Sold!!!! Thanks everyone!!!!!!!
Up for sale today is beautiful, custom halfblocked Trilogy autococker. I built this marker completely from scratch. I originally built it to have a high performance, quality mech, as a reliable backup to my electos. Or just for days when I wanted to shoot a little slower and not waste so much paint. Anyways, I play so seldom anymore that I never use it, and it just doesn't make sense for this to sit around collecting dust. First, here's a couple pics:
Don't let the fact that this is a Trilogy body lead you to believe that this is an "inferior" cocker. The only Trilogy part on it is the body, and even that has been thoroughly modified. Every single other part, down to the last screw, has been replaced or upgraded. Most of the upgrades are the best autococker upgrades available. Here is the complete list:
Trilogy Pro body custom modified by me
-feedneck cut down
-drilled for dual detents
-previously drilled eye holes filled in
-milled to accept Belsales ram
WWA halfblock bolt and sled, also custom modified
-bolt milled for front o-ring, and detent grooves
-custom threaded stainless steel pull-pin
Trinity T-lock feedneck, custom anodized
Kila magnetic detents, dual
Belsales .44 magnum ram
CCM straight stainless steel pump arm
Palmer's Micro Rock LPR
-custom anodized Shocktech knob
Palmer's LT valve
WGP Lockdown hammer, halfblock slotted
drg halfblock hammer slug
Stainless Steel IVG
Maddmann spring kits, hammer and valve
ANS 90 degree hinge frame
Techt Shaft Kit, adjustable 3-way actuator rod
Custom Products regulator
Smart Parts angled drop
Smart Parts 1/4 turn on/off ASA
Now for some more pics:
I chose to build this marker on a Trilogy body for a few reasons. Mainly, I like the lack of a front block. The LPR is centered, the 3-way and ram are tucked in closer to the body, the whole setup is more streamlined and symmetrical. Also, the Trilogy is one of the few cockers that use an 11/16" valve, rather then a standard cocker valve. This means that the valve chamber is larger then on a standard cocker. Also, the Trilogy does not use a jam nut to hold the valve in place like on standard cockers, so you don't need a special tool to remove the valve.
I also chose to make it more of a "close-quarters" setup. First, with the selection of the 90 degree frame. It allows you to tuck your marker in closer, without putting an uncomfortable strain on your wrist. The angle of the frame works perfectly with the Trilogy Pro's 15 degree forward VA. I also added the angled drop. I know drops are a bit "out of style", but it does work perfectly with the angle of the frame and VA, and tipping the tank down also makes it easier to tuck the marker in closer. I usually used this with a 45/4500 tank, and a fairly short barrel. It makes the whole setup very compact.
Now, a few details about some of the modifications
As was mentioned, and you can see above, the body was previously drilled for eyes. I filled in the eye holes with JBweld. As you can see in one of the pics further up, in the right light the color blends fairly well with the body. Also, I drilled and tapped through part of one of the holes to install the second detent. With the detent installed the filled in holes are barely noticeable.
This is the custom pull-pin I mentioned. Originally I used the standard pull-pin that came with the WWA kit. However, I found that it was a little short, and didn't catch much of the hammer. It would also pop up out of the bolt after a few cycles. I found and tried a slightly longer pull-pin, but also had the same problem. So I picked up a stainless steel 5/16-18 socket head cap screw, and turned it down to the proper size and shape, leaving a few of the threads at the top. I also tapped the 5/16-18 threads into the upper portion of the bolt. Now, the pull-pin inserts into the bolt, and threads in to lock into place.
I added the detent slots in the front of the bolt. I also milled the slot for the front o-ring. This helps make a better seal in the breach, reducing lost air, and keeping your velocity and air efficiency higher. I would have added to additional o-rings around the air transfer hole like some bolt have, but this sometimes causes a problem in halfblocks. As the bolt moves, the o-rings would slide in and out of the body, causing the potential for one of them to hang up on the lip of the tube. So I opted not to add those. Also, remember to keep the bolt o-ring lightly lubricated, or it will cause drag.
I installed one of drg's halfblock hammer slugs. You can see the details about them here
The marker includes a set of Maddmann cocker hammer springs, and a Spyder mainspring kit. Since the Trilogy uses a different size valve spring then standard cockers, the valve springs in a cocker spring kit are useless. However, the Trilogy valve spring is very close in size to the Spyder mainspring, which is why I used a kit of those. Right now I believe I used the lightest spring in the valve, and the medium hammer spring.
You may notice the fitting on the Techt Shaft has been ground down a little, that is because the previous owner used it with a CCM 86 degree frame, and it had to be ground down to fit. Still works perfectly.
The CP regulator is the older version 1 style, and actually started life chrome plated. When I got it though the finish was in horrible shape and it was badly scratched. I cleaned it up as best as possible, and had it re-anodized gloss black. The finish is in very good shape, but you might notice a few nicks in the surface.
That's all the details I can think of about the parts and upgrades. On to the more important details.
PRICE: $250. This includes Priority Mail shipping, insurance, and all other fees and such. Payment through Paypal only.
Marker includes the stock barrel, only because I have it, have no other use for it, and it matches the body. I never actually used it. I'm also including the full spring kits, and maybe some extra red micro and macro line if I've got it.
The marker is currently chronographed to ~285fps. That, however, was set using a quality barrel kit, and bore-matched paint. Depending on the paint and barrel you use you might see different results over the chronograph. The regulators are not completely "sweet spotted", and the timing is set fairly loosely. You could tighten it up significantly and shorten up the trigger pull if you desire. The marker functions completely fine as-is, it just could benefit from a little extra tuning if you have the know-how.
Any questions please ask. Not really looking for trades at the moment, just cash. If you don't like my price please offer up and we'll discuss it.
I have lots of feedback here, as well as Ebay, and it's all 100% positive, lots of it as seller. I am a mature adult; all my gear is well cleaned and maintained. I do my best to describe anything I sell as completely and accurately as possible.
Thanks for looking!