[jim4130]

You can also check the used parts section on armorypaintball.com

[JL1988]

Originally Posted by jim4130

red loctite make sure to shake it up before use and give it a good 24 hours to cure before you apply air to it.

I know there are different numbers for loctite, what number should I be looking for?

[Box]

Originally Posted by straptrams91

ok, so this question is a bit more involved than the usual and i need a bit of help with it from you guys.



im attempting to figure out the configuration of the 4 leads for the eye sensor. im assuming the 1 and 2 labeled in the first schematic lead to the LED which would correspond to the top left and bottom left lead on the eye, while 3 and 4 (top and bottom right) lead to the sensor. Does it matter which is attached to the ground or power? im also assuming that while looking at the upper board schematic, 1 and 2 are the left most ports on the board, correct?

i plan on using a T-board for a project and want to use the stock eye sensor instead of dremeling the **** out the body to accept BB eyes

if anyone can tell me the order of each of these I would really appreciate it.
each of these four leads correspond to the LED ground, LED power, Sensor power, and Sensor ground according to Scenario Dreams. Im assuming this is the case for the shocker eye as well.

if someone could post or PM me that would be awesome.

straptrams,

http://www.haterpaintball.com/servle...Adapter/Detail

Proto matrixes use a 4pin ribbon eye connection much like the SFT eye. Perhaps this adapter will suit your needs.

[straptrams91]

Unfortunately the wiring harness that you showed me only has 3 wires leading off of it. Not sure how I would wire the board then.

[Box]

DM Eyes run both ground wires to a common pin socket. Looking straight at the face of the molex connector, if the connection ports are down, the two ground wires lead to the right most socket area.

That connector could probably be disassembled and wired back up to a 4 pin connector without all that much effort.

[stjimmy13]

I want one of those big bigger sized dynasty VAs the ones that made those giant rectangular regs looks flush. Where to get one? I have been scanning the "massive shocker part sale"s for a few weeks and can't find one

I got a macdev gladiator reg and really like them a lot, but they are bigger around than the stock VAs and it bugs me lol.

[jim4130]

The only place you'll find things like that are partouts and sometimes ebay. The only sites you'll get lucky to find it would be shockerrepair.com or armorypaintball.com

[CALLmeSANCHEZ]

so i need some help. just bought a used sft shocktech shocker from a local store. i aired it up and shot it a week ago and shot fine. i get to the field today and the gun wont cycle. when i try to shoot it i hear a small puff of air go through the gun, the bolt wont move and i can feel air come through where the trigger is. any help would be appreciated.

[jim4130]

Try a new battery first. Then if that dont work give the bolt kit a cleaning and relube

[BTrain]

Originally Posted by CALLmeSANCHEZ

so i need some help. just bought a used sft shocktech shocker from a local store. i aired it up and shot it a week ago and shot fine. i get to the field today and the gun wont cycle. when i try to shoot it i hear a small puff of air go through the gun, the bolt wont move and i can feel air come through where the trigger is. any help would be appreciated.

Also make sure the manifold and solenoid are tightened down properly. if tthese screws come loose you can also get a puff of air thru the trigger

[dblk22vball]

Does anyone know the size and pitch for the feedneck threads on right feed/power feed bodies? I know it is different than the vertical threads, but not sure what the actual values are.

[AO Nick O Time]

I am running a NXT Shocker but I am using 2k2 style Intimidator internals such as the board, eyes, and harnesses. I was running it using WAS 2.9 and the gun was shooting fine. Today I tried to drop a 2k2 style Tadao Intimidator board in and the gun cycled just fine. When running paint through the gun however the balls just stack in the barrel. I did not adjust the regs or anything while switching boards.

I have attempted to adjust the dwell and even up the reg input to no affect. It seems as though the bolt stops on the ball as though to pinch it, however the ball is already in the breach and just gets pushed lightly into the barrel.

[CALLmeSANCHEZ]

Originally Posted by jim4130

Try a new battery first. Then if that dont work give the bolt kit a cleaning and relube

Originally Posted by BTrain

Also make sure the manifold and solenoid are tightened down properly. if tthese screws come loose you can also get a puff of air thru the trigger

after i shot it i changed the dwell and recharge to make it 12.5 bps and inb the process i set the dwell too low :/ thanks anyways guys.

[Stupidity09]

Looking to go to the hardware store to buy lube for my shocker...is it dow 33 grease im looking for?


No paintball stores by me and I need the lube ASAP...cant buy off here

[fishballer06]

Yes

[jim4130]

Originally Posted by Stupidity09

Looking to go to the hardware store to buy lube for my shocker...is it dow 33 grease im looking for?


No paintball stores by me and I need the lube ASAP...cant buy off here

If you have a grainger near you they ussualy have both dow 33 and dow 55. Just makes sure they give you 33. You dont want 55 in a shocker.

[Sabb]

Which NXT private labels are the rarest?

Super noob question but I was curious.

[jim4130]

Tremor

[Sabb]

Probably should have mentioned I knew that haha

I was looking more for a list of production numbers and such.

[jim4130]

You fint any short of tracking down serial #'s

[OregonBaller11]

ive got an nxt with virtue and the eye logic seems to be acting odd. it recognizes a break in the beam just fine but if i fire without a ball in the breach the marker will cycle anyway and the board will blink with eye failure. What could be causing this?