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Old 02-25-2010, 07:08 AM #1
shaferbruce
 
 
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NEED A NME LE TRIGGER or one that will fit

anyone have any luck with finding aftermarket nme le triggers?? what triggers will fit from other guns if any??

also i have an issue with my new nme le i got today it seems like it will only shoot like 10bps. iam using a dye rotor so thats not the issue.

thanks
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Old 02-25-2010, 09:27 AM #2
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did you check the settings on the board?
check the ROF and the other modes.
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Old 02-25-2010, 03:49 PM #3
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Yes, make sure your rate of fire and eye mode are set correctly. I don't know how to program the board via trigger as as I always use the equalink cable and program it with my computer.

There was only ever one aftermarket trigger avialable for the NME that I'm aware of. It was a Delrin trigger made by Fireball Mountain. I don't think they are avialable anymore, but I have one that I'm not using. It's a wave or s style trigger. If you are intrested in it just PM me.
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Old 02-25-2010, 05:03 PM #4
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Here is a Brief Summary:

Solid Red: Dwell Programming Mode (Range: 4ms-50ms)
2 Part set up. First 1ms increments, then orange light will flash, then .1ms
increments. i.e. hold trigger to enter this mode, pull trigger six times then
wait for orange to flash, pull trigger 3 times = 6.3ms


Solid Green: Debounce Programming Mode (Range: 1ms-50ms)
1 trigger pull = 1ms


Solid Orange: Eye Mode (1-4 trigger pulls)
1 - Bypassed (13 CPS Limit)
2 - Eye Mode 1 (Uses ROF Cap)
3 - Eye Mode 2 (Monitors Bolt)
4 - Simulate Mode (Eyes Off and ROF unlimited)


Flickering Red: BIP Delay (Range: 1ms-50ms)
1 trigger pull = 1ms


Flickering Green: ROF Cap (Range: 10bps-30bps)
1 trigger pull = 1bps


Flickering Orange: Eye Power (Range: 1-20)

For NME LE or Updated Boards:
Alternating Orange/Green: Fire Mode (1-3 trigger pulls)
1 - NPPL (Semi-Auto)
2 - PSP (3 Shot Ramping)
3 - NXL (3 Shot Full-Auto)
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Old 02-25-2010, 11:49 PM #5
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so on the dwell i am in programming mode and i pull the trigger hold it down to enter dwell programming mode
the light flashes 8 times ( im guessing that its set to 8ms?)
i pulled the trigger 7 times to lower it and it went into its little light show and back to programming menu
what is this 2 part dwell program?


pmed you about the trigger

thanks for the help guys
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Old 02-26-2010, 06:56 AM #6
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The two part program allows you to program it into tenths of a millisecond. So for example you can have 7.4ms as opposed to just 7ms or 8ms. Haven't gotten that far yet in my tinkering with the nme but that is how it works. You change the dwell also to increase fps and accuracy (to a certain point).
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Old 02-26-2010, 08:17 AM #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zp8ntballAddict15 View Post
TERMINOLOGY
Dwell

Dwell is the amount of time that the solenoid will be activated. This
time is measured in milliseconds (1/1000th of a second). The user can
alter the Dwell only when in NORMAL mode. In COMPETITION
mode, the Dwell menu item is not available. Possible values are from
4.0ms to 50.0ms. The factory default is 7.0ms. Changes are made in
.1ms units via the trigger.
Increasing your Dwell will increase the velocity of your marker. If you
are experiencing a great variance in your chrono results, try increasing
your Dwell and lowering your high pressure regulator. If your dwell is
too low, consistency will suffer greatly.

Debounce

Debounce is the amount of time the trigger switch must be stable in
the up position before checking for another trigger pull. This time is
measured in milliseconds. The user can alter the Debounce only when
in NORMAL mode. In COMPETITION mode, the Debounce menu
item is not available. Possible values are from 2ms to 50ms. The factory
default is 10ms. Changes are made in 1ms units.
If you find that your marker is double firing, increase the Debounce
time. To make your marker fire faster due to being more responsive to
the trigger, decrease the Debounce time.

