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Old 03-11-2010, 10:17 PM #1
evil_palmer
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08 Indy Cup seal

So I have an Indy with a scratch on the cup seal. I called up alien today to see if they had any in stock and how much they were. I was blown away when they said a cup seal was $35!!!

Is this the right price, are all alien consumables this costly? I have never paid more than $8.00 for a brand new cup seal for any poppet-style marker. Are there any substitutes out there, or are these cup seal pretty proprietary?

Thanks for the help,
Eric
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Old 03-11-2010, 11:33 PM #2
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is it leaking?
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Old 03-11-2010, 11:37 PM #3
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Old 03-12-2010, 12:06 AM #4
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I'll give you 200$ for your indy if you don't feel like paying 35$ for a cup seal
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Old 03-12-2010, 05:55 AM #5
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Wow, they're really charge that much for simple maintenance parts??

Holy...I guess maybe I don't want to get an Indy after all!!! Glad you posted that!!
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Old 03-12-2010, 09:16 AM #6
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First let's make sure we are talking the same thing - You have a scratch on the Staninless steel Cup seal vavle body or on the Delrin cap. Because yea a cap at $8 should include shipping and I have sometimes sent them for free. But a Valve body takes some time to make on an expensive piece of equipment. I went online and Spyder valve bodies are $19.99. I can't make them for what they make them for - mine have a raduis on the back wall and an oval opening, and they make them by the ten's of thousands at a time - so comparitively mine are cheap.
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Old 03-12-2010, 10:28 AM #7
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Pics of the damaged part would help a lot
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Old 03-12-2010, 01:03 PM #8
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Ya a ding in the metal on the valve is different from a scratch on the plastic cup.
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Old 03-12-2010, 01:04 PM #9
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its a scratch on the plastic cap, i will provide pics asap
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Old 03-12-2010, 01:57 PM #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack Rice View Post
First let's make sure we are talking the same thing - You have a scratch on the Staninless steel Cup seal vavle body or on the Delrin cap. Because yea a cap at $8 should include shipping and I have sometimes sent them for free. But a Valve body takes some time to make on an expensive piece of equipment. I went online and Spyder valve bodies are $19.99. I can't make them for what they make them for - mine have a raduis on the back wall and an oval opening, and they make them by the ten's of thousands at a time - so comparitively mine are cheap.


$8, now that sounds a lot more like what a cup seal should cost!!
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Old 03-12-2010, 04:59 PM #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack Rice View Post
First let's make sure we are talking the same thing - You have a scratch on the Staninless steel Cup seal vavle body or on the Delrin cap. Because yea a cap at $8 should include shipping and I have sometimes sent them for free. But a Valve body takes some time to make on an expensive piece of equipment. I went online and Spyder valve bodies are $19.99. I can't make them for what they make them for - mine have a raduis on the back wall and an oval opening, and they make them by the ten's of thousands at a time - so comparitively mine are cheap.
I think your issue is solved with the above quoted post from Jack. Mainly the bolded part. If the problem is the valve body there's always the option of trying to wet sand it to smooth it out, then cleaning it thoroughly and relubing it. If the cup seal is nicked you need to look for any kind of foreign matter inside the marker to make sure you don't have a problem else where. Cup seals don't just get nicked for no reason. Either you nicked it pulling it out/putting it in (or a previous owner did) or there's foreign matter in the gun.

Last edited by BillyBob79 : 03-13-2010 at 03:42 AM.
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Old 03-23-2010, 10:33 PM #12
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so i picked up an 08 indy cup seal and it fixed the problem, the only other question is that when i pulled the cup seal that was in the marker it was smaller than the one that I picked up. The smaller one does have more metal near the sealing face of the cup seal.

I just want to know which length of cup seal is the correct one to use. Here is a picture, I could not come to a conclusion based on the pictures from the manual:


Thank you,
Eric
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Old 03-23-2010, 11:00 PM #13
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my guess is that either one would work properly. The longer rod probably would allow the valve to open sooner in the ram stroke and open further. But as long as the shorter one is chronoing properly, opening the valve fully, and not adversely effecting performance it should still work. Did you buy it directly from Alien or did you get it from a KEE distributer?
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Old 03-23-2010, 11:09 PM #14
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the previous owner got the long cup seal straight from jack at psp phoenix, i will try both and see what happens

edit:
also a bit off topic will the new 2010 indy bolt fit in the 08, would love to get a bolt with seals
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Old 03-24-2010, 03:24 AM #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evil_palmer View Post
the previous owner got the long cup seal straight from jack at psp phoenix, i will try both and see what happens

edit:
also a bit off topic will the new 2010 indy bolt fit in the 08, would love to get a bolt with seals
it might not positive but it might.
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Old 03-25-2010, 11:07 AM #16
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I think the bolt geometry has stayed the same with (all) Aliens but the inner diameter needs to be right. A tight fit will induce too much friction and cause all sorts of fun. Not the least of which excessive wear in the top tube.

I could be totally wrong but I know the i.d. of the top tube has changed here and there with the bolt design. I've tried moving bolts around (just to see if they fit and such) between my 04 'Ceptor, Remains, 08ND and 09ND... some fit and some don't. Personally, I feel that o-rings are not needed with an open bolt gun. A good loader will negate any blowback you might encounter. Buying the Dye Rotor made my Aliens into utter chainsaws, all of them
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Old 03-25-2010, 12:07 PM #17
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You are right - the biggest change was the '08 - so those bolts don't fit in the rest of the guns because '08's have bigger bores (they weren't supposed too), andO-Rings... just slow the bolts down.
I too like the Rotors very much. We had to get the Prophecy Loaders set correctly, but once we did, they too, worked well. Set a Phophecy to where it is set so softly that it won't always feed and then set it just a bit higher - similiar to setting the LPR for shoot down and then a bit higher.
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Old 03-25-2010, 01:35 PM #18
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I know on my 09 the orings didn't really even sit any higher than the bolt did anyway so they bascially didn't do much. I'd rather run my bolt dry and not have to put any oil on it anyway. The oil just gets worked forward onto your paint. Dry is better.

Usually the ball has left the barrel before you feel that blowback so it doesn't really affect efficiency much.
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Old 04-11-2010, 02:12 PM #19
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do these belong anywhere in the 08 indy an will these fit ?

http://cgi.ebay.com/Black-Magic-Auto...item3a554bf343
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Old 04-11-2010, 03:24 PM #20
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The cup seal might fit, I have no clue what's in the photo though. Why not just call alien and get the proper one?
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Old 04-11-2010, 04:27 PM #21
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i did but noone picked up...
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