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Old 09-05-2013, 08:38 PM #106
ArmyMan2112
 
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
i actually have a few questions about my DP G4.....
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Old 09-05-2013, 11:04 PM #107
CA_Tectonics
 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArmyMan2112 View Post
i actually have a few questions about my DP G4.....
Start up a thread of your own with your questions and we'll help you out.
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Old 11-18-2013, 05:53 PM #108
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Good job
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Old 12-30-2013, 11:34 AM #109
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Very nice guide thank you!
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Old 02-12-2014, 04:47 PM #110
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Nice thread thx!!
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Old 05-03-2015, 09:51 AM #111
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:-) Very interesting ! Thanks for share it !!
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Old 02-06-2016, 02:41 PM #112
Bmaxx
 
 
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Good info thanks.
I am returning to paintball after a long break and loving it. My two boys are coming out with me and I am having a hard time with the g3. I have cleaned and lubed with sl33k. Tried a few different hoppers and barrels but it keeps breaking paint bad. It seams like it's almost trying to blow balls back up into the hopper causing a huge mess. Only shooting in the 200fps range can't even seem to dial it up to proper speeds cause just shoots slop right away.
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Old 02-06-2016, 08:12 PM #113
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Might be the paint.

Break down the G3 and clean the breach, detents, eyes, etc. thoroughly. Once it is reassembled, use your finger and reach in the front (barrel off of course) and try and push the detents in. They should fairly easily.

Reset the regulator to 0 psi. Then start increasing the reg pressure in 1/8 to 1/4 turns - with eyes off and no paint - until the bolt cycles easily. Then add paint and eyes on, chrono and keep turning up the psi until you get the fps.
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Maroon and Polished Aluminum Dangerous Power Threshold
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Black and Silver Dangerous Power F8
APE Rampage board, VS bolt, magnet trigger kit, F8 gauge, REDZ barrel kit, Halo B w/ Exalt feedgate, PMI 68/4500
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Old 02-07-2016, 10:01 AM #114
Bmaxx
 
 
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Breach clean, detents seem smooth in and out, eyes clean. Don't feel any sharp or any burs. Used method u suggested. Did with no hopper lightly held finger over feed opening and destroys ball when enough air to shoot ball out.
Then..
Switched paint and after all the frustration and time trying to get to work it was just paint!!! Works perfect with a better quality paint.
The field we go to uses the valken infinity and I can't get it to shoot out of my sons g3
Thanks for the suggestions awesome site!!!
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Old 02-07-2016, 12:37 PM #115
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Glad you got it figured out . Sometimes it's the simplest thing.
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TechT bolt engine, REV-I & Disruptive barrel kits, Prophecy V2 w/ Empire feedgate, Crossfire SS 68/4500
Maroon and Polished Aluminum Dangerous Power Threshold
7th Element board, TechT bolt engine, magnet trigger kit, REV-I PMD, Sly Dual Carbon barrel kit, Prophecy V2, Crossfire SS 68/4500
Black and Silver Dangerous Power F8
APE Rampage board, VS bolt, magnet trigger kit, F8 gauge, REDZ barrel kit, Halo B w/ Exalt feedgate, PMI 68/4500
Polished Aluminum and Red Dangerous Power F8
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Old 05-18-2016, 12:48 PM #116
Rouskue
 
 
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Hello!
I have a big problem with my paintball gun (Inspire Nano V2) and I can't find help from anywhere, so I decided to post here and contact DP, because the marker is identical to DP G3 marker..
So the problem is the solenoid (atleast I think its the problem).
First when I bought this marker, it worked fine for about 2 games (30min total). Then it just stopped shooting and the solenoid stopped clicking completely, even when the eyes are off. I've had 3 new solenoids for this marker, and each of them did exactly the same(works fine for a moment, then dead). Okay, I opened up all these solenoids, and connected the 2 small wires inside the solenoid by myself. The marker started working perfectly, BUT it became very money spending and very strict about the battery I use on it. Any cheap producers 9V batteries doesn't work at all, if they work, they last only for couple fired shots. I have to change my 9V battery atleast 5 times to complete match that lasts 3 hours.. So 3 hours of shooting, about 1000-2000 balls total, atleast 5 new batteries? Not sure why, but Lithium Batteries didn't work on this product, it won't start at all if you replace normal 9V with a Lithium 9V, I've tried multiple different producers. The only working battery I've figured is "Duracell ULTRA 9V". I'm really into paintball, but this is making my motivation go down really hard.. And because I'm a student I can't afford to buy a new marker. Please help me, I'm hopeless.

Additional info: I have 2 motherboards and I've tried both of them.
Oh, and also the trigger thing isn't the problem, it clicks perfectly after I connected the wires by myself, it just uses so freakin much electricity... It seems like the batteries doesn't even go completely dead, they just lose a little bit charge and quit working..
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Old 05-18-2016, 03:54 PM #117
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Was there a battery drainage problem BEFORE you modified the wiring?

