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Old 02-17-2010, 07:01 PM #211
Pooty51
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Ultra high molecular weight polyethylene
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Old 02-17-2010, 09:53 PM #212
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pooty51 View Post
Has anybody really found NOX bolts to be bigger or smaller? Anybody do measurements. Could it just be large or small sail o-rings they put on?

Brand New stock luxe bolt
Outside diameter = .682
Inside diammeter = .561

If the bolts inside diameter is small it could also create drag and lead to problems.
did you use calipers or a Micrometer
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Old 02-17-2010, 10:06 PM #213
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did you use calipers or a Micrometer
Used calipers. Non digital.
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Old 02-19-2010, 09:33 AM #214
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I received my sprung and polished bolt today. I can tell you it is super smooth. Ill try to get a video up today of it in action. Nice work Pooty.
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Old 02-19-2010, 10:31 AM #215
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i have a spring modded nox bolt in my shocker with no issues, while i know the nox bolt for the luxe is smaller in diameter i dont think it would have an issue. but i will be sending my bolt out for this soon.
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Old 02-19-2010, 10:53 AM #216
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UHMW doesn't have the dimensional stability for it, which is a shame because machined UHMW is very slick.
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Old 02-19-2010, 11:07 AM #217
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Quote:
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UHMW doesn't have the dimensional stability for it, which is a shame because machined UHMW is very slick.
Elaborate on dimensional stability please.
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Old 02-19-2010, 12:11 PM #218
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ragin Cajun View Post
Elaborate on dimensional stability please.
It keeps popping in and out of our dimension

Kidding....I think it means it's unable to hold an accurate shape when milled because it bends too much. In other words, it has a low tolerance threshold.
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Old 02-19-2010, 12:21 PM #219
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Not exactly; that's more machineability, though the 2 are often related. I meant specifically volumetric variance with respect to temperature.

EDIT: This page shows a good comparison and is why many manufacturers, (Myself, NOX, Techt) are drawn to PET

http://www.quadrantepp.com/default.aspx?pageid=186
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Old 02-19-2010, 12:35 PM #220
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ragin Cajun View Post
I received my sprung and polished bolt today. I can tell you it is super smooth. Ill try to get a video up today of it in action. Nice work Pooty.
Are you running yours with the EF rod?
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Old 02-19-2010, 12:48 PM #221
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Quote:
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Are you running yours with the EF rod?
I didnt have enough air to get very many shots off. I did have my EFRod in there and there was no difference in how the gun shot.
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Old 02-19-2010, 12:58 PM #222
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I can't wait to shoot my luxe this weekend!
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Old 02-19-2010, 02:29 PM #223
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Anyone having issues with their SFT oring not sealing after polishing? I just got my parts in the mail...and during my preliminary testing continuously shot my eye plates off. I was under-boring with a .679 insert, so this may prove to be the issue. I'm out of air after preliminary testing...so I will have to get more air before I can determine if this is going to become a problem. I did go ahead and swap out the SFT oring with a new one and applied some dow 55 for when I can resume testing again. I am also finding that I had to up my HPR to achieve speed even at stock settings (dwell 14, fsdo 0, feather touch with manifold screw flush and feather touch screw still in place) once I dropped the polished and sprung parts in. Again...much more testing to do before I can draw any conclusions. The first outing is definitely not what I was expecting...but I was only got about 300 rounds through it. Not going to draw any firm conclusions by that.

Pooty...
Any input from you or any of your other preliminary testers.
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Old 02-19-2010, 02:46 PM #224
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I had the same issue with the SFT oring. I replaced the SFT and it helped a little, but I'll try the Dow 55 approach this weekend.
I too had to turn up my HPR to get it back to speed.
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Old 02-19-2010, 04:08 PM #225
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What is the sft o-ring? Very very simple. Find a better fitting o-ring. Problem fixed......Also try eclipse lube mixed with some sleek (dow33)


Feather touch out.
Manifold flush.
With polished parts its all about o-ring fitment.

Also check that paint to bore match..Always over bore a little.

Paintballs compress when shot. So never use a freak insert that holds onto balls.
If your detents come off, that sounds like bad paint or bad paint to barrel match.

Just teched and sprung a customesr luxe yesterday
=
Spring moded
Put his manifold flush
Took out the feather touch bolt
Changed all of his o-rings. Bolt guide,can,bolt and back caps inner oring. All with oringmonkeys black buna 70 harness o-rings.
Dwell 10 / fsdo 0.
Chrono at 295 . I got 3 293 chronos in a row. Very very nice. No kick at all...

Like the thread says- If your o-rings are tight to start off with, the spring mod can only push so hard.

Last edited by Pooty51 : 02-19-2010 at 04:10 PM.
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Old 02-19-2010, 04:21 PM #226
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Also, if you have questions regarding polished parts = please post them up in the polishing thread. That way we don’t confuse people.

I will answer any questions there regarding polished parts.
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Old 02-19-2010, 05:12 PM #227
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pooty51 View Post
What is the sft o-ring? Very very simple. Find a better fitting o-ring. Problem fixed......Also try eclipse lube mixed with some sleek (dow33)


Feather touch out.
Manifold flush.
With polished parts its all about o-ring fitment.

Also check that paint to bore match..Always over bore a little.

Paintballs compress when shot. So never use a freak insert that holds onto balls.
If your detents come off, that sounds like bad paint or bad paint to barrel match.

Just teched and sprung a customesr luxe yesterday
=
Spring moded
Put his manifold flush
Took out the feather touch bolt
Changed all of his o-rings. Bolt guide,can,bolt and back caps inner oring. All with oringmonkeys black buna 70 harness o-rings.
Dwell 10 / fsdo 0.
Chrono at 295 . I got 3 293 chronos in a row. Very very nice. No kick at all...

