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Old 06-01-2010, 11:44 PM #1
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Planet Eclipse GEO2 Teardown - Death To Dial-Up

Planet Eclipse GEO2 Teardown

Photo's and write up similar to what Uziel Gal did for the Geo (HERE).



Disclaimer

This thread involves disassembly well beyond what is required for normal maintenance. For normal mainentance you will normally only have to remove the prop shaft, bolt and can. See HERE. Occasionally you should clean and lube the regulator. See HERE. Most other aspects of this teardown are not required for general use, but may be required to diagnose or fix a problem. Do not attempt any maintenance or repair that you are not comfortable with. If you are not sure how to perform the steps required for repair, take your gun to a certified Eclipse technician.

Some disassembly steps may have been skipped, or only covered in brief. For more detailed photos and descriptions, please refer to the thread that Uziel Gal made for the Geo (HERE).

*NOTE: All of the photos in this thread show the Violent Series "Deuce" trigger. This is not the stock GEO2 trigger. It was purchased seperately and installed prior to taking these photos.

GEO2 Operation

The GEO2 drivetrain is composed of 3 parts, the prop shaft, the can and the bolt. These are all contained within the body of the GEO2. Air is fed to these parts through a HPR (high pressure regulator) and then a solenoid. There is no LPR (low pressure regulator) in the GEO2. When an air system is attached to the GEO2, the air flows from the OOPS ASA, and into the HPR. At this point the air pressure is regulated down to an oprable range for the GEO2. The new S3 regulator allows for both HP (high pressure) and LP (low pressure) output tanks to be used. This also means that you can shoot the tank to basically empty and still achieve an acceptable firing velocity.

After the air leaves the HPR, it travels through an air passage in the body of the gun, and back to the solenoid. When at rest, the solenoid then transfers air to the front and rear sections of the bolt. The air transferred to the front section of the bolt is held within the can. The air behind the bolt is held within the GEO2's body. The air in front of and behind the bolt is at the same pressure, but the bolt is held rearward due to a larger surface area at the front section of the bolt for the pressure to act on. The GEO2 prop shaft is spring loaded. The spring is contained in the back cap, and the entire shaft is able to move. When at rest, there is a rearward force on the prop shaft that is caused by a larger surface area in the rear of the prop shaft, and the front, this compresses the spring and pushes the prop shaft all the way back into the back cap.

When the trigger is pulled and the solenoid is activated, the spool pack within the solenoid will shift and cause two things to happen. The first is that the air coming into the dump chamber will be cut off, this only allows for a fixed amount of air in the chamber during the firing cycle. The second is that the air in front of the bolt is vented out of the solenoid. The ball check valve stops air from venting out from behind the bolt, only the air that is holding the bolt back is released. When this air is vented the air pressure behind the bolt pushes it forward and into the breach. Once the back end of the bolt clears the main o-ring on the prop shaft, the air is able to flow through the bolt and out of the tip to fire the ball. The finned prop shaft helps keep the bolt centered at all times, while still allowing for proper airflow. It has the side benefit of producing a more muffled sound signature.

As the bolt begins to vent air, the prop shaft is still in the rearward position. As the air vents, the force from the spring in the back cap will push the prop shaft forward. When the prop shaft is fully forward, it will re-seal with the back of the bolt, stopping the outward flow of gas and reducing the amount of wasted air during each firing cycle. All of this occurs during the specified solenoid dwell time. After the dwell time has expired the solenoid spool switches and air is allowed to flow into the chambers in front of and behind the bolt. This causes the bolt to travel back to its resting positioin and to re-compresses the prop shaft spring in the back cap. When both of the chambers have re-filled the gun is back at the ready position and the cycle starts over.
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Last edited by xluben : 06-03-2010 at 09:31 AM.
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Old 06-01-2010, 11:44 PM #2
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Disassembly

The first thing to remove is the Shaft 4 barrel. The barrel uses Autococker threading (like all Eclipse guns). It is a normal right hand threading into the gun's body. But it is a left hand thread between the front and rear sections of the barrel.



The included barrel has been reduced to a 0.689" bore (compared to the 0.693" offered with previous Eclipse guns). Another noticeable change to the Shaft 4 barrel is that the threading interface between the front and rear halves is now opposite. The barrel back has male threading on both ends, and female threaded on the front half. The benefit to this is that the control bore has been extended from 6" to 8.5" with no change in outward appearance. A longer control bore has been shown to deliver higher and more consistent velocities with no other changes to settings. This should result in better efficiency once the pressure is reduced to achieve the proper chronograph speed.



