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Old 10-23-2010, 07:31 PM #547
Uziel Gal
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Put the marker somewhere warm for a couple of days so that any moisure that got in to the board has a chance to evaporate. See if it works properly after that.

Last edited by Uziel Gal : 10-24-2010 at 01:07 PM. Reason: Typo.
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Old 10-25-2010, 09:45 PM #548
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Havn't been here or even paintballing in forever trying to sell my old gear anyone know what this gold vision shocker should sell for?

http://img203.imageshack.us/img203/2...025at19392.jpg

Pretty stock other than the barrel, he bolt and I think the trigger. any help would be greatly appreciated thanks.
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Old 10-25-2010, 09:53 PM #549
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spd6188
Havn't been here or even paintballing in forever trying to sell my old gear anyone know what this gold vision shocker should sell for?

http://img203.imageshack.us/img203/2...025at19392.jpg

Pretty stock other than the barrel, he bolt and I think the trigger. any help would be greatly appreciated thanks.
Maybe 100 tops
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Old 10-25-2010, 10:03 PM #550
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i have a nxt wit a leak its not coming down the barrel and you only feel it when you take the grips off which makes me think its ether the noid or the manifold any ideas? i took the noid apart and inspected the o rings and the manifold as well
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Old 10-25-2010, 10:15 PM #551
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Change the bolt sail oring. Also, take the body set screw's out and put some blue loctite on them
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Old 10-25-2010, 11:12 PM #552
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i it possible to shoot 12.5bps with the stock shocker board with a dwell of 8 or 10ms? i really need to know before i spend out on a hatred board.
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Old 10-26-2010, 05:26 AM #553
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You aren't going to get 12.5bps from the stock board with an 8ms dwell setting.

10ms and full re-charge delay would give you exactly 12.5bps, but personally, I'd not be looking to set my marker to exactly 12.5bps, just in case the tournament rate of fire counter didn't agree with the board's settings. You could of course easily lower the rate of fire by increasing the dwell, but then you'd not have the dwell settings you specified.

The Hater board would free you from having to adjust the dwell to get the rate of fire you wanted, but as a downside, doesn't have the fine adjustment that the stock board would have. The rate of fire for instance adjusts in 1bps steps, so the closest you would get to 12.5bps would be 12bps, but that is probably a safer setting anyway - you shouldn't fall foul of the ROF counter.
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Old 10-26-2010, 10:26 AM #554
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yeah, for some reason it read 12.5 on one chrono and 12.8 on another so thats not good in a tourney. Also, i like to run a low dwell like 8ms so a new board is needed..
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Old 10-26-2010, 01:08 PM #555
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i didnt desoldier the pins i just slowly pulled the upper board with a flat head

is there still going to be problems it came out straight pins and easy so it should be fine right just need to desoldier the pins now and put it on the new board or am i going to need to buy a new solenoid upper board combo
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Old 10-26-2010, 01:16 PM #556
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i have a nxt wit a leak its not coming down the barrel and you only feel it when you take the grips off which makes me think its ether the noid or the manifold any ideas? i took the noid apart and inspected the o rings and the manifold as well
Quote:
Originally Posted by fishballer06 View Post
Change the bolt sail oring. Also, take the body set screw's out and put some blue loctite on them
that didnt fix the leak
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Old 10-26-2010, 01:36 PM #557
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DAMninjaB3AR View Post
i have a nxt wit a leak its not coming down the barrel and you only feel it when you take the grips off which makes me think its ether the noid or the manifold any ideas? i took the noid apart and inspected the o rings and the manifold as well
Quote:
Originally Posted by fishballer06 View Post
Change the bolt sail oring. Also, take the body set screw's out and put some blue loctite on them
Quote:
Originally Posted by DAMninjaB3AR View Post
that didnt fix the leak
Did you put blue loctite on the body set screws and re-insert them? You need to give the loctite 12 hours to dry before airing the marker up and testing it out.

If you did do that, make sure all the manifold orings are good and that the manifold and solenoid are all snug and secure to create a good seal
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Old 10-28-2010, 06:03 PM #558
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Originally Posted by fishballer06 View Post
Did you put blue loctite on the body set screws and re-insert them? You need to give the loctite 12 hours to dry before airing the marker up and testing it out.

If you did do that, make sure all the manifold orings are good and that the manifold and solenoid are all snug and secure to create a good seal
how does lock tight help? all new orings on the blt/can/bolt guide and i checked the orings on the manofold and noid and manifold are snug but the leak still feels like its coming from the noid or the manifold area

Q if i took some lube died it green or yellow put some of the lube in the asa and aired it up would the potentially give ne a pin point area of the leak you think?
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Old 10-28-2010, 06:10 PM #559
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http://www.zdspb.com/tech/mguide/sho...ifoldleak.html
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Old 10-28-2010, 06:52 PM #560
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The loctite seals the seal on the body set screw since it is so small that you can't teflon it. Is the loctite is broken, the marker will continue to leak until you reloctite the screws and let it dry good.

