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Old 12-08-2009, 10:12 PM #1
MCImes's Avatar
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Twin Cities, MN
UL --> Eblade frame mod. My first try - Lots-O-Pics

Well i finally got around to trying to mill my first ul from to fit a eblade board. Im at the end of my first year of machinist school and have some free time because i finished early, so this is what i did Thursday. I also sanded it and scraped the grips this weekend.

My goal is to modify the frame to fit a eblade board without taking off the opti switch and putting on a micro switch. The problem i ran into is the optical sensor rig is taller than an ul frame is thick at the front. So as you can see i scraped the grips out to allow what i think should be tight, but adequate clearance.

I still have a fair amount of work to do. Im going to drill holes for the menu buttons and mill a slot out of the back where the current on/off button is. Then ill get a small piece of plexi and fit it to the opening, then black it out except a space for the screen.

Also, i need to fashion a small fang like all eblade triggers have and super glue it in place. I might mill a tiny slot into the back of the trigger and make a matching male female slot to increase surface area. I intend to cut off everything behind the ball bearing on the trigger to make more room too.

sorry, that was kinda rambling. Ill clean it up later. I know i have a long ways to go but its been fun so far. gimme some feedback/ideas


day 2 of work:

I was pretty sketchy about drilling the top menu hole, but i didnt really have a choice they way i saw it. I like the idea of a plate on the back side. It would have to be really thin though since ill be doing more scraping of the grips already.

I now need to fashion buttons and make a plexi screen. The board pictured is a junker so im almost to the point that ill pull out the e2 and make any final mods (cut and resolder cap, sand board to fit slightly)

on that last note, will it hurt anything to sand the corners of the pcb board assuming i dont touch any pathways or components?
with board in

with board out

I milled a tiny slot for the trigger fang with a very small end mill

and had to make a small indent so the buttons were'nt held down. also a better view of the trigger fang

Last edited by MCImes : 12-08-2009 at 10:43 PM.
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Old 12-08-2009, 11:06 PM #2
Join Date: Nov 2004
 has been a member for 10 years
Very thin in parts, i wonder how that will hold with more aggressive play. Either way its some nice work. How shallow were your cuts and how was the frame clamped? I had a frame bend on me trying to mill it because the end mill caught and yanked it out of the clamps...
My feedback.
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Old 12-08-2009, 11:13 PM #3
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Twin Cities, MN
im not playing any xball with this gun. its mostly for cosmetics while still being functional so i dont forsee much or any diving for bunkers with this gun. im worried about breaking it a little. if that happens ill bring it back to school and weld a bunch of aluminum to it and custom re-mill it (god forbid).

while milling it did flex in the vise and i just clamped it as much as i thought was safe. it did move a couple times and i just slowed my feed and increased rpm. i also reclamped a lot to reduce overhang as much as possible
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Old 12-12-2009, 02:36 PM #4
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Twin Cities, MN
Day 3 of work:
I took out the junk board and finally fitted the real e2 board into the frame. I sanded the junk board in areas that i couldn't on the e2 so i had to mill out a little more. I also milled the window larger. As you can see in the pics i got it together and will be usable as soon as i figure out the trigger situation. I also have to scrape the grips a little more to get them to sit flush with the battery in.

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Old 12-12-2009, 04:35 PM #5
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love it , what trigger will you use?
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Old 12-12-2009, 05:52 PM #6
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the ul trigger, with a fang im working on for the break beam sensor
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Old 12-13-2009, 05:37 AM #7
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Mmm... Keep us updated!

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Old 12-14-2009, 12:49 AM #8
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nice job and pics as well
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