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Old 01-11-2010, 10:25 PM #1
x17 PROTO 17x
 
 
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Custom paint

i just started sanding my diablo wrath so that i could paint it, but ive herd that paint wont stick to it good since its been anodized or something ... whats the best way to home paint it?
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Old 01-11-2010, 10:28 PM #2
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it would have been best for you to read up before you started sanding it
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Old 01-14-2010, 07:29 PM #3
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I dont see why the paint wont stick to it. As for paint id use some decent paint atleast.
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Old 01-15-2010, 03:43 AM #4
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Firstly, you are proposing to use (presumably) a spray paint of some sort. It's vital that you realize the body of most markers are metal and a highly non-porous metal at that. Spray paint does not adhere very well to smooth surfaces and even if you use sand paper to rough up the surface some it will only slightly increase your sticky factor. Paintball is a rough sport involving lots of contact to the marker and exposure to liquid paint and frequent changes in temperature as well and all these, not to mention general bumping and running into things, take a huge toll on any finish the marker may have on it. Speaking from my own experience, spraying a gun just won't last. Even though I did hours upon hours of prep and cleaning off oils and such before spraying, even the most expensive spray paints don't last on a paintball gun. Also, consider the parts you paint and potential contact with moving parts as friction and loose paint particles can also adversely affect your game.
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Old 01-15-2010, 04:22 AM #5
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Wow Wer very well said i would of suggested trying it on a marker that means nothing to you.

i have an old spyder and wanted to try a mirage finish well its been sanded, primed, undercoated, painted, and topcoated 3 times and i am still not sure this paint will stay but i don't care it was a garbage spyder.
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Old 01-15-2010, 07:50 AM #6
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so your painting...paint?
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Old 01-15-2010, 09:49 AM #7
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anno is not paint and the undercoat was required to get the affect i needed
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Old 01-16-2010, 05:49 AM #8
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First off, your not in as much trouble as a lot of people here at the nation would like you to believe.
What you shouldn't do is sand it. That is a poor method for removing anno.
You should get it blasted with 120 grit aluminum oxide to keep from getting particle scratch and it will leave an almost invisible but paint friendly texture to the metal.
Then you'll either want to have it duracoated or cerakoted.

What you heard about regular spray paint is right.
It sucks for paintball use. For one, it will rub right off in short time and it will not hold well the first time a little splatter gets on it. It will just scale off and leave your marker looking like Freddy Krueger.

Anyhow about your options....
Both duracoat and cerakote coatings are like paint in application, although both must be applied with an airbrush.

Duracoat
http://www.lauerweaponry.com/item-de...TOKEN=57796961

Duracoat is a type of epoxy paint, chemically bonded with separate hardeners you must mix in right before application.
It an intermediate process that can be learned pretty quickly.
There are multiple companies out there that offer the service of painting them for you, including me.
The colors selection is very wide and the duracoat its self is reasonably cheap.
The bond is very good hence you prep the media right before you spray it.
It is as good as anodizing in my eyes, yet offers the option of unlimited coloring, including matte finishes at a fraction of the cost over all for what you can do with it. Sky and talents the limit.

Cerakote
http://www.nicindustries.com/firearm_coatings.php

Cerakote I am not as familiar with, however I do know a few things about it.
Its more expensive, but it is the strongest by far, far surpassing even hard coat anodizing in strength and abrasion resistance, thus making your marker better in durability that is was to begin with.
Its the best of the best, but your going to pay for it.
There are fewer companies that offer this service, but look out!
Expect to shell out a good $5-600 plus for the application for something sized like a small paintball marker in one or two colors max.
Although that is not the limit of colors, just more than you would already want to pay. Its serious business, but it will outlast your marker point blank.

So hope this helps, as beside these you would just want to get it re-anodized.

A few example pics for you...

