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Old 11-19-2010, 01:05 PM #85
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Originally Posted by Krazy8 View Post
Either a reg tester or another gun with a gauge on the verticle ASA. The Drone needs 110 to 120 psi to function properly.
Regulator tester? Never even knew they existed. I'm assuming that you screw them onto a regulator on the threads that screw into the marker? So those reg threads are pretty standard for the industry? I'm looking at a Dye reg tester Hyper 3, will that work for the Gladiator?

I'll reread the FAQ.

Sooner or later I'm going to get this thing to work.
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Old 11-19-2010, 10:07 PM #86
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...I am recharging the battery to see if that is the issue, but am I missing anything?

I have never had good luck with rechargeable batteries- they never again get full power after a few charges. Fresh alkaline Duracells have never let me down.

The "updated" boards were shipped somewhere after serial number 40 or so. The only difference is that they added the ramping modes left off in the first version. Some also defaulted to a dwell of 8 rather than 16. This will create performance problems on a brand new or recently rebuilt gun.

If the gun won't go into any other fire modes than semi, check tourny lock. It is a small button on the LEFT side of the board. You may have mistakenly turned it on. But honestly, if you don't have a fresh, high quality battery, anything can happen with the board.

Put in a fresh battery, enter programming mode, and verify the settings there. They should match the manual's recommended settings.

Working on the Drone will really let you get to know it. These things are simple and work great when taken care of. I've had them sent to me by people that swore they were posessed, and simply found a weak battery. Others simply had the regulator way out of adjustment.

Good luck. PM me if you get stuck, but be patient for a reply. Work right now is kind of hectic. As for me, I will be putting a few cases through my drone tomorrow- its a great way to get rid of a frustrating week at work. I may even shoot Krazy8 a few times


EDIT: and be sure to not put the battery in backwards. That causes all kinds of problems. It will let the smoke out of the board. I've seen the results of this and it is not pretty, and doesn't smell very good either.

Last edited by Boomer14 : 11-19-2010 at 10:37 PM.
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Old 11-20-2010, 12:47 PM #87
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OK, fresh battery, 6x1 O-ring replaced with 6x1.5 O-ring, and gassed up.

I got the marker to cycle, but WHAMMO! Leaking again. What happened is that the marker gassed up and held air, however when I fired it the leaking began. So I grabbed an Allan key and began to tighten the reg adjusting screw until it stopped. Then I'd fire again and the leaking would commence. I did that several times, in and out and the leaking would not stop.

All I can do now is get the appropriate O-ring size (6x1, which is coming from McMaster and due on Monday) and put it in. If it fails, then I give up and will have to send it in to MacDev. What a pain in the ***, seriously.

What would you guys do?
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Old 11-20-2010, 05:42 PM #88
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When you get the proper size, do the same thing you did this time, but fire it a bunch. See if it seals itself.
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Old 11-22-2010, 09:11 AM #89
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Here's a couple issues I've found with the Drone that a lot of people haven't touched on. My team of 12 has been running with them here in Canada for awhile and I've found owning a shop to tech them gets you A LOT of hands on experience.

1) Check the batteries. Only run high energy alkalines, such as Duracell Pro-Cell or Energizer Industrial Grade. CHEAP BATTERIES OR POOR CHARGES CAN CAUSE LEAKS! The gun doesn't have enough juice to make the bolt cycle and will cause leaking issues while you are shooting the gun.

2) The reg is VERY sensitive. It's not like a blowback. 1/4 turn's will get you roughly 25-30PSI increase. You have to turn it literally an 1/8 a turn at a time, cycle 5-10 shots, then test your velocity/pressure. Overcranking it will cause to much pressure to go through, which could hold air until you shoot the marker, then with to much pressure, will cause leaking issues. To much pressure will cause the gun to cycle through the entire hopper of paint at 4398603896 BPS after you blow the 011 Power Tube Tip O-Ring out. This is a classic overpressurizing response.

3) The dwell runs best for me at 11. I find even after break in, 11 is best. Now, I'm in Canada. It's cold most the time, and the air is weird here... clean... unlike the states. So, higher dwell for some reason works better for me. If I run at 9, I get leaking and functionality issues.

