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Old 03-22-2010, 09:29 PM #1
Rockin' and Cockin'
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Lower tube suggestions

Ive been looking around lately for a lower tube kit for my pump and i cant decide between the Check it kit or the CCM kit both are roughly the same price but I want to hear a testamonial of people that have used both or can give just some advice

~Vinny

Ps: I own a s6 so i know CCM makes a great gun and a reliable build
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Old 03-22-2010, 09:33 PM #2
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CCM is by far the best. You can also just get the springs if you are looking for a lighter pump stroke.
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Old 03-22-2010, 09:34 PM #3
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Cool

check it internals.
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Old 03-22-2010, 09:51 PM #4
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Old 03-22-2010, 09:59 PM #5
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Old 03-22-2010, 10:05 PM #6
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what is it going in?
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Old 03-22-2010, 11:46 PM #7
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what is it going in?
in my 2k2 wgp vert feed
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Old 03-23-2010, 08:35 AM #8
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I'd recommend the CCM lower internals.

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Old 03-23-2010, 12:06 PM #9
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what valve do you have in your sniper now? With a $10 spring kit and tuning, the stock valves are damn decent.
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Old 03-23-2010, 05:35 PM #10
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Quote:
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what valve do you have in your sniper now? With a $10 spring kit and tuning, the stock valves are damn decent.
Very true, I have maddman springs in mine with the stock valve and it's working great. Only thing is this damn twang is pissing me off a bit lol. I also heard that ccm springs with a stock valve works great
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Old 03-23-2010, 06:09 PM #11
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There has been a lot of controversy with the madman rocket valves. Some have had good luck and many have not been able to use them worth ****. If you have some brains in that skull of yours I would go with the rocket valve, it definitely seems like a tinkerers dream.
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Old 03-23-2010, 06:19 PM #12
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I'm cool with the "I want to change it because I can" theory, I've done it many times.
But most of those times, I learned "if it ain't broke ~ don't fix it".

Most aftermarket valves offer more in learning experience than performance.

I've found that a valve is a valve, and it's better to fine-tune what I have rather that start over with something different. Many of the moving parts wear in rather than wear out, gradually getting smoother as they adapt themselves to a particular set up. Even springs start out stiff and work themselves down to a consistant pressure through use.

It all comes down to balancing your springs against your air pressure. A valve with a higher flow will need pressure and less spring tension to allow it to stay open long enough to accelerate a paintball to 300 fps. A smaller ID valve will need higher pressure to allow the same amount of air through, and stronger springs to balance the higher pressure.

Now I'm just talking too much.
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Old 03-23-2010, 06:23 PM #13
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"if it ain't broke ~ don't fix it".
"if it aint broke, fix it untill it is
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Old 03-23-2010, 06:54 PM #14
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I messed with my internals for the knowledge. I have this rat valve that I haven't put in because it leaks. I think it's just a bad o-ring but I don't really need to put it in yet
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Old 03-24-2010, 01:15 AM #15
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I like stock internals with new springs. A Maddman Sear Spring (As a valve spring) and Green Main Spring works wonders on a Superstock with a CCM Pump Kit and Reg.

Reg is maybe 350PSI and IVG is one turn in and the gun chronos at 270 with no farting, even when holding the pump handle and a very light stroke.
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Old 03-24-2010, 01:53 AM #16
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You could use that small sear spring as the valve spring? Or am I mistaking what a sear spring is?
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Old 03-24-2010, 08:22 AM #17
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This is definitely a "Vs." thread.
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Old 03-24-2010, 03:30 PM #18
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Quote:
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I messed with my internals for the knowledge. I have this rat valve that I haven't put in because it leaks. I think it's just a bad o-ring but I don't really need to put it in yet
R.A.T. 3:16? With the nylon washer?

I put one of those into one of the markers, and learned that you should use a drop of superglue to hold that washer in place during assembly. Otherwise the washer fell over and would not seal when I put the grommet back in.
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Old 03-24-2010, 11:06 PM #19
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Quote:
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You could use that small sear spring as the valve spring? Or am I mistaking what a sear spring is?
Yes, because the spring is so light, it sweet spots very low.
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Old 03-24-2010, 11:31 PM #20
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CCM, the Checkit cupseals don't always seal well I found out today
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Old 03-25-2010, 11:34 AM #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pyrate Jim View Post
R.A.T. 3:16? With the nylon washer?

I put one of those into one of the markers, and learned that you should use a drop of superglue to hold that washer in place during assembly. Otherwise the washer fell over and would not seal when I put the grommet back in.
You must have had a loose one. Normally I have to put a little work into getting that piece out.
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