Q: What is it?
A: The Clone is the latest spool valve marker from MacDev. It is the successor to the Droid, MacDev's first spool valve marker released in 2008. The Clone is the most efficient spool valve marker.
Q: Where can I purchase the Clone?
A: MacDev USA
(If you know of other stores, please PM me and I will add them to the list)
Q: What does it compare to?
A: The Clone is comparable to its predecessor, the Droid, also the Luxe, DM/NT and other spool valve guns. The Clone is quiet, smooth, fast and highly efficient. Clone vs Victory, Droid vs Clone,
Q: I just got a Clone! What do I need do with it?
A: Go to your local paintball field and play! Simple as that. Put on the barrel, barrel bag, hopper & tank and bring it to the chrono. Follow the manual to adjust the Gladiator reg to reach the proper velocity. You do not need to modify any settings or anything else. If you encounter any problems, consult this FAQ for a solution.
Q: What do I need to do to it out of the box?
A: Nothing. The Clone works great right out of the box. Go buy some paint and play with it.
Q: What are the best settings to use?
A: Stock settings are the best. If you're playing in colder weather, you can increase the dwell to 14ms so it will be gentler on paint.
Q: How often should I perform regular maintenance?
A: It really depends on how much you use it. If you shoot a case or two every week, it's not a bad idea to clean it after you're done. The Clone, like the Droid, can keep on ticking even without regular maintenance performed, but I wouldn't go more than a month without doing it.
Q: Which lube is best?
A: Use MacDev Militia Lube for optimal performance. If you don't have any then any DOW 33 lube will work. Don't use thicker lubes like slick honey or hater marmalade. Also stay away from thinner lubes.
Q: Can I use oil in it?
A: NO! Only use the grease lubes mentioned above.
Q: Where is the serial # on the Clone?
A: It is on the bottom of the grip frame near the ASA on the left side of the gun underneath the grip
Q: Does the Clone need an HP (High Pressure) or LP (Low Pressure) tank?
A: The Clone can use either an HP or LP tank. It will not affect the operation of the marker.
Q: How long does it take to break in?
A: Out of the box it should perform quite well. Leave it at stock settings and just use it normally. After about 5-10 cases are shot through it, it should be broken in well. You can dry-fire it to break it in also. Regular use should wear in the internal parts & o-rings. While breaking it in, you may want to perform regular maintenance after each day of play, or at least after shooting a case through it.
Q: What should I change when using my Clone in cold weather?
A: If you have any barrel breaks, try using a smaller bore barrel. Less room for the ball to bounce around (if it's a tighter fit, more of the surface area of the ball is contacting the barrel surface, less air gets around the ball causing it to bounce around in the barrel).
If you have any breech breaks, try increasing the dwell. Bring it up to 14ms or so. That will let you drop the reg pressure so there's less force pushing the bolt and less force hitting the ball in the breech.
Also, turn down tension / force settings on your hopper so it is more gentle on the paint.
Q: Can I get more bores/inserts for the Shift barrel that comes with the Clone?
A: Yes. You can currently purchase a complete Shift Kit. A bore/insert kit for the Clone will be available soon also.
Q: What triggers work with it?
A: Any Clone or Cyborg RX/Droid trigger will work with it. Acid Customs, CP & Violent Products make triggers that work with the Clone
Q: Are there other boards available?
A: You can send your Clone board to Tadao to get their Yakuza software flashed on it for $35. Virtue has an OLED board for the Clone also (as of 11/16/10).
Q: Can I get more inserts for the Shift barrel that comes with it?
A: MacDev will have an insert kit available soon. Check http://macdev.net for details.
Q: Are there any other upgrades available?
A: Not yet.
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Leak from the ASA
Tighten the macroline fitting on the ASA
Leak from the barrel/breech
Relube the Power Tube tip o-ring first. If that does not fix it then replace that o-ring with a new 011-70 o-ring. If you still have problems, check/replace the interior front Bolt Keg o-ring, or the exterior front Bolt Keg o-ring.
Leak from the grip frame / solenoid
Replace the front two 17x1mm o-rings on the Valve.
Inconsistency? Drop off?
Perform regular maintenance on the RX2 Gladiator (RX2 maintenance video). If you still have problems, then try changing your battery.
Excess lube on your Drive Train?
Clean and re-lube the Drive Train as explained in this video
Breaking paint?
Some people have had issues with detents that were too hard and caused breaks. You can contact a MacDev tech for replacement detents. Also, some people have had success with softer Timmy detents.
Valve o-rings getting clipped?
Some people have had their middle Valve o-ring get clipped. Sometimes just replacing it with a new o-ring (17x1mm) fixes the problem. A new part to fix this problem will be made available soon under warranty.
Efficiency problems?
James' efficiency tips:
Quote:
Here are the causes and fix's for bad efficiency in the clone;
1/ the middle o-ring on the valve has failed. Replace and re lube. There are
new kegs available that are filtering out there through the techs. Jerry has
them in stock right now. These reduce the chance of the o-ring being
chopped.
2/ middle o-ring on the power tube has failed. Check this by pulling the
drivetrain apart and feeling if it is sealing correctly in the back of the
bolt where it sits. The size is a 10 x 1 if it needs replacing.
3/ leaks in the macro line fittings or hose. Even though small these can
help you gun chew through the gas! Make some soapy water with some dish
washing detergent and pour over the fittings and hose to help locate a leak.
4/ leaks in airsystem. Pretty much same as above.
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is this where the information will be posted about the updated valves and such? I saw a thread posted, but it was closed. kinda waiting to see when I can try for the updated parts.
is this where the information will be posted about the updated valves and such? I saw a thread posted, but it was closed. kinda waiting to see when I can try for the updated parts.
Yes. A thread will be posted when information is available.
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dumb question... just bought a clone and im the 3rd owner of this clone. previous owner said feedneck screw and keg has been updated but not grip and detents.
do i need to re-register to get grip and detents when it becomes available or can i just email macdevUSA and wait for reply??
dumb question... just bought a clone and im the 3rd owner of this clone. previous owner said feedneck screw and keg has been updated but not grip and detents.
do i need to re-register to get grip and detents when it becomes available or can i just email macdevUSA and wait for reply??
no you cannot re register a gun its already been done, just email macdev
What would be the most crucial o-rings on a clone? What would be worth changing/checking before a tournament to prevent any problems?
Check o-rings in response to the symptoms in the troubleshooting section. The ones that are likely to wear out faster are the Valve o-rings, the Power Tube tip and the Bolt Switch o-ring.
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I know the FAQ says that you can use either a HP or a LP tank with clones but is one prefered over another? and is there any adjustments that will need to be made to use a HP tank on a clone?
I know the FAQ says that you can use either a HP or a LP tank with clones but is one prefered over another? and is there any adjustments that will need to be made to use a HP tank on a clone?
No. You can use either one. You don't need to change anything.
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2/ middle o-ring on the power tube has failed. Check this by pulling the
drivetrain apart and feeling if it is sealing correctly in the back of the
bolt where it sits. The size is a 10 x 1 if it needs replacing.
Is 10x1 correct or is a 12 x1 (like on the picture in the manual) the fitting one???