Have you checked your solenoid inserts as well?
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Old 10-31-2010, 11:53 PM #561
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sup man, i recently bought a shocktech nxt shocker off ebay and the gun is in amazing condition and was working perfectly, but recently i am getting eye malfunction with the virtue eyes and board, the board flashes blue meanin eye malfunction but i have yet to play with my shocker due to tearing my acl back in april and am not fully recovered, so i know the eyes cant be dirty from play and i have yet to break paint and i have cleaned and rechecked all the connection settings and the eyes detect when theres a ball or no ball perfectly but its when i first pull the trigger does it then go into a capped rof due to eye malfuntion and then it returns to normal after i take my finger out , im stumped any suggestions would be mucho apperciato lol... i also would like to know if only 1 eye is supposed to be lit or are both i cant remember before they started not working
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Old 11-01-2010, 01:20 AM #562
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So you are shooting with your finger in the breech to simulate a ball? If so, that is why you are getting an eye error. The eye won't work correctly unless you actually shoot paint.

When your marker fires, the board expects the bolt to move forward, and the ball to be fired. So the breech should now be empty (in respect to the ball), but with the bolt now forwards, filling the breech and blocking the eyes. When the dwell expires, the board expects the bolt to then retract, clearing the breech and unblocking the eyes. The board then uses the marker's eye to check the breech, to confirm that the bolt has indeed retracted. Between the time of the bolt retracting, and the next ball loading, the breech should be empty, and the eye system will see that. The board then looks for the eyes to see a new ball entering the breech, at which point the board knows that the marker is ready to fire again.

If the eyes are constantly blocked - for instance, by you placing your finger in the breech - the eyes never see an empty breech, and the board cannot keep track of what is happening in the marker. It never sees the bolt retract, and cannot know when the next ball has fed in to the breech.

As such, the board assumes that there is something wrong with the eyes, and so reduces the rate of fire - the intention is to prevent chopping.

Quite simply, blocking the eyes constantly does not fool the board in to thinking there is a ball in the breech - quite the opposite, it prevents the board from knowing if there is a ball in the breech or not. In fact, blocking the eye constantly is a more accurate representation of there being paint on the eye, and the board acts accordingly by ignoring the dirty eye, and reducing the rate of fire to help prevent further paint breakage.
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Old 11-01-2010, 11:21 AM #563
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What will give me better performance: Shocktech Reg + Crossfire HP 4.5k or adjustable Max Flo right into the gun (I'd gut and plug the Shocktech inline)? I remember the days when you could run a Max Flo right into a gun without issue, but I just want to be sure I won't get wild performance without an inline reg. Thanks.
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Old 11-03-2010, 09:26 PM #564
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishballer06 View Post
The loctite seals the seal on the body set screw since it is so small that you can't teflon it. Is the loctite is broken, the marker will continue to leak until you reloctite the screws and let it dry good.

Have you checked your solenoid inserts as well?
so i got another shocker from a friend all it needed was some lube and a few orings on the bolt and can when i put the bolt back in the gun it started leaking from the same place as my other shocker(still not fixed) but i never took the frame off!!!!!! i neve touched anything other then the bolt guide,bolt and can im starting to feel i have bad luck with shockers
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Old 11-03-2010, 09:42 PM #565
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i have a waffle shocker and the trigger sucks. Ive cleaned it and adjusted everything. I think the micro switch is to light for the heavy trigger. Also it currently has a nerve board. Considering smart parts is out of business where can i buy a board that will either have a stronger micro switch or have nxl ramping to 12.5
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Old 11-04-2010, 01:32 AM #566
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nerobellum View Post
What will give me better performance: Shocktech Reg + Crossfire HP 4.5k or adjustable Max Flo right into the gun (I'd gut and plug the Shocktech inline)? I remember the days when you could run a Max Flo right into a gun without issue, but I just want to be sure I won't get wild performance without an inline reg. Thanks.
This can work perfectly well, but I used to find my adjustable Max-Flos were always a little dirt sensitive, and it didn't take much for the pressure to start creeping, which would obviously have a direct effect on consistency. The Max-Flos were designed to try and leak out any additional pressure, but you would still see some raise ion output pressure before this feature kicked in. As such, I ended up always using an inline reg with them (which obviously meant turning the Max-Flo output pressure 200psi or more over the markers operating pressure to feed the inline), so that the inline was controlling velocity rather than the Max-Flo.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DAMninjaB3AR View Post
so i got another shocker from a friend all it needed was some lube and a few orings on the bolt and can when i put the bolt back in the gun it started leaking from the same place as my other shocker(still not fixed) but i never took the frame off!!!!!! i neve touched anything other then the bolt guide,bolt and can im starting to feel i have bad luck with shockers
You said with your other Shocker that you had checked the manifold o-rings, but have you actually tried replacing them?

Quote:
Originally Posted by nicepants View Post
i have a waffle shocker and the trigger sucks. Ive cleaned it and adjusted everything. I think the micro switch is to light for the heavy trigger. Also it currently has a nerve board. Considering smart parts is out of business where can i buy a board that will either have a stronger micro switch or have nxl ramping to 12.5
The M7 version of the Tadao Dynasty board uses an 80 gram switch.
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Old 11-04-2010, 02:46 AM #567
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uziel you were right the guns fine, this is my first shocker so just trying to kno the works of the shocker, but thnx again fofr te quick response
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