Eye Mode
The Eye Mode can be set to one of four different modes:
Bypass - The anti-chop system is disabled. When this occurs, the
maximum rate of fire is limited to 13 balls per second to help prevent
chopping of balls in the breech.
Eye Mode 1 - In this mode, the marker will not fire unless there is a
ball in the breech. This mode uses a rate of fire cap to determine the
speed of the cycling. The bolt is not monitored. Works with any type
of bolt.
Eye Mode 2 - In this mode, the marker will not fire unless there is a
ball in the breech. This mode works by monitoring the bolt position,
and thus the rate of fire is unlimited. This is the default eye mode.
Simulate - In this mode, a ball is simulated to be in the breech. This
allows you to fire the marker with just air, at the full speed that the
marker is capable of firing! This mode can be used for practicing trigger
pull methods, without wasting paint. DO NOT SHOOT PAINT IN
THIS MODE!

BIP Delay™
The BIP Delay™ is a feature that allows you to adjust for the differences
in the eye sensor, its installation, and the loader being used. If
the sensor is installed correctly, and base of the sensor is blacked out
(using a 'sharpie' or similar), the eye system will require very little BIP
Delay™ when using a fast loader. When using a slower gravity-feed
loader or if the eye sensor is not installed correctly, it may be necessary
to have a longer BIP Delay™ to prevent balls from being
chopped.
Possible values are from 1ms to 50ms. The factory default is 10ms.
Changes are made in 1ms units.

ROF Cap
The rate of fire (ROF) cap sets the maximum cycle speed of the marker
when Eye Mode 1 is used. Setting this value to low will reduce the
usable speed of the marker. Setting this value too high can cause
misfires if the marker pneumatics are very slow (stock configurations)
and a reflective type of bolt is used. If a non-reflective bolt is used, the
ROF cap should be set as high as possible.
Possible values are from 10 bps to 30 bps. The factory default is 20
bps. Changes are made in 1 bps units.

Eye Power
The eye power controls how much power the eye system uses when
transmitting infrared energy to the receiver. Setting this value too low
will cause problems if debris such paint, dirt, etc. is between the transmitter
and receiver. Setting this value too high can cause problems
with paint that uses a clear shell (the infrared is transmitted through
the shell).
Setting this value too high will ignore paintballs in the breech. The
higher the value, the more sensitive the eye system will be.
Possible values are from 1 to 20. The factory default is 10. Changes
are made in 1 unit increments.

Reset
This option will reset ALL of the settings to the factory default! If you
find that you are having problems remembering the factory defaults,
just use this option to reset your board and start over! The user can
Reset the board only when in NORMAL mode.

Thats straight out of the manual.




Maybe this will help eliminate some of the "what does this light mean" questions.
DO NOT SET YOUR DWELL BELOW 6ms!!!
Factory Reset is hold the Trigger for 6 sec. in programming mode.

Here is a Brief Summary:

Solid Red: Dwell Programming Mode (Range: 4ms-50ms)
2 Part set up. First 1ms increments, then orange light will flash, then .1ms
increments. i.e. hold trigger to enter this mode, pull trigger six times then
wait for orange to flash, pull trigger 3 times = 6.3ms


Solid Green: Debounce Programming Mode (Range: 1ms-50ms)
1 trigger pull = 1ms


Solid Orange: Eye Mode (1-4 trigger pulls)
1 - Bypassed (13 CPS Limit)
2 - Eye Mode 1 (Uses ROF Cap)
3 - Eye Mode 2 (Monitors Bolt)
4 - Simulate Mode (Eyes Off and ROF unlimited)


Flickering Red: BIP Delay (Range: 1ms-50ms)
1 trigger pull = 1ms


Flickering Green: ROF Cap (Range: 10bps-30bps)
1 trigger pull = 1bps


Flickering Orange: Eye Power (Range: 1-20)

For NME LE or Updated Boards:
Alternating Orange/Green: Fire Mode (1-3 trigger pulls)
1 - NPPL (Semi-Auto)
2 - PSP (3 Shot Ramping)
3 - NXL (3 Shot Full-Auto)

Most of this information and most answers to any questions about these settings and what they do can be found in this previous post Here Hopefully no one has anymore questions to post in this thread about what these settings do and what the programming lights mean.