The next thing to remove is the macroline and HPR. The macro line is removed by pushing down on the collar and then pulling out the hose. The HPR is simply unscrewed from the body. The new S3 regulator now uses female threading on the regulator body, and male threading on the gun. This allows for an even lower profile (shorter regulator). The new regulator allows for both HP (high pressure) and LP (low pressure) output tanks to be used. This also means that you can shoot the tank to basically empty and still achieve an acceptable firing velocity.



Once the regulator is off, you can remove the piston out of the top, and then unscrew the bottom portion. This can normally done by hand. Once the bottom portion is removed the spring should fall out. The swivel collar is not removable unless the macroline fitting is first taken off. The fitting is held on with green loctite and usually requires significant force for removal. There is no need to remove the collar for normal maintenance. To access the HPR valve core, screw the adjuster screw all the way in/up, and it will come out the top.



To seperate the two halves of the core assembly, use two allen keys as seen in this photo:



Once the two halves are seperated, you can access the sealing surface. This seal is now flip-able and user replaceable if it should ever become damaged. The white tee is formed so that one side will "clip" onto the small spring. Be sure to re-install in this orientation, and clip the spring back on before re-assembling.



To remove the OOPS ASA, simply loosen the screws on the underside, and slide the ASA assembly off of the T-rail in the frame. You do not need to remove these screws completely. You can also unscrew the knob, and slide the core and pin assembly out the back.



To remove the feedeck lever, unscrew the tumbscrew and remove the screw and lever. To remove the feedneck completely, unscrew/remove the lower feedneck clamping screw and pull the feedneck off of the body.

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Old 06-01-2010, 11:44 PM #3
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The following bolt disassembly is all that is needed for week-to-week maintenance procedures. Everything else in this thread is only need for more in-depth troubleshooting work.

The drivetrain assembly is removed by first unscrewing the prop shaft assembly by hand. To remove the bolt and can, push the bolt slightly forward with your finger, and then use your finger to "hook" onto one of the slots in the can. Then pull out the bolt/can assembly all at once. The bolt can be removed out of the back of the can once it is out of the body. For normal maintenance this is the only disassembly that you need to perform. Simply clean and lightly relube the o-rings and reassemble.



However the prop shaft can be further disassembled if needed. The prop shaft is seperated from the back cap by removing the screw in the back of the back cap. This will also remove the sping. The tip of the prop shaft can be unscrewed from the shaft (normally by hand). If these component will not come apart by hand, you can use an allen key through the holes drilled through the side of the shaft/tip.



Close up of the tip and the bumper washer. The GEO2 prop shaft tip is now removable, fluted, chamfered, and uses a bumper washer instead of an o-ring. The new bumper should have much longer life than the o-ring that was previously used. The prop shaft tip is fluted and fits closely inside of the GEO2 bolt. This helps to keep the bolt properly aligned during its entire stroke. The chamfers help to allow adequate airflow to the ball during firing.



Close up of the back cap/spring. The spring loaded prop shaft allows the dump chamber to automatically seal against the bolt during the vent portion of the firing cycle. This is due to the pressure balance, and will help to reduce wasted gas, no matter what your dwell is set to. The back cap assembly should require little to no maintenance.



Next remove the eye covers, detents and grip panels.



Before removing the frame, be sure to disconnect the solenoid and eye wires from the main circuit board.



To remove the frame, first unscrew the front frame screw completely. Second, loosen the rear frame screw (inside the grip panels) by 1/4-1/2 turn. You do not need to remove this screw completely. Once the front frame screw is removed, and the rear screw is loose, you can slide the frame towards the back of the gun and remove it (being careful of the eye and solenoid wires).



The eyes can be removed from their recesses in the body. Be careful to note their orientation (red = right), and that the left side eye sensor must be threaded through the body.



The solenoid is a custom unit that is held to the body by two screws. A gasket is used to provide an airtight seal. The filter is now contained within the gasket to make installation more straight forward. Within the solenoid body there is a ball check valve, spool pack, and pilot assembly.



The trigger used in the GEO2 is compatible with the Ego9/10 trigger and bearing carrier. The carrier is held in place by two screws. The carrier contains two captive bearing assemblies. The trigger pin is inserted through the bearings and trigger, and then locked in place using a set screw in the top of the trigger. The rear of the trigger contains a return spring. The trigger contains adjustments for return spring, return magnet, pre-travel, post-travel, and microswitch activation point.



