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Old 07-08-2013, 01:25 AM #1
tarrguy57
 
 
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Halfblock Bolt Designs

Recently picked up a halfblock cocker and the bolt is very plain jane: relatively tight fitting cylinder with an air hole on the bottom. Curious on what people's thoughts are on o-ringed bolts, different air openings at the bolt face, etc. I'm knew to the cocker scene but I keep hearing/seeing different kinds of bolts with different bolt faces and 0-3 o-ring bolts. Just curious on what people think/have experience with.

Also curious how compatible if at all Sniper, T2, etc. bolts are with a halfblocked cocker.
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Old 10-21-2013, 08:40 PM #2
new ion?
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As I don't own a Sniper, I can't confirm one way or another if they'll work.. However, seeing as they're fairly cheap, I bet you could buy a Techt Hush bolt and see how it lines up to your stock bolt. If it doesn't work, should be pretty easy to sell too.

My halfblock BM runs an oringless bolt, but all my other cockers have 2 oring bolts. None of those are halfblocks though.
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Old 10-21-2013, 10:49 PM #3
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Figured I might try and see if my local shop has one I could test fit. I was more curious about o-rings and face openings. MCB has said face openings don't really matter (which I find odd seeing as the two delrin bolts I had in my 98 back in the day, one venturi faced the other wide open, operated completely differently, but whatever.) I had read that the o-rings create a bit of drag at times but the delrin of an o-ringless bolt can swell can cause a tighter fit. So it seems one way or another there will be an issue whether it has o-rings or not.
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Old 10-22-2013, 08:37 PM #4
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The problem with O-rings on halfblock bolts is getting the orings to go back into the top tube without catching during the cycle.
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Old 10-22-2013, 09:29 PM #5
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hokay - on a poppet, a venturi causes more backpressure, opening the valve farther. If it's a black magic, or a midblock (where the back isn't just chopped off) then you don't have to worry about orings catching on the body.
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Old 10-22-2013, 09:44 PM #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grendal50 View Post
The problem with O-rings on halfblock bolts is getting the orings to go back into the top tube without catching during the cycle.
Ah now that makes sense about the o-rings catching. Think there is any benefit to even having an o-ring near the tip of the bolt? That wouldn't be a problem with catching because it would never be out of the top tube

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Originally Posted by new ion? View Post
hokay - on a poppet, a venturi causes more backpressure, opening the valve farther. If it's a black magic, or a midblock (where the back isn't just chopped off) then you don't have to worry about orings catching on the body.
Mine is a custom half block with the back just chopped off.
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Old 10-22-2013, 09:46 PM #7
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Probably want to avoid the oring bolts. DOAT blew up a sled on his Merlin.... granted that was an extreme case, but still.
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Old 10-23-2013, 12:16 AM #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by new ion? View Post
Probably want to avoid the oring bolts. DOAT blew up a sled on his Merlin.... granted that was an extreme case, but still.
how in the hell did he do that?
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Old 10-23-2013, 06:52 AM #9
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.... I guess you don't know about the merlin of doom.

Basically, he did that by seeing how quickly he can get his cocker to shoot. It was about (as per his post) 28bps when an oring came out of the groove and was mashed between the body and sled/bolt enough that the sled failed.
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Old 10-23-2013, 10:20 AM #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by new ion? View Post
.... I guess you don't know about the merlin of doom.

Basically, he did that by seeing how quickly he can get his cocker to shoot. It was about (as per his post) 28bps when an oring came out of the groove and was mashed between the body and sled/bolt enough that the sled failed.
I have only just gotten into cockers in the last year along with AKA markers so no I haven't. Got a link to that thread? Would love to read about it.

Correction yes I have seen that just didn't know that it was his or that it was the merlin or doom. Loved it because it was so small
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Last edited by tarrguy57 : 10-23-2013 at 10:25 AM.
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Old 10-23-2013, 02:28 PM #11
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Unfortunately there's no build log on here, but he does list his full specs so it would be possible, albeit a **** tonne of work, to replicate it.
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Old 10-23-2013, 04:07 PM #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by new ion? View Post
Unfortunately there's no build log on here, but he does list his full specs so it would be possible, albeit a **** tonne of work, to replicate it.
Ya not so much a build log but I found his details of fiddling with different boards and specs. Wish I had the cash to do something similar. I have something kinda like it in a mech setup just not as many high end parts (first cocker I ever owed, just need to get it up to speed so I can actually play with it)
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Old 10-23-2013, 09:56 PM #13
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Well, this will probably all belong in the cocker section, but what's wrong with it?
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Old 10-23-2013, 10:19 PM #14
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Meh it was a custom build so it counts

Just can't get it timed properly. Either it constantly leaks down the barrel around the bolt and doesn't cycle very good. I can get it timed to shoot pretty ok but it is only around 200FPS maybe. If I try to increase it on the reg or the LPR I might get one or two shots and it stops cocking and leaks down the barrel.
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Old 10-23-2013, 10:20 PM #15
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Video will help. Also, post this in the cocker section, there are more people much more in tune with the gnomes than me.
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Old 05-16-2014, 04:00 PM #16
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I do my own half blocking so consequently I also make my own bolts. I have (to date) cut the middle out of two ANS venturi bolts and put them back together. One was all Aluminum and the other was half aluminum half delrin. If I don't forget I'll get some pics tonight when I get home.
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Old 05-29-2014, 02:44 PM #17
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Took me a little longer than expected but here it is:

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