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Old 05-23-2014, 09:00 AM #1
Travis1581
 
 
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Travis1581's Evil Ehm Build

I have been holding on to some Evil Ehm Parts for about two months now and am finally able to show some progress. I figured Id start a thread to track progress as well as be an information center for any others who are looking to build one.

A little background about myself:
I recently got back into paintball from a 8 year hiatus. I was searching the internet trying to figure out what marker I wanted. When I was younger, I owned an 04 Viking with an RT valve. This was my prized possession. It shot like a dream. The only thing I didnt like was the weight. That is when I stumbled across the Evil Ehm. I did some research for about a month, reading many threads on various forums. About two months back, I purchased a "semi-complete" kit.



It included everything except a milled body and eye covers. I work as a mechanical engineer and the company I work at has a pretty large fabrication shop attached to it. I have made friends with a couple of the guys and they have gave me a hand with various tasks. One of them will be doing my milling and any additional fabrication I require.

In my day to day work, I create a lot CAD files. However, the parts are not intended to look "sexy." They are structural and somewhat easy to manufacture. With my limited solidworks experience, I have a friend helping me with the CAD files. Before his help, I was only able to create basic block that can be purchased from DC. He has shown me a couple cool tricks and I'm getting a lot better. However, there is still room for improvement. If you guys see anything that looks awkward in a design I post, please let me know.

FAQs

I will be doing my best to keep this section updated. If it gets too big, I may move the FAQs into their respective sections.

What frames will work with the Evil Ehm?
Any and all frames will work on an Evil Ehm. However, there are ones that are more suitable. From what I have seen, it looks like fitting the solenoid into the frame is the difficult part and the reason most frames require a tray. The ones I know will work without a frame are:
  • PMR UL Frame (07-09?)
  • 05 Ego Frame (But its super tight on the back side)
  • Cyborg Frame
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Old 05-23-2014, 09:01 AM #2
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Body

Designs:
Evil Ehm 1


I ended up moving the AKA logo to the front so it could be larger. I also changed the way the eye covers sit. It sat too proud of the body previously. Other than that, no modifications were made from the original body.

Evil Ehm Half Mill
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Old 05-23-2014, 09:03 AM #3
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Frame

The package I purchased came with two Ego frames. There was even a tray built for one of them.



I had originally planned on using this tray and skipping all things to do with the frame. However, the more I stared at it, the more I didnt like it. It was manufactured on a hand mill. And for a hand mill, the craftsman ship is pretty darn good. However, its not up to CNC quality. I'm not certain what I will do here yet. I'm thinking multiple frames. A PMR UL frame and a custom frame that will take ego boards/triggers. More to come
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Old 05-23-2014, 09:04 AM #4
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Eyes

Design
First take:

Updated Cover:

I didnt like how thick the eye covers were. After realizing that I could cut down some metal where the wire is ran, I came up with this.
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Old 05-23-2014, 09:05 AM #5
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As you can see, the frame is no where near complete (It doesnt even have a trigger guard). But the body, Eye Covers & VASA I think are in a good state. I have sent them to the machinist for a quote. The barrel & feedneck are files I found on the internet. They will not be custom fabricated, but they help complete the look.
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Old 05-23-2014, 09:39 AM #6
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Old 05-23-2014, 09:42 AM #7
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Old 05-23-2014, 09:43 AM #8
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Old 05-23-2014, 08:16 PM #9
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Very nice work, I actually like that first drawing you have. Simple, nice straight lines, looks good to me. The ego frames will only work with trays not enough space for no idea to fit. The 05/06 cyborg frame have plenty of space, just need lityle of mmilling on inside to make it work. Good luck, look forward to seen process.
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Old 05-24-2014, 06:38 AM #10
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Im not a huge fan of the borg frame... I have a deal pending to pick up an PMR UL frame. Hopefully this week ill get the dimensions back on the screw/pin locations on the 09 ego. I plan on mocking up a 90 degree frame that will accept 09 ego boards and triggers. Id love to have the option of both a 90 degree and a 45 degree frame
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Old 05-24-2014, 11:51 AM #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Travis1581 View Post
Im not a huge fan of the borg frame... I have a deal pending to pick up an PMR UL frame. Hopefully this week ill get the dimensions back on the screw/pin locations on the 09 ego. I plan on mocking up a 90 degree frame that will accept 09 ego boards and triggers. Id love to have the option of both a 90 degree and a 45 degree frame
That's the same way I was, hoping for both a 45 and 90 degree frame option. I ended up with a PMR UL frame but have not fitted it fully yet.