When re-assembling the frame to the body, careful attention must be paid to the eye and solenoid wires. This is especially true when using a trigger designed for the Ego9/10. There is very little extra space above the trigger, and if the wires are out of place they will restrict the movement of the trigger.

Here's another photo of the disassembled GEO2!

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Last edited by xluben : 06-02-2010 at 10:30 PM.
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Old 06-01-2010, 11:44 PM #4
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Save3
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Old 06-02-2010, 06:25 AM #5
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They ship soon can not wait
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Old 06-02-2010, 10:32 PM #6
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Thread has been updated. Please let me know if there are any errors!
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Old 06-02-2010, 10:36 PM #7
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Looks gorgeous. Cant wait to get a hold of one.
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Old 06-02-2010, 10:38 PM #8
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Originally Posted by Jekul View Post
Looks gorgeous. Cant wait to get a hold of one.
Thanks! You won't regret it!
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Old 06-02-2010, 10:41 PM #9
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Break that noid down!

Awesome job man, your light box is WIN!

What kinda lense is that on the 7D?
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Old 06-02-2010, 11:07 PM #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brules View Post
Break that noid down!

Awesome job man, your light box is WIN!

What kinda lense is that on the 7D?
The noid is essentially the same. Just look at Uziel's post

I don't use a light box! Haha. I'm using the 17-55 f/2.8 IS for these shots.

I used the 300mm for the outdoor shot of the GEO2 from my Violent trigger post.
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Old 06-02-2010, 11:57 PM #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xluben View Post
I don't use a light box! Haha. I'm using the 17-55 f/2.8 IS for these shots.
Have you shot any video with that lense? I am considering upgrading my camera body to possibly the 550 and I can't help but think that 1080p + that lense == awesome.
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Old 06-03-2010, 12:09 AM #12
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What is the dwell on the geo 2?
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Old 06-03-2010, 06:04 AM #13
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Couple of things:
1) The propshaft is actually pushed back by surface area differential between the o-ring at the front, and the o-ring at the rear of the propshaft stem. The bolt does produce a (very) small contributing force to the rearward movement, but the main rearward force that compresses the spring is from surface area differential. Yes it is a 14x2 at either end, but the rear one is more stretched than the front one and sits in a larger diameter groove.
2) in the solenoid operation, you say the back check ball cuts off supply to the firing chamber. This is not 100% correct. When the spool pack shifts when the solenoid is energized, the spool cuts off the air supply to the front of the can and the firing chamber, and simultaneously opens an exhaust path that dumps the air from the front of the can. if the back check is not there it would also dump the air from the firing chamber. But because the back check IS there, it allows the air in the front of the bolt to dump out, but stops the air dumping out of the firing chamber. It is a one-way control. It lets air into the firing chamber, but doesn't let it back out the same route.

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Old 06-03-2010, 09:27 AM #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chimpeh View Post
Have you shot any video with that lense? I am considering upgrading my camera body to possibly the 550 and I can't help but think that 1080p + that lense == awesome.
I don't shoot much video, but any of the paintball shooting videos I make are with that lens. It is extremely useful in many situations.

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Planet Eclipse GEO2
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Watch in HD!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HvNZc_FaDKg

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Quote:
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What is the dwell on the geo 2?
Why does that matter? 12.5ms

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack Wood View Post
Couple of things:
...
Jack
Thanks Jack. Updating now...
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Old 06-03-2010, 02:41 PM #15
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Old 06-06-2010, 09:29 PM #16
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Awesome thread. Thanks. Will be buying this at WC in Oct.
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Old 06-08-2010, 11:53 AM #17
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really nice pics.

is the hpr spring the same as in the geo1?
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Old 06-08-2010, 12:05 PM #18
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Quote:
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really nice pics.

is the hpr spring the same as in the geo1?
No. The new SL3 reg uses new springs for both Ego (on the SLS) and the Geo2. The design of the reg is completely different, so therefor needed different rate springs.

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Old 06-08-2010, 12:31 PM #19
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thanks for quick reply jack.
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Old 06-08-2010, 03:00 PM #20
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Thanks to all.

Glad Jack handled that question. I was not sure
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Old 06-16-2010, 11:30 PM #21
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Nicely done Ben!
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