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10-13-2012, 11:59 AM
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#1786
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can i put a luxe manifold on sft/nxt body? do it use the sames hole? can i use a sft noid with a luxe manifold and vice versa? Doing a project ans would like to know more about it... thanks
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10-13-2012, 12:02 PM
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#1787
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proud gmax owner!!!
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: woburn MA.
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Im not sure about the luxe manifold but to my knowledge the noids are identical minus the wire/upper board.
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10-20-2012, 06:15 PM
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#1788
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Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: SE Washington
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My stock shocker board has some weird problems? all of the firing modes are semi? anyone know how I could fix this? I will most likely buy a virtue board anyways but would like to fix it anyways.
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10-20-2012, 06:39 PM
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#1789
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proud gmax owner!!!
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: woburn MA.
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You've either got a semi only board or your not actually adjusting the firing mode like you think you are.
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10-20-2012, 07:51 PM
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#1790
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Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: SE Washington
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Hmm. Thanks for the response. I've done everything correct to the manual to my knowledge haha. Do you know of any well detailed vids?
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10-21-2012, 04:22 PM
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#1792
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Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: SE Washington
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Thanks a lot. I should have known to go to zdspb in the first place.
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10-23-2012, 07:45 PM
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#1793
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Rose, you're an idiot
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: I Chill in Ill
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so I was looking at a few of my spare bolts, and I noticed that I have a sprung HE with only one lurker hole in the back. I assume the more holes I drill, the more benefit? Is it worth it to put two more holes in the bolt?
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10-24-2012, 11:14 AM
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#1794
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AZN
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Wisconsin
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Got a SFT used and it seems as though the guy must have Red Loctited the frame screws and ball detent on the non eye side in place. Is a heat gun the general consensus for removal? Any tips on how to do this and will I have to be worried about melting the noid or anything like that?
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10-24-2012, 11:23 AM
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#1795
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Moon Penguin
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Lexington, NC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AO Nick O Time
Got a SFT used and it seems as though the guy must have Red Loctited the frame screws and ball detent on the non eye side in place. Is a heat gun the general consensus for removal? Any tips on how to do this and will I have to be worried about melting the noid or anything like that?
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I've had success using a hair dryer. It doesn't heat up enough to damage the anno or squishy bits, but it softens the red loctite enough to break it free.
Make sure you use a solid allen key with a tight fit. Try to use a newer key if you have it for a better fit....you're going to need a lot of torque to break it free, and you don't want it slipping.
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10-24-2012, 11:24 AM
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#1796
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proud gmax owner!!!
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: woburn MA.
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Heat yes. Doesn't have to be super hot so meltimg things is not realy an issue. If you end up stripping the detent an easy out will fit right in there and pull it out.
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10-24-2012, 02:17 PM
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#1797
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AZN
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Wisconsin
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So hair dryer I would assume on high. About how long do I have to keep it on the screw? Are we talking 1 minute, 5 minutes, or what?
Thanks,
Nik
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10-24-2012, 02:33 PM
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#1798
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Put a SPRING in it!!!
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Central Cal.
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You'll get the body of your shocker pretty darn warm before the Loctite will let loose. Won't burn your hands, but it'll be hot potato, hot potato!
__________________
Home of the Rhino Spring
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10-24-2012, 02:52 PM
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#1799
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AZN
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Wisconsin
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Oven mits it is then.
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10-24-2012, 07:27 PM
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#1800
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AZN
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Wisconsin
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So I tried to blow dry it. Left it on for 5 minutes straight and the gun was pretty warm/hotish. The screws did not budge and are now just about completely stripped. Any other ideas?
On a side note the gun got so warm by just blow drying by the rear frame screw that I was able to get the feed neck off. Yes that was Red Loctited in there as well.
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10-24-2012, 07:34 PM
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#1801
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proud gmax owner!!!
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: woburn MA.
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Im thinking your screws are just cranked on way to tight. You may end up having to cut slots in the screws to get a flat head screw driver in there to take them out.
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10-24-2012, 07:35 PM
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#1802
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Alex
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: 502
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i was about to suggest dremel and flat head... jim beats me to it 
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10-24-2012, 08:22 PM
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#1803
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AZN
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Wisconsin
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Time for a super steady hand huh. Well wish me luck.
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10-25-2012, 08:15 AM
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#1804
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Philadelphia, PA
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Hey Shocker gurus, I'm hoping you can help me identify a board. I picked up a used NXT yesterday and the LED is blue - steady blue for eyes on, blinking blue for eyes off. It also makes what I can only descripe as a chirping noise when the button is pressed (On, off, changing eye modes, etc). I don't recall stock shocker boards making noise. I took off the grips but could not see any brand name or anything written on the board. Before I pull the whole thing apart to get a look at it do any of you have any thoughts on what kind of board it might be?
Thanks so much!!
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10-25-2012, 09:28 AM
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#1805
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blazin'
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: CENTRAL FLORIDA
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Open the grip, if it's black, you have a black heart board.
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10-25-2012, 12:09 PM
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#1806
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Rose, you're an idiot
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: I Chill in Ill
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by eatafetus
so I was looking at a few of my spare bolts, and I noticed that I have a sprung HE with only one lurker hole in the back. I assume the more holes I drill, the more benefit? Is it worth it to put two more holes in the bolt?
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Sup.
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