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Old 12-30-2009, 07:20 PM #106
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cocker tap? what kind? pm me.
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Old 01-01-2010, 01:22 PM #107
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If the problem was with the resin not soaking through all the layers of CF to make the inside clean, why not pre-soak the first (and maybe second) layer. Messy as hell to get them in place, but it should pretty much guarantee that the insides are smooth.
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Old 01-01-2010, 02:34 PM #108
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If the problem was with the resin not soaking through all the layers of CF to make the inside clean, why not pre-soak the first (and maybe second) layer. Messy as hell to get them in place, but it should pretty much guarantee that the insides are smooth.
well I was going to try this, and I even made the test piece pictured earlier, but there is still the presence of air pockets in the resin. They are TINY, but it doesn't take much to make an oring leak. So i decided to use a solid material for the orings to seal against eliminating that whole issue, but bringing up a few more....of course...
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Old 01-03-2010, 12:49 PM #109
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so i'm still waiting for the delrin to show up... stupid holidays are messing all my plans up, lol.

so since I was board and had nothing else to do with this until the delrin arrives, I decided to make a tap for the bolt guide threads. BEHOLD....a 1 1/4-28 tap made from O1 tool steel.


it does have a tiny lead-in fr the threads, but not much. I also made the front section in such a manner that it should align itself axially with the bore.
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Old 01-03-2010, 12:53 PM #110
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Old 01-03-2010, 12:54 PM #111
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indeed it is...I have yet to try it out though.
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Old 01-03-2010, 01:06 PM #112
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Test peice first. While I have done this with grade 8 steel bolts, I would hesitate to do such a large fine thread on a finish piece without testing.
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Old 01-03-2010, 01:52 PM #113
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yeah i fully intend to do so once the delrin comes in.
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Old 01-04-2010, 06:57 PM #114
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did you cut the flutes before or after the threads. i have done something like this before and cut the flutes after and had horrendous results. but i did cut them with an end mill and not a grinding tool like they should be (sometimes you just have to work with what you got)
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Old 01-04-2010, 07:23 PM #115
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did you cut the flutes before or after the threads. i have done something like this before and cut the flutes after and had horrendous results. but i did cut them with an end mill and not a grinding tool like they should be (sometimes you just have to work with what you got)
the chip flutes were cut after the threading. they were also ground...by hand...
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Old 01-04-2010, 08:16 PM #116
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good luck with that then i hope it works better than mine did. i guess worst case you will have to single point the threads in the delrin but thats not so bad you would most likely be able to do it in one pass with threads that fine.
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Old 01-04-2010, 08:21 PM #117
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yeah...I may give in and just do the bolt guide threads in aluminum. it just seems like a better idea all around, but it'll also make me sad that I didn't do it completely metal free.
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Old 01-04-2010, 09:15 PM #118
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Im interested in seeing how those threads come out
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Old 01-04-2010, 10:16 PM #119
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another possibility is if you make the threads a little more coarse (looks like 32 tpi maybe now go to 28 tpi) you could still use delrin without stripping it out but i don't know how thin your piece has to be. another thing you probably already know is its really hard to get most epoxies to really stick to delrin and i don't know of any infusion resins that actually stick to delrin.

another question are you vacuuming your resin before you apply it to your part. i found that when working with polyester resin the best way to get the bubbles out of the final finish is to before you pour it to put it into a vacuum chamber and pull about -5 psi for about 5 min then pour. if you can do something like that before putting resin on your mandrel maybe you could eliminate those bubbles in the finish

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Old 01-04-2010, 10:38 PM #120
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well i can't change the thread pitch (which is 28tpi already) as i want to use the factory bolt guide.

Yeah, i'm well aware that most resins dont' stick to polymers. I have already expressed this as my main concern with using the delrin rings. infusion resin is no different. i'm putting fairly deep grooves in the rings to increase surface area as well as provide a mechanical link to the carbon. I actually made the rings today. I'll have a pic up later probably.

yes, I am degassing the resin as well as debulking the carbon before infusion. I can get a cool pic of the resin being degassed as well. It's pretty cool to see. it does help reduce air pockets, but doesn't eliminate then. air bubbles aren't really the problem when infusing. the problem comes from little depressions where the fibers overlay each other.
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Old 01-04-2010, 11:39 PM #121
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Wow, I somehow missed this thread too. Awesome progress, and really nice body design. My kinda style

Can't wait to see how this goes.

+1 man point for this project.
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Old 01-04-2010, 11:42 PM #122
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this one is for you nerve...
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Old 01-04-2010, 11:44 PM #123
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Wow, I somehow missed this thread too. Awesome progress, and really nice body design. My kinda style

Can't wait to see how this goes.

+1 man point for this project.
thanks. hopefully by tomorrow I should have the next body started. Anyone want my first one? it's still usable, just needs a little TLC on the inside. that sounds dirty.
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Old 01-04-2010, 11:50 PM #124
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Nah, nothing at all dodgy about giving the inside of your body some TLC.

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Old 01-05-2010, 01:01 AM #125
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i kind of want it for ****s and giggles
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Old 01-05-2010, 02:51 AM #126
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I'd take it just to have it, so then when this project is complete I would have the original start.

I can't wait to see more progress and hopefully you can get the oring grooves figures out. I think you could get CF or delrin for work for the bolt guide threads, doesn't hurt to try.
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