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Old 08-10-2010, 10:03 PM #274
FatherSky
 
 
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My PL nxt shocker recently started leaking air inside. It shoots fine and the bolt doesnt stick. I can hear the noid clicking so that isnt it I just want to know what other parts it could be?
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Old 08-11-2010, 01:00 AM #275
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Any indication at all of where the air could be exiting from?
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Old 08-11-2010, 03:44 PM #276
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Its coming from the bolt chamber area I can hear if i put my ear onto the feedneck
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Old 08-11-2010, 03:58 PM #277
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Take the it apart and check out the orings on the firechamber cap. I just had this issue on my Shocker and that fixed it up.
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Old 08-11-2010, 04:07 PM #278
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Yep, if you are hearing the leak up the feed neck - and presumably down the barrel also - then chances are the problem is with the front bolt guide o-ring, the front inner firing can o-ring or the front outer firing can o-ring.
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Old 08-11-2010, 11:50 PM #279
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Yeah I fixed it. It had lube all over and it was very sloppy I cleaned everything and re lubed and it fixed the lube was blocking some tiny holes on the bolt and I figured that was it. But thanks for the help it was appreciated.
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Old 08-15-2010, 10:23 PM #280
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What will the effect be of me lowing my Dwell? I know in some markers it makes, a higher dwell setting will make it smoother, yet less efficient. Lower dwell settings more efficient, yet more kicky. Is this also true with Shockers? I put a sprung HE bolt in my SFT yesterday and it was a.ma.za.zing. I didn't touch the dwell tho...
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Old 08-16-2010, 12:25 AM #281
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thet View Post
What will the effect be of me lowing my Dwell? I know in some markers it makes, a higher dwell setting will make it smoother, yet less efficient. Lower dwell settings more efficient, yet more kicky. Is this also true with Shockers? I put a sprung HE bolt in my SFT yesterday and it was a.ma.za.zing. I didn't touch the dwell tho...
Without the spring mod, assuming your marker was tuned correctly to begin with, reducing dwell would most likely reduce velocity. You would then need to increase your HPR pressure to compensate for the velocity loss. That is where the extra kick would come from.

In the case of a sprung bolt, you can generally lower dwell, simply because the bolt opens quicker. Less dwell is needed to overcome bolt stick, and less time is needed to move the bolt forwards, and with the "valve" opening sooner, the time needed to empty the air in the firing can is also shortened a little - that all leads to shorter dwell, without any effect on velocity, and so no need to increase HPR.

Last edited by Uziel Gal : 08-16-2010 at 01:06 AM.
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Old 08-16-2010, 12:32 AM #282
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I had to lower my velocity. IDK what I was chronod at before, but after the spring was installed, I was at 380.
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Old 08-17-2010, 05:47 PM #283
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ok quick question, think i kno the answer just need a 2nd opinion.
friend handed me a box of parts that someone took his sft completly apart, couldnt figure out how to put it back together, asked if i could so he can sell it..
got it all back together (fixed the leak that the owner couldnt n therefor took it comopletly apart) went to shoot it and cant get the noid to click. tried different batteries, different board, wireharness ect. the upper board lights up and flashes when i pull the trigger, could it just be a bad noid? or what
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Old 08-17-2010, 05:53 PM #284
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Was the noid taken apart? If so it could be reassembled incorrectly I would suggest rebuilding that possibly. Or as you said it could just be a bad noid.
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Old 08-17-2010, 07:35 PM #285
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i dont kno, im thinkin bout takin it apart.....like i said, the guy tore it completly apart and took it to a friend of mine and said fix it...so i dont kno if it worked before i got my hands on it
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Old 08-17-2010, 08:01 PM #286
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worth a shot I guess to rip it apart and check it out.
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Old 08-20-2010, 02:16 AM #287
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I've tried everything for my sft shocker on zdna paintball and I'm still stuck with a manifold leak. I've replaced the noid, manifold, all o-rings, etc. I'm going to re-loctite the set screw under the manifold first thing tomorrow, but otherwise, I'm out of ideas. Suggestions?
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Old 08-20-2010, 08:14 AM #288
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Freakman21 View Post
ok quick question, think i kno the answer just need a 2nd opinion.
friend handed me a box of parts that someone took his sft completly apart, couldnt figure out how to put it back together, asked if i could so he can sell it..
got it all back together (fixed the leak that the owner couldnt n therefor took it comopletly apart) went to shoot it and cant get the noid to click. tried different batteries, different board, wireharness ect. the upper board lights up and flashes when i pull the trigger, could it just be a bad noid? or what
Sounds like you could have damaged the upper board. This usually happens if you screw in your grip screws too far and hit the upper board. Take the frame off and inspect the upper board. If you can see screw marks, that is most likely what you did.

Quote:
Originally Posted by D3r3kMorgan View Post
I've tried everything for my sft shocker on zdna paintball and I'm still stuck with a manifold leak. I've replaced the noid, manifold, all o-rings, etc. I'm going to re-loctite the set screw under the manifold first thing tomorrow, but otherwise, I'm out of ideas. Suggestions?
Have you checked your solenoid inserts and made sure they are properly aligned?
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Old 08-20-2010, 08:31 AM #289
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishballer06

Have you checked your solenoid inserts and made sure they are properly aligned?
I've adjusted the inserts in and out several times trying to get them aligned properly. obviously the inserts especially the left intake one control air flow, so all it really does is change the intensity of the leak when I move it in or out..

Again, hoping loctite is the problem. I remember when I first noticed the leak, I was doing trigger adjustments - Seems like the previous time I played I mustve set it off.
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Old 08-20-2010, 08:47 AM #290
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check the manifold spacer screws, make sure they're not too tight or too loose. they could even be broken off (yes, i've seen it happen)
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Old 08-20-2010, 12:03 PM #291
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishballer06
check the manifold spacer screws, make sure they're not too tight or too loose. they could even be broken off (yes, i've seen it happen)
Those the screws that hold the solenoid on? those screws are fine - However I haven't really checked much with the two screws that hold the manifold on the body- how tight must those two be?
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Old 08-20-2010, 12:13 PM #292
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Most all the screws should be good and snug nothing too crazy on the tightness.
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Old 08-20-2010, 05:26 PM #293
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[quote=fishballer06;67965706]Sounds like you could have damaged the upper board. This usually happens if you screw in your grip screws too far and hit the upper board. Take the frame off and inspect the upper board. If you can see screw marks, that is most likely what you did.



checked that....not damaged
like i said the guy brought it to my friend in a parts in a box so i put it together and thats the only problem i have left...
gave it back and told em that it was either a upper board/noid problem
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Old 08-22-2010, 10:50 PM #294
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TonTon NXT with New Designz ULP (wide open) can, New Designz bolt with the Rhino spring mod and polish mod, dwell around 60 chirps...
My marker is shooting in the 280's FPS at 120psi.
It is also very loud and has considerable kick.
I had all those mods done to lower the sound signature and kick, but I got the opposite.
Where to start?
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