Like the thread says- If your o-rings are tight to start off with, the spring mod can only push so hard.
not trying to get this off-topic too much. But testing has shown. Under-boring is the best option. 2nd would be over-boring. Many people need efficiency and want the best over the chrono results. Under-boring provides that, and no, it doesn't blow the paint up.

But as far as people's sft oring problem. Your going to have to change the sft oring to a better fit or stop under-boring. You shave off the anno and some metal when you have this done and thats going to make it harder on the sft oring to seal and when you under-bore your gun it's going to cause too much back pressure and blow out your eye covers.
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Old 02-19-2010, 05:19 PM #228
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Everybody has there opinion on bore size. I dont always use the very best paint. I would rather over bore and not have a barrel break, then under bore and break that one oval ball. To each his own. I dont think I have ever used a bore size smaller then .689

Back on topic
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Old 02-19-2010, 05:44 PM #229
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pooty51 View Post
What is the sft o-ring? Very very simple. Find a better fitting o-ring. Problem fixed......Also try eclipse lube mixed with some sleek (dow33)


Feather touch out.
Manifold flush.
With polished parts its all about o-ring fitment.

Also check that paint to bore match..Always over bore a little.

Paintballs compress when shot. So never use a freak insert that holds onto balls.
If your detents come off, that sounds like bad paint or bad paint to barrel match.

Just teched and sprung a customesr luxe yesterday
=
Spring moded
Put his manifold flush
Took out the feather touch bolt
Changed all of his o-rings. Bolt guide,can,bolt and back caps inner oring. All with oringmonkeys black buna 70 harness o-rings.
Dwell 10 / fsdo 0.
Chrono at 295 . I got 3 293 chronos in a row. Very very nice. No kick at all...

Like the thread says- If your o-rings are tight to start off with, the spring mod can only push so hard.
SFT o-ring....the stands for Seal Forward Technology, and it is the o-ring at the front of the breach. The o-ring is suppose to seal of the breach once the bolt is in the forward direction. Also, it's not as simple as just getting a new o-ring. I had 5 spares, and non of them will seal completely up against the bolt. It's not terribly bad or anything...and I am still working with the o-ring selection. More to come on that

Now, with that being said...the debate over boring will go on and on...so lets take this out of the equation. Once I have more air, I will bore "paint-to-bore match" exactly and try that. I said that I am far from having drawn any conclusions on this. I only got out 300 rounds.

You say to remove the feather touch screw...why? The spring should decompress (expand) at what ever rate the feather touch screw allows, that being as air escapes the chamber. If the air in the chamber is enough to over come the force of the spring, then the spring should not be able to accelerate the dump. I see no reason for its removal in this application. I understand the manifold screw and adjustment of it will be affected...as the spring is compressed on the return stroke.

The biggest question that comes to my mind right now though, is why I would have to increase the inline pressure after the spring a polished parts were installed. As this is in direct opposition to what should happen. Again...very early stage here. I am running the o-rings which you hand selected and placed on the parts. So o-ring fitment should not be your go to remark for my questions thus far.

Again...I still have to tinker with it before I can debate with you on any real issues, as there may be none after I have time to look the matter over further. Just trying to get some input back from others, and what experiences other individuals are having as the parts and mod hit the hands of the end users.
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Old 02-19-2010, 05:59 PM #230
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As per my polishing post. I clearly state = I do my best to fit the correct o-rings in there. I also state that if you don't know how to fit o-rings do not have it done. So yes, correct o-ring fitment is the biggest issue with polished parts.

The shocker does not have a feather touch screw and an adjustment manifold. In my testing, I didn’t want to mess with these options.
The spring mod works great in the shocker without these options.
Sure, maybe somebody will come up with the perfect setting.
I just don't have the time to test every option.
I leave the feather touch option up to you guys...

I have had no issues with FPS loss. Every gun I have teched and also the gun in the video did not have fps loss. But every gun I work on, I remove the feather touch and back out the manifold.
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Old 02-19-2010, 06:04 PM #231
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Interesting. I just replaced my SFT o ring last night with just a random 017 that I picked out of my stash...sealed up for me. I changed it because my eye covers blew off a few times last Saturday. Let's hope this stops that from happening again. Was nice of all the players to stop everything and help me scour the field!



Quote:
Originally Posted by mitchega View Post
SFT o-ring....the stands for Seal Forward Technology, and it is the o-ring at the front of the breach. The o-ring is suppose to seal of the breach once the bolt is in the forward direction. Also, it's not as simple as just getting a new o-ring. I had 5 spares, and non of them will seal completely up against the bolt. It's not terribly bad or anything...and I am still working with the o-ring selection. More to come on that

Now, with that being said...the debate over boring will go on and on...so lets take this out of the equation. Once I have more air, I will bore "paint-to-bore match" exactly and try that. I said that I am far from having drawn any conclusions on this. I only got out 300 rounds.

You say to remove the feather touch screw...why? The spring should decompress (expand) at what ever rate the feather touch screw allows, that being as air escapes the chamber. If the air in the chamber is enough to over come the force of the spring, then the spring should not be able to accelerate the dump. I see no reason for its removal in this application. I understand the manifold screw and adjustment of it will be affected...as the spring is compressed on the return stroke.

The biggest question that comes to my mind right now though, is why I would have to increase the inline pressure after the spring a polished parts were installed. As this is in direct opposition to what should happen. Again...very early stage here. I am running the o-rings which you hand selected and placed on the parts. So o-ring fitment should not be your go to remark for my questions thus far.

Again...I still have to tinker with it before I can debate with you on any real issues, as there may be none after I have time to look the matter over further. Just trying to get some input back from others, and what experiences other individuals are having as the parts and mod hit the hands of the end users.
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