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Old 05-25-2014, 06:55 AM #12
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Originally Posted by bballryand316 View Post
That's the same way I was, hoping for both a 45 and 90 degree frame option. I ended up with a PMR UL frame but have not fitted it fully yet.
I have always liked the UL frames. They just seem to feel nice in my hand. Ive never shot a 90 degree frame, but it looks a hell of a lot more comfortable than a 45...
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Old 05-25-2014, 08:26 PM #13
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I'd LOVE to see the original rendering but with half mill lines like AKA use to do on vikings and Excals. You'd have to move or remove the AKA logo which is a nice touch that I'd like to see incorperated still.

Maybe even do some of the half mill marks up front as well like this sam rhodes viking



This is extremely interesting...
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Old 05-26-2014, 08:24 AM #14
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I'd LOVE to see the original rendering but with half mill lines like AKA use to do on vikings and Excals. You'd have to move or remove the AKA logo which is a nice touch that I'd like to see incorperated still.

Maybe even do some of the half mill marks up front as well like this sam rhodes viking


This is extremely interesting...
I like that idea! Ill add some AKA half mill esque on the back and move the AKA logo to the front. I still need to do something about the feedneck sitting so high. Hopefully I can get both things updated this week. Then I can schedule a meeting with my machinist and see exactly what he is going to charge.
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Old 05-30-2014, 05:35 PM #15
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I'm this close to buying an extrusion and trying to convince you to take my money.
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Old 06-02-2014, 08:00 AM #16
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I'm this close to buying an extrusion and trying to convince you to take my money.
I added a half mill pattern to the rear of the marker. I was not able to get it to transition nicely around the corners so it only appears on the outermost faces. I kind of like it.

More updates to come later this week!
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Old 06-02-2014, 09:29 AM #17
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Travis,

With the way the current body design stands, I'd leave those mill lines out. Unless the square sides round off more and the lines flow around the back like they did from AKA, I don't think it does it any justice.

Also, if you use the PMR UL frame, you need to mill it internally in both the top and by the button pad. I've also heard the sheer volume of wires gets kind of tricky.

If you stick with the PMR frame, you should check out the inception forums and see if you can snag one of those DNA boards for testing.

If not, I'd either track down a Bluefork frame or just make your own. I had located about 3-4 Bluefork frames on ICD owners forums, but only needed one.
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Old 06-02-2014, 03:48 PM #18
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I like both designs. I wish it could wrap in an ideal world, but would still pay money for either.

Also on the half mill design, I think the AKA logo would look better a little bigger since theres now a bigger "canvas" at that spot. Just a suggestion though.

Keep us updated

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Old 06-02-2014, 04:36 PM #19
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Travis,

With the way the current body design stands, I'd leave those mill lines out. Unless the square sides round off more and the lines flow around the back like they did from AKA, I don't think it does it any justice.

Also, if you use the PMR UL frame, you need to mill it internally in both the top and by the button pad. I've also heard the sheer volume of wires gets kind of tricky.

If you stick with the PMR frame, you should check out the inception forums and see if you can snag one of those DNA boards for testing.

If not, I'd either track down a Bluefork frame or just make your own. I had located about 3-4 Bluefork frames on ICD owners forums, but only needed one.
While I really do like the design of the Bluefork frame, Im not going to wait for one to be available. If I happen to see one, I may just pick it up and have 3 frames to choose from. Im not too concerned about milling the PMR frame, thats something I could tackle with a dremel since its all internal and doesnt need to look great. However, Ill talk my machinist and see what he thinks before I start hacking at it. The wires shouldn't be too much of an issue, there is actually a lot of meat left in the UL frame to run some channels for wires.

I see what you mean about the squared off edges needing to be rounded. Ill make that update.

Good call on the small boards. I was looking at a scenario dreams board that is about the same size. Ill see who I can bug over there. it would be nice to use the same board in every frame so I can swap frames easily.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Got_Paint View Post
I like both designs. I wish it could wrap in an ideal world, but would still pay money for either.

Also on the half mill design, I think the AKA logo would look better a little bigger since theres now a bigger "canvas" at that spot. Just a suggestion though.


Keep us updated
Im working on the wrap around half mill. It will be done by Thursday.

I agree, the AKA design needs to be centered and enlarged!
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Old 06-02-2014, 04:44 PM #20
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That's the same way I was, hoping for both a 45 and 90 degree frame option. I ended up with a PMR UL frame but have not fitted it fully yet.

Keep me posted on how this goes. I just got my UL frame in yesterday. Hopefully I can get it fitted sometime next week.
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Old 06-04-2014, 08:41 PM #21
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Pmr UL frame. Notice there is a thin slit in the back to fit the solenoid.



Bluefork frame. Fits everything and a switch if you use a cyborg board.
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