4) Eyes malfunction. Dead giveaway that your battery is dying and/or there's no much paint chopped in your breech. No paint in your breech? Means your battery is on its way to deadsville.

5) SERVICE THE GUN EVERY TIME BEFORE YOU PLAY! It's a spool. You need to take the drivetrain out, pull it apart, lube it, and put it back together. Relax, it takes 2 minutes... but if you don't do it, the next time you throw your marker in your gear bag and don't take care of it... it'll shoot like poop.

6) Commit to the ASA. Mine likes to spit back a little air at me if I don't tighten down the ASA cap quick enough. Relax, don't be a wussy and just be quick about it. I find lubbing up the two 005 orings on the ends of the bar under the cap help a little, but not much.

7) CRAZY LEAKING! Now, the last, and biggest issues I had of all with the Drone were when I first got it. IF YOU DON'T PUSH THE KEG ALL THE WAY BACK TO THE FRONT WHEN YOU REASSEMBLE, IT WILL LEAK EVERY TIME! I know this sounds stupid, but you have to push it in, and then just make sure it clicks into place nice and smoothly. If you don't give it that 2nd little nudge after you've put it in just to make sure... it will leak. I guarantee.

Other than that... I haven't had any MAJOR issues where orings, lube, and cleaning couldn't fix it. Nothing I've had to call MacDev for, and honestly, they shoot like a dream.

Now... if I could just get my MacDev pants like I was promised... </3

PMC, PM me with more info if you need further help. I find if they've been a problem from the beginning, its usually user error, and I'd be more than happy to help educate on the glory of MacDev where I can.

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Old 11-22-2010, 09:20 AM #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PMC Unknown View Post
OK, fresh battery, 6x1 O-ring replaced with 6x1.5 O-ring, and gassed up.

I got the marker to cycle, but WHAMMO! Leaking again. What happened is that the marker gassed up and held air, however when I fired it the leaking began. So I grabbed an Allan key and began to tighten the reg adjusting screw until it stopped. Then I'd fire again and the leaking would commence. I did that several times, in and out and the leaking would not stop.

All I can do now is get the appropriate O-ring size (6x1, which is coming from McMaster and due on Monday) and put it in. If it fails, then I give up and will have to send it in to MacDev. What a pain in the ***, seriously.

What would you guys do?
If the 6x1 doesn't work? Send it in. Sometimes you just have to.
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Old 11-22-2010, 01:55 PM #91
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Originally Posted by OperationMilsim View Post
PMC, PM me with more info if you need further help. I find if they've been a problem from the beginning, its usually user error, and I'd be more than happy to help educate on the glory of MacDev where I can.
Let's try this open post first, then maybe I'll work one-on-one with you. Thanks in advance - and to all of you guys that have been trying to help me with this issue.



Here we go, key:

A: The Inline Adjuster (naturally).
B: External groove for O-ring.
C: Internal groove for O-ring.
D: McMaster bought 6x1 O-ring.
D: Ace bought 6x1.5 O-ring.

OK, so I received my bag of 6x1 O-rings. Right away I knew they were going to be too small to seal anything. Did I get the wrong type? If I didn't, let's confirm this:

1) The 6x1 O-ring goes on the Inline Adjuster into the external groove, correct?
2) The 008 O-ring goes inside the Inline Adjuster into the internal groove, correct?

If this is true, I don't have to put that 6x1 O-ring on, I KNOW it is going to leak - just look at how wimpy it is! It will not even cover the width of the external groove.

OK, based on this, can anyone tell me something...
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Old 11-23-2010, 10:20 AM #92
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Old 11-23-2010, 10:56 AM #93
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Compair the two questionable orings to the size of the original oring that was in there from MacDev. Use the one that is closer.

With oring sometimes bigger ones will not seal properly.
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Old 11-23-2010, 11:41 AM #94
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Compair the two questionable orings to the size of the original oring that was in there from MacDev. Use the one that is closer.

With oring sometimes bigger ones will not seal properly.
I appreciate the advice, but I'm really aiming to get the right O-ring in this thing. The 6x1.5 still leaks (which is bigger) and the 6x1 is too small and doesn't even look like the appropriate O-ring. Just using an O-ring "that is closer" hasn't been cutting it.