Last edited by seriouslysilly : 02-26-2010 at 08:23 AM.
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Old 02-26-2010, 04:26 PM #9
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thanks, but I can't take credit for "copying and pasting"

Just some info I ran across while running into probs
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Old 02-27-2010, 03:15 AM #10
Tim Foolery
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The trigger is not your problem, however FBM makes a trigger. Poor shots per second often equates to a poorly tuned marker
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Old 03-01-2010, 07:46 PM #11
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ok so the board is set thanks guys now for my new issue... I did the timmy front block mod and I have a leak now comin from where the block sits against the body. I can pull the reg towards the barrel and it stops and when I let go it comes back. everything is tight leak is small but noticeable. did I need to change to bigger o rings on the block or would that even matter?
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Old 03-01-2010, 09:10 PM #12
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new or bigger o-rings, never had that problem on system x, but my rex and my spyder had similar problems.

Or just use epoxy,
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Old 03-02-2010, 06:38 AM #13
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yeah, I would replace the o-rings especially if you are using the o-rings that came with the front block. that should fix the problem.
If the leak is still there, I would check the hose & barb on the front block.

When you finish, show us a picture
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Old 03-02-2010, 08:36 AM #14
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havent worked on the leak yet but here is some pics for you and a little history on this gun for me....
got it last year in a box in a trade "just got back from the tech" according to this dude... i opened the box and the **** was in pieces with wood screws holding the frame together and on the body... not one single screw matched on this gun... every barb was broken.... needless to say this guy didnt make things right got a big - feedback from me and i tried contacting him and got nothing.... funny thing is i didnt ship my mag to him because he was "going to send me the money to fix the gun then i could ship the mag" never got a pm or a call or nothing from the dude after many attempts to get ahold of him i fixed the gun sold my mag and not its at this stage..... hope you like .... i would love to UL Frame it!!




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Old 03-02-2010, 03:49 PM #15
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Looks pretty nice. If you want to U/L frame it, look in the voided warranty section. There many people have U/L various markers there including intimidators. It should be just like U/L and intimidator. You might even be able to find a tutorial in the voided warranty seciton.
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Old 03-02-2010, 06:38 PM #16
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Interesting story on how you got the marker. Good thing you weren't ripped off.
What bolt is that, by the way?

Sorry for my newbness, what is U/L? ultralight?
Besides looks, does it have any other effect?
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Old 03-02-2010, 06:58 PM #17
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a ultralight frame off of a dye matrix. the bolt is factory with a evil pin and evil back jewel. nothing done but the front block mod so far
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Old 03-02-2010, 08:04 PM #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shaferbruce View Post
a ultralight frame off of a dye matrix. the bolt is factory with a evil pin and evil back jewel. nothing done but the front block mod so far
LOL, the bolt pics confused me a bit. It looked stock from the side, but when I saw the red ring on the back I was totally thrown off. The 2k2 timmy bolts are much longer than the NME bolts so I knew it couldn't be those.
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Old 03-03-2010, 02:28 AM #19
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I just looked closer at the pics. Is your front block and evil front block? Did you possibly buy a kit that included the evil LPR, front block, and reg? If so, that would explin the problem you are having. Pretty common with evil front blocks. They don't usually fit well. You can try some dow55 (apply liberally) to swell the orings. I think there might only be one oring on the evil front block? Can't remember. You could also try wrapping a bit of teflon tape around the tube on the front block that inserts into the body to make the fit tighter. You could also try an oring slid all the way back on that same tube. It would fit between the marker and the front block where they come together.
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Old 03-03-2010, 02:41 AM #20
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yes i got the kit off discountpaintball.com for 20 bucks....
ill try that when i get home from work.... i work 6pm to 6 am.... htc touch works wonders! thanks for the help and comments guys ill keep you updated!
anyone know where i can find a dust silver ul frame?!?! lol
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Old 03-13-2010, 02:28 PM #21
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gun is now leak free and up on the chopping block pm me if you interested in a trade for it....
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