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Old 05-30-2011, 08:34 AM #925
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Ok, so I have a fun problem which I can not figure out.

Chronic low velocity, I have tried a new reg, fresh batteries, increasing the LPR, the HPR, and the dwell. There is a slight leak out of the set screw on the back right. One final thing was that it worked at altitude with that leak.

What am I missing?
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Old 05-30-2011, 12:40 PM #926
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post the settings and configuration
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Old 05-30-2011, 05:06 PM #927
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doom-king View Post
Ok, so I have a fun problem which I can not figure out.

Chronic low velocity, I have tried a new reg, fresh batteries, increasing the LPR, the HPR, and the dwell. There is a slight leak out of the set screw on the back right. One final thing was that it worked at altitude with that leak.

What am I missing?
Double check the gasket on the noid, if the passages are closed then no amount of tinkering can fix it, that's what hapened to me
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Old 05-30-2011, 06:04 PM #928
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Quote:
Originally Posted by langless28 View Post
Double check the gasket on the noid, if the passages are closed then no amount of tinkering can fix it, that's what hapened to me
^^^ happened to me too, but it effected speed.
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Old 05-30-2011, 07:01 PM #929
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Stock droid settings, and as for the gasket I cut it down to half of the original height, is that still to long?
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Old 05-31-2011, 05:55 AM #930
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Quote:
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Stock droid settings, and as for the gasket I cut it down to half of the original height, is that still to long?
Its not the height thats the problem, its the diameter of the holes that are restricting air flow. Try and open them up as much as you can. I used a drill bit by hand to open them up.
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Old 06-02-2011, 03:56 AM #931
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some pictures of the eye covers on the Evil as well as the VASA I have made tonight. The VASA has been made from scratch to match the OD of most regs so it blendes in nicely and it uses a standard bottle O-ring to seal around the holes and matches in with the radius of the body nice as well



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Old 06-02-2011, 11:42 PM #932
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AND DONE!

Well, almost. I forgot a tiny o-ring at work for the LPR, but everything else is set.









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Old 06-03-2011, 02:22 AM #933
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AND DONE!

Well, almost. I forgot a tiny o-ring at work for the LPR, but everything else is set.









looks nice luv the murder black

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Old 06-03-2011, 06:39 AM #934
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winner winner chicken dinner
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Old 06-05-2011, 07:32 AM #935
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Man that looks great!
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Old 06-05-2011, 03:57 PM #936
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Figured I'd show a few updated pictures of mine since I started working on it again. Ditched the borg frame, got a good deal on a PMR UL. Still using the borg board though. Rewired the screen so that it's down where the buttons would be on a UL. Rewired the batter clips, and micro switch, but it all fits, just barely. Had to mill out the frame just a tad under the grip to get the board to fit. Using an Acid Customs viking trigger I had laying around, still completely adjustable in every direction. Pretty happy with how it went. I'm thinking next I'm going to do something with the back of the bolt tube cut... maybe curve it a bit, the straight angle doesn't seem to match the gun.







Also, keep in mind this was all done on a manual mill, so it's not quite as fancy as some of the cnc'd guns out there. Also... I am very much not a machinist.
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Old 06-05-2011, 04:18 PM #937
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Looks good though.
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Old 06-05-2011, 05:07 PM #938
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That looks awesome! Which borg board are you using? Mine will have a PMR UL frame. I was thinking about the Cyborg board but if one with a screen fits...I'd rather go that route.

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Old 06-05-2011, 06:39 PM #939
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It's the borg/droid tadao yakuza board. You have to desolder the micro switch and battery terminals and solder on some wires to run to a microswitch and 9v clip. Then the screen is meant to be plugged into the board, so you just unplug it, and run wires from the plugs of the board to the screen where ever you want the screen to be. You also need to mill out a section of the frame to get your board to fit in there. Also, I dremeled the inside of the grip a little bit too. So... it's not too hard, but you definitely need to know how to solder pretty well, and need to mill or dremel the frame slightly. I can probably get some better shots of how I did it the next time I take it apart if people are interested.
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Old 06-05-2011, 07:39 PM #940
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Sounds like a deal. I can solder and de-solder and have a dremel. When I'm at that point, I'm sure I'll ask you for more details. Thanks!!!
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Old 06-08-2011, 11:17 PM #941
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Got a few update pics from Jared and thought I'd share. He just finished the adapter plate for T2 frame. Still need under body milling to run the eye wires.







Quote:
Originally Posted by DeathOfAllThings View Post
It's the borg/droid tadao yakuza board. You have to desolder the micro switch and battery terminals and solder on some wires to run to a microswitch and 9v clip. Then the screen is meant to be plugged into the board, so you just unplug it, and run wires from the plugs of the board to the screen where ever you want the screen to be. You also need to mill out a section of the frame to get your board to fit in there. Also, I dremeled the inside of the grip a little bit too. So... it's not too hard, but you definitely need to know how to solder pretty well, and need to mill or dremel the frame slightly. I can probably get some better shots of how I did it the next time I take it apart if people are interested.
That is by far the best looking UL frame mod I've seen.
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Old 06-09-2011, 02:03 PM #942
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o man i want a t2 frame so bad!
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Old 06-09-2011, 02:22 PM #943
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T2 frames do look great on these bodies, too bad they're so hard to find.
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Old 06-09-2011, 02:28 PM #944
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where have people been finding them? that icd owners group?

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Old 06-09-2011, 10:27 PM #945
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That's about the only place anyone has any. Bad part is, they have them on guns already.
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