I need to refer back to the original questions (given with the photo above):

1) The 6x1 O-ring goes on the Inline Adjuster into the external groove, correct?
2) The 008 O-ring goes inside the Inline Adjuster into the internal groove, correct?
3) Does this 6x1 O-ring even look similar to the one needed - is there a chance I bought the wrong kind?
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Old 11-23-2010, 12:05 PM #95
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OK, I see, I see...

Let me answer my own questions:

The 6x1 O-ring goes into the internal groove of the Inline Adjuster and the the 008 goes on the external groove - and yes, that 6x1 O-ring was right.

I have gassed and have shot a few rounds with a fresh battery but lightly filled tank. I am going to top off my tank and throw whatever paint I have lying around to ensure that I am safe.

It was the 6x1 O-ring. I had thought that it went on the outside groove. For the sake of people like myself going through this, I am going to write up something that will - hopefully - get sticky status.

As of now, lets wait to see if I can get some paint through it. I'm so excited...
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Old 11-23-2010, 07:26 PM #96
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I am sorry. I misread your question as to oring locations...I read A through D and thought you had it all correct.
Yes the 6 x 1 oring goes inside the adjuster...and seals against the reg seat. That was explained in post #45 and #81 so I just glassed past the rest of your question this morning...my fault there for not reading all the way!

Very glad to hear you got it running though...it has been a long time a comin!

Type up your helpful ideas and add them to the Tactical Drone FAQ thread!
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Old 12-08-2010, 10:04 AM #97
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Alright, so I took it firing and got a few rounds out but it was not consistent. When I mean not consistent I don't mean velocity either; the air would choke in/out and sometimes just stop all together. Basically, the reg needs tuning.

I am hoping that this is my last question on this thread - ever! After this I will be posting my write-up to help others that purchase this gun and who have a out-of-box problem like I did. Sooo...

Reg testers: Do all regs have the same threads? I mean, are they universal so every reg tester will work on every reg? More specific, will the Dye Hyper 3 regulator tester work on the RX2 Gladiator?

I think that tuning the reg will bring the consistency to the marker.

I'm thinking by March I will be ready to take this out to a field confidently.
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Old 12-08-2010, 10:28 AM #98
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March...? Really? Have you really considered sending the gun off to a tech?

Anyhow.
No. The Dye Hyper 3 has a different threading. Up until the Hyper 3 most everybos used a standard ASA threading...Dye wanted to force folks to use their propritary regulator...so the Hyper3.
Most everybody else still uses standard ASA threading though.

If you need one, build you own tester. Use a higher quality gauge than the one use by Dye on their tester...that thing is crap.
With the Drone you should only need to test upto about 120-140 psi.
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Old 12-08-2010, 10:42 AM #99
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If you need one, build you own tester.
Build one? So there is nothing that I can buy outright to test this reg?

At this point I don't think it is worth sending to a tech. The leaking issue I fixed, now it is just an issue of tuning the regulator. That's all.
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Old 12-08-2010, 03:34 PM #100
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Zero the reg so no air flows through.

Add air tank and charge system.

Slowly increase Reg pressure and periodically shoot untill you get a consistant full cycle.

Chrono. Adjust to desired FPS.

Done...Reg tuned.

There is nothing else. No need to balance, prioritize or choreograph...really easy. If it works...it works.


There has been reg testers sold in the past by various companies. But honestly every tester I have ever seen in use was built by its owner.
Kinda like a Jedi Light Saber....

Honestly for a Reg tester all you need is a remote line ASA adapter or an on/off ASA and a good high quality gauge.
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Old 12-11-2010, 02:01 PM #101
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When I'm not pooping around with my marker, I'm doodling in SolidWorks. Check out that beauty...

I'm going to do the RX2 next, and then my entire marker with mods. Should look nice with the rendering.







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Old 12-12-2010, 04:34 PM #102
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That Is awesome! well done! After you do your marker do an Cyborg RX next!
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Old 12-12-2010, 06:37 PM #103
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That Is awesome! well done! After you do your marker do an Cyborg RX next!
Sure, I'll hit MacDev up for one! LOL
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Old 12-12-2010, 06:48 PM #104
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More for the drivetrain:



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Old 12-14-2010, 01:04 AM #105
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is this a more of a woodsball gun?? or fastball?? Looking for a good under $500 gun for speedball.. any suggestions let me know..
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