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Old 01-08-2010, 04:39 PM #1
aznpaintball111
 
 
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picked up a BlackMagic.. HELP!?

New to autocockers so i have no idea..
Picked up a purple to green fade Blackmagic today on craigslist

They say it hasnt been used for 2-3 years

When i air it up it leaks straight down the barrel.
What do i do?

How and what do i clean and lube before i air up the gun again?
Is there a walk through thread or video? Cant seem to find one.

How does the bolt pin come out? I've been pullin on it and its not moving. Its a black bolt pin, is there any special way to remove it?



Thanks.
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Old 01-08-2010, 04:53 PM #2
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Make sure you cock the gun before you air it up. (pull back the backblock untill you hear it click) That should stop any leak it has down the barrel after being aired up.. if not and its still leaking, let me know.

And check the stickies for maintenance and the such but you could always drop a lil bit of oil into the ASA after a weekend of play then point down the gun and dry fire it 20 times.. that will spread the oil through the reg and everything for some quick maintenance.

And for the bolt pin - if the bolt itself has a screw at the end.. try loosening that a little, then try to pull out the pin.
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Old 01-08-2010, 05:02 PM #3
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and and and....make sure the whole in the bolt is facing dowwwwwwwwwn
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Old 01-09-2010, 07:16 AM #4
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Took the gun apart. Bolt was in there right, cleaned out everything but the valve.

When i air it up, Air rushes right down the barrel and if i cock the bolt back then air it up the air still leaks down the barrel and then draws the bolt in.

any ideas?

Could it be the cup seal?
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Old 01-09-2010, 07:33 AM #5
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It will pull the bolt it when it gets aired up. So you pull the back block all the way back to where if you pull the trigger it would fire. If that's what your doing and it is still leaking then idk. Try dry giring the gun a few times after you air it up. That may stop it.
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Old 01-09-2010, 07:53 AM #6
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When i air it up the air does not cock the bolt back.

When i cock the bolt THEN air it up the bolt moves foward slowly while leaking.

Gun will not dry fire atm, Just leaking like hell

Anymore ideas?
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Old 01-09-2010, 08:07 AM #7
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ummm im no expert hell i have a hard time with my own cocker but just from reading problems that other people have.

i would try turning up your lpr as it does not have the pressure needed to hold back the bolt and i would take your valve out and inspect the cup seal that usually seems to be the issue whenever cocking it does not solve the problem

p.s. i would check the pressure on your reg it might be too high but that my .02
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Old 01-09-2010, 10:03 AM #8
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Is there anywhere or any video that shows step by step on how to remove the cup seal?
Does that mean id have to remove the valve in order to get to the seal?
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Old 01-10-2010, 03:51 AM #9
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Originally Posted by aznpaintball111 View Post
Is there anywhere or any video that shows step by step on how to remove the cup seal?
Does that mean id have to remove the valve in order to get to the seal?
Don't know about the video but i would take the valve out and check it, also check to make sure that there is a valve spring in there. Also you need a valve tool to take the valve out.
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Old 01-10-2010, 11:16 AM #10
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If the bolt is moving forward on its own, there has to be something pushing it. That means the ram, which means the ram is getting a little bit of pressure when it shouldn't. Sounds like the 3-way is leaking. Are you sure it's not leaking down the barrel? Put your finger over the hole on the end of the 3-way and see if it's leaking from there rather than the barrel.

You're going to have to slightly disassemble the marker to get the 3-way apart. You can try to relube it (I had to use some thicker paintball grease on mine rather than Gold Cup oil to keep it from leaking), but it's not a bad idea to replace the o-rings while it's apart.

If it really is leaking down the barrel, then yes, the cup seal is leaking. You do have to remove the valve to get that out, which means you need a valve tool. It's really not that big a deal unless you're mechanically inept, but you're probably going to have to do a little retiming of the marker when all's said and done.