Duracoat






Cerakote



Yep, pretty plain. Like I said, there aren't to many people out there that even really know anything about it. You will find the best pictures in the gallery of the Ceracoat website I left above.
They copyright everything, so I couldn't post them.
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Last edited by WarCowboy : 01-16-2010 at 06:01 AM.
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Old 01-17-2010, 12:10 AM #9
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You can strip the anodized coating off with Easy Off oven cleaner...It's not the funnest stuff to work with, but it works. Then sand it, and use an aluminum specific primer. I think it's Zinc Chromate (used for auto painting), and then use high quality paint for your end result. May not last forever, but it will certainly last a lot longer than rattle can stuff and crap prep. Or, send it in to www.hydro-dip.com and have them do it up for you. You can go crazy with that dip processed stuff.
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Old 01-17-2010, 01:51 AM #10
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Yeah, you can also expect to see that dip stuff wear right off in short time where you handle it. I have messed with that to, and it always rubs off white where its getting touched frequently. And its not something your going to do at home like this guy is wanting to do.
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Old 01-17-2010, 02:06 AM #11
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I hear ya, but he may spend as much trying to paint as it would be to dip in the end. Just an alternative. The place I linked above seem to have "Levels" of durability. They do stuff from the basic up to aerospace. I spoke with a guy there in regards to another project I had in mind, and he explained to me extensively the differences and levels of impact and contact things can endure. I personally haven't yet done anything like this. Did ano my gun though and really like it.
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Old 01-17-2010, 08:04 PM #12
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Well I would have to test out the levels then, as that's the first person I have heard that offers different strengths.
And yeah, you really can't go wrong with ano, so I can see why you went that route.
But as for the duracoat expense, its not that much if you do it yourself.
The paint is roughly $18 a color that will coat several markers per one.
A cheap airbrush will do the job to, so long as you keep the pressure consistent. This is a problem when using Co2 as a propellant, since it likes to freeze up with long sprays. However you can remedy this by just laying the canister in a bowl of warm water while you work.
The whole thing with one or two colors wouldn't cost more than $50-$70 if you go with a walmart brush and one or two colors.
I have an advantage with the process however, because I have a roland Camm1 24" vinyl cutter. This allows me to make mask for anything desired using masking vinyl. I can cut it, lay it, spray it. Nice and simple, perfect results.



Here is a vid to watch the cutter work.



Note that these are very large cuts, but I can get down to 1/8" lettering if needed, or cut patterns such as camo stencils like digital and so on.
Really the sky is the limit to what it can cut.
I use a program called Corel draw to make what I want to cut.
Only takes a little while depending on how complex the pattern your wanting.
The cutter it's self does its job in short order.
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Old 01-17-2010, 11:54 PM #13
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I have a graphtec ce5000-60 and can layout patterns/designs too. I would suggest a better air source than the co2 canisters and a moisture trap. Personally, I spray with Iwata Hi-Line HP-CS airbrushes, but that is mainly for R/C stuff. Not too familiar with this Duracoat paint though.

As for the different levels, he said they depend on the use. If you are doing a car wheel or firearm, they need to be more durable than a pair of sunglasses or car dash that doesn't get handled much. Also, doing aerospace/airplane parts, they have to hold up as well.
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Old 01-18-2010, 03:08 AM #14
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Yeah, well your preaching to pope about good setups being relivant, but I know it can be done with Co2, because I have done it.
Granted it does better with a good setup, but it can be done almost as well with a cheapy if you use masking.

Duracoat can be compared to the thickness of poly based RC paints in since.

Here are some of the markers I painted with duracoat and the setup I used.

Sparmax5000 dual moisture trap compressor, and an Iwata Kustom TR




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Old 01-18-2010, 04:51 AM #15
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You know, I always thought about possibly Duracoating my Tapco stock for my SKS. After seeing your examples, Warcowboy, I think it's become a must! I love how the Multi-Cam came out on the PS-90 body. Needs a touch more green, but pretty spot on.

Did you do that work? I may have a job for you sometime soon then...
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Old 01-19-2010, 04:20 AM #16
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Appreciate the compliment.
And yes those are all sprayed by me. And yes your right about the multicam needing more green, but that was the first time I tried that pattern and it was something I will fix the next time I do one.
But overall I was pretty happy with it.
And yeah, I have been preaching duracoat since I first seen it and messed with it myself. The stuff is great for anything you could want color wise.
And its stupid strong once its dried. There is an art to working with it, but then again, there is an art to working with any paint.
The sweet thing is that you can buy just about any color you can imagine, and if they don't have the shade your after, its nothing to mix it to a color suitable. They have white and black for shading hues, so anything with the spectrum in mind is a possibility. I always wanted to do something radical with neons or non camo colors on something like a speed ball setup.
The right patterns in place it would be sick!
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