFULL muscle. Hold the wrench/noid in one hand or on a flat surface and start unscrewing the cap. Be sure to apply some pressure to the screwdriver (toward the face of the screw if that makes sense) - this will help in trying to prevent the screwdriver head from slipping out of the slot.

Turn counterclockwise to unscrew. Once you have the cap off, take the noid out of the wrench because now it's time to get the piston out. There will be a spring you can take out with tweezers if it doesn't come out by itself when removing the cap. To get a hold of the piston with the tweezers, take the open end of the noid and hit it - open end down - against something flat (a piece of wood works great) You may need to do this a few times so that enough of the piston comes towards the opening that you can grab it with the tweezers. Once you have it, clean it off, relube, put it all back together in the correct order, put your marker back together, and air it up for testing.

Once the g4 is all put together and freshly lubed, make sure to do the following:

1) Take your reg adjustment allen key (1/8t, may or may not be included with the g4)

2) Take this key and turn the reg pressure screw all the way IN or clockwise.

3) Once its all the way in, turn the marker on with a fresh battery. Also, be sure to turn the eyes off.

4) Now air the marker up with a tank that has over 1000psi in it.

5) Once aired up with eyes off, pull the trigger and keep pulling the trigger

6) While pulling the trigger, slowly turn the pressure screw on the reg counter clockwise.. or out.

7) Eventually the marker should leak, then seal, and then fire.

8) Once the marker fires, stop turning the screw, and go to a field crono.

9) Adjust the pressure of the reg until 285fps is achieved or your fields limit.

* please note that the stock barrel is a .690 bore. This is not the best barrel to use as the bore is big. try using a smaller bore barrel. they require less pressure to shoot the paintball at 285fps. In turn, less pressure makes the g4 smoother.




Congrats, if you followed these directions you should have a working G4.

If you have an questions, info to add, or think i did something wrong, feel free to post up.

thanks guys
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Last edited by firefoxx04 : 03-18-2014 at 09:07 PM.
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Old 08-29-2010, 06:08 PM #2
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* * * * * * * * * Update * * * * * * * *

While i really recommend relubing the entire gun as stated above, that might not fix ALL the guns.

Another thing to check if your gun is still not working right after trying the above steps is this

Quote:
Hi,

I recently picked up a G4 from ANSgear and I love it, coming from the Speedball markers of the early-mid 2000s this thing is light and really fast!
I have only played with the marker threes times and at the end of the day yesterday it stopped shooting; a hissing puff of air would come out from under the trigger after each pull but the bolt would not cycle. Now, I have done the whole clean and re-lube the bolt and solenoid and nothing was working. So today I called DP, I was told to replace the last O-ring in my breach (19x2). I did this and the marker worked

http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=3664574

Now changing this oring might be easier than relubing the gun, and doing so may fix your issues but remember DP lube is crap and the gun wont shoot as consistent as a gun lubed with lurker lube, monkey poo, sleek, violent lube, etc(they say it has been fixed but it also cost as much as PROVEN lubes so why us the dp crap?)

I always relube my brand new guns when i get them regardless
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Last edited by firefoxx04 : 08-22-2011 at 10:11 PM.
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Old 09-06-2010, 05:18 PM #3
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Nicee
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Old 09-10-2010, 09:57 PM #4
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Thanks so much! Just had time to clean and re-lube the bolt/back cap. It got my marker to fire . One thing though, I can hear a leak or very slight hissing sound coming out of the feed neck (with the hopper off the marker)...is this normal?
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Old 09-10-2010, 10:09 PM #5
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no its not. check your internal body o-rings and your back cap head o-ring
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Old 09-24-2010, 12:46 PM #6
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Thanks much. I cant you how dissapointed I was to open such a nice box with a good looking gun inside only to find I couldnt send paint down range...

All of this was explained to me by the local air smith but it took a trip and a day out to do it.

I gotta say, its a great gun aside from the bolt o-ring issue.
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Old 09-26-2010, 06:42 PM #7
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Great post. Mine worked well out of the box, but after a few games the asa leaks when flipped down. I've take the piston out and checked the o-ring. any thoughts?
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Old 09-26-2010, 08:22 PM #8
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what do you mean flipped down, is that gassed position?
if so replace the oring, lube it up. doubt it is your tank reg that is leaking when the valve on it is pushed in.
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Old 09-26-2010, 09:13 PM #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim Kuykendall View Post
Great post. Mine worked well out of the box, but after a few games the asa leaks when flipped down. I've take the piston out and checked the o-ring. any thoughts?
try airing the marker up with the asa REMOVED from the frame. If it still leaks, that means it is your oring (usually)

if it stops the leak, that means you had the bleed holes for the asa blocked.. to fix this, slide the asa back on and adjust it until the leak stops. (slide it forward/backwards)
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Old 10-01-2010, 09:36 PM #10
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Nice! Thanks
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Old 10-01-2010, 11:25 PM #11
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work of art ahaha
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Old 10-02-2010, 09:49 AM #12
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thank you.
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Old 10-04-2010, 04:42 PM #13
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very well written...im highly considering buying one of these now
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Old 10-04-2010, 05:04 PM #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjsports88 View Post
very well written...im highly considering buying one of these now
NICE

The main reason i stuck with DP was because the online community here on pbn is very very willing to help you with anything. I never get great support like this in the other sections on pbn.

If you do ever have any trouble at all, feel free to make a thread and we will help you to the best of our ability.
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Old 10-06-2010, 07:05 PM #15
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I'm still rocking the G3 and that shot well right out of the box, a bit disappointed that you need to go through the above procedures to get it shooting right out of hte box.
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Old 10-06-2010, 07:34 PM #16
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G3's aren't G4's
Yeah it is kinda sad, but if you do it, it shoots nice. I don't know why DP uses DP-40 lube and not some dow33. Maybe it hasn't kicked in that DP-40 causes bolt stick and stuff?
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Old 10-06-2010, 08:27 PM #17
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I still love DP and want a G4 but just a comment.
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Old 10-06-2010, 08:49 PM #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimsta View Post
I'm still rocking the G3 and that shot well right out of the box, a bit disappointed that you need to go through the above procedures to get it shooting right out of hte box.
The issue has supposedly been fixed. So this should not be an issue as much anymore.

Less and less people come into this forum asking for help on solving the above issues. The first release g4s has the issues and it showed.
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Old 10-16-2010, 06:53 PM #19
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How many other member have tried this w/ success? I was able to get my g4 to fire the a few weeks ago using the instructions and marmalade lube....hit the field today and it still has not worked after multiple cleaning/re-lubing. I've tried new batteries and have a full tank.
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Old 10-16-2010, 08:41 PM #20
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I cant remember, is marmalade (did i spell it right?) for poppets? as in it swells orings? i know one of them does.

maybe try a different lube.
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Old 10-18-2010, 09:36 PM #21
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It's for spool valve bolts...or atleast o-ring monkey's description says so. Finally got it to work properly, cleaned and re-lubed again but replaced the rear o-ring and it did the trick. thanks for the help!
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