Go here and read all of the appropriate tech articles before you take anything apart.

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Old 01-10-2010, 02:45 PM #11
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OK, before you air up the gun. look at the cocking rod...



now cock it. (pull it back)

now you may air up.

if you back block was in the "back position" it should now be in the "forward position" look at the operation of the gun here.




if you have a leak still coming down the barrel, from inside the gun.
then that means you can isolate the problem to your valve,
problems that can cause the valve to leak,

cupseal bad, or dirty
valve oring bad
valve installed incorrectly (you will need a valve tool)
pressure too low, can cause the valve not to seal on some.
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Old 01-12-2010, 04:30 AM #12
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cock the gun before you air it up. the leak down the barrel comes from the hammer resting against the valve and causing a slight leak. cocking it pulls the hammer back. its normal for cockers.

if you still hear a leak from the body of the gun, then you will probably want to replace the cupseal or valve o-rings. to do so you will want a valve tool, otherwise its very simple to do, it should be easy enough to find a guide.

the bolt will go to the forward position when its aired up. its a closed bolt gun remember. that means the bolt is in the forward position at rest.

if its leaking from the front of the gun around the pneumatics, its most likely the 3 way. either the o-rings are bad or its out of adjustment. loosen the 3 way shaft from the coupler and pull it out and inspect the o-rings. pay attention to how far it was threaded onto the coupler.


OR....it could just be that the gun has sat for a long time and all the o-rigns are just dry. put a generous amount of 3 in 1 or your favorite paintball oil (they are the same thing) in the asa and dryfire the **** out of it.

very nice orracle btw. looks like it has a CCM bolt and aftermarket ram...which could also be a ccm, im not sure what they look like, but thats my guess.

edit: oh, its actually a black to green, wgp's "black" just looks a little purple-ish lol.
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Old 01-12-2010, 06:57 PM #13
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cock the gun before you air it up. the leak down the barrel comes from the hammer resting against the valve and causing a slight leak. cocking it pulls the hammer back. its normal for cockers.
I would not call this "normal' as none of the cockers that I work on or take care of do it. The ones that do it, have too low of an input PSI and too high of spring tension on the hammer. However, the marker will still work, just not at the best air eff.

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if you still hear a leak from the body of the gun, then you will probably want to replace the cupseal or valve o-rings. to do so you will want a valve tool, otherwise its very simple to do, it should be easy enough to find a guide.
While odds are if it still leaks you will need to replace the body o-rings or cup seal, you MIGHT, MAYBE will get away with lubing the hell out of it and cycling the marker. So first thing is first, you need to correct the timing so you can atleast start to dryfire/cycle the marker.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Rebel_816 View Post
if its leaking from the front of the gun around the pneumatics, its most likely the 3 way. either the o-rings are bad or its out of adjustment. loosen the 3 way shaft from the coupler and pull it out and inspect the o-rings. pay attention to how far it was threaded onto the coupler.
Odds are he is correct, but it could be MANY MANY other things..


Quote:
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OR....it could just be that the gun has sat for a long time and all the o-rigns are just dry. put a generous amount of 3 in 1 or your favorite paintball oil (they are the same thing) in the asa and dryfire the **** out of it.
. 3 in 1 and a good paintball lube ARE NOT the same thing. 3 in 1 will swell the o-rings....however, if yours are dryed out, this could be a good thing.

Quote:
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very nice orracle btw. looks like it has a CCM bolt and aftermarket ram...which could also be a ccm, im not sure what they look like, but thats my guess.
That is not an Orry. That is a 1st gen BM....

THIS is an ORRY...




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Old 01-12-2010, 09:52 PM #14
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whoops i said orracle...

trust me i know the difference between the bodies.

manual says use 3 in 1.
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Old 01-14-2010, 09:26 PM #15
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hmm pevs pro shop didnt have a cup seal or the valve tool -_-

anyone got a cupseal and valve tool i can buy? lmk
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