I'm willing to bet it is that modification that is causing the battery drainage issue. The reasoning for the solenoid to stop working is likely something else (spool sticking, dry spool, low battery, etc.).

Although you do state that it isn't the trigger fang, it could also be that and/or the activation point isn't being reached consistently - pre & post travel set screws may need adjusting.
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TechT bolt engine, REV-I & Disruptive barrel kits, Prophecy V2 w/ Empire feedgate, Crossfire SS 68/4500
Maroon and Polished Aluminum Dangerous Power Threshold
7th Element board, TechT bolt engine, magnet trigger kit, REV-I PMD, Sly Dual Carbon barrel kit, Prophecy V2, Crossfire SS 68/4500
Black and Silver Dangerous Power F8
APE Rampage board, VS bolt, magnet trigger kit, F8 gauge, REDZ barrel kit, Halo B w/ Exalt feedgate, PMI 68/4500
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Old 05-19-2016, 04:29 AM #118
Rouskue
 
 
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No I think not, but can't say for sure, because the solenoid didn't ever last more than 30mins, after that it stopped shooting and clicking.. It did the same for the 2 new solenoids I bought.
I only modified the wiring by connecting them better, but it may cause the drainage problem though.. But how can it be fixed then? Because the wires clearly seems to be the problem with the solenoids, due it always started working perfectly (except the drainage problem) after connecting the wires better.. It doesn't empty the batteries that I use(yes all the batteries are new), there is full charge on them, but it stops working after the charge goes like 3/4 or somewhat.
I've checked the trigger, the light flashes everytime I pull the trigger, so I don't think it's the fault.
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Old 05-19-2016, 12:55 PM #119
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The short lasting battery life sounds a lot like a short somewhere. The fact that it happens with 3 different noids that were modified would seem to point to that mod process. The likelihood that 3 new noids (without modification) exhibit the same battery drainage issue seems likely to be very low.

I think you have at least 2 unrelated problems. The original is the noids stopping after ~30 minutes. The second is the massive battery drainage.

1st - the noid stopping issue: There are several possibilities for this issue. Just to rattle off......battery level, battery type (yes, it makes a difference - cheap batteries don't have a great capacity and die quickly), bad electrical connections, solder points of wires, lube (too sticky or too dry), o-ring damage (although this usually results in a leak), damaged board component, damaged or bad noid (although having 3 new ones all be damaged or bad seems very unlikely), too high of input air pressure, too low of input air pressure, trigger adjustment screws needing adjustment, trigger fang not reflecting (for optical switch boards), bolt stick, noid spool/spring not assembled correctly, noid and battery connecters incorrectly swapped on board (meaning the noid is plugged into the battery connector and vise versa). I'm probably missing a few more.

2nd - the battery drainage issue: This should have far less possibilities since it is a very uncommon thing - especially for the time periods you are talking about (within minutes to a couple hours). Just to rattle off......short somewhere (either board or wiring), damaged or failing component on board, battery level, battery type (same reasoning as stated above), noid and battery connecters incorrectly swapped on board (meaning the noid is plugged into the battery connector and vise versa). Again, I may be missing a few more.

Some of the things listed above can be fairly easily ruled out based on what you have stated but I wanted to list them as possibilities. I think at this point, you need to correct the battery drainage issue first THEN go after why the noid doesn't click after a half hour of use. Things to try for drainage issue is try a different/new board, different/new noid (that has not been modified), double check wire connections all around so that they are correct and not shorting anywhere, use a good, and new, name-brand battery (Energizer or Duracell), and look for dirtiness like paint on connections/board. Once the drainage issue is worked out, then tackle the noid stopping issue you originally noted because once a battery drops down below a certain voltage, the noid won't work anyway. Paintball electronic components require a certain power lever and consistent current flow to operate correctly.
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Graphite Dangerous Power REV-I
TechT bolt engine, REV-I & Disruptive barrel kits, Prophecy V2 w/ Empire feedgate, Crossfire SS 68/4500
Maroon and Polished Aluminum Dangerous Power Threshold
7th Element board, TechT bolt engine, magnet trigger kit, REV-I PMD, Sly Dual Carbon barrel kit, Prophecy V2, Crossfire SS 68/4500
Black and Silver Dangerous Power F8
APE Rampage board, VS bolt, magnet trigger kit, F8 gauge, REDZ barrel kit, Halo B w/ Exalt feedgate, PMI 68/4500
Polished Aluminum and Red Dangerous Power F8
Virtue board, VS bolt, magnet trigger kit, Halo B w/ Exalt feedgate, PMI 68/4500
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