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Old 01-07-2010, 07:03 PM #127
new ion?
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Originally Posted by Spitlebug View Post
Best way to solder to components is to pre-tin the component. So use a clip to hold the component and then use your soldering iron to apply a decent coat of solder to the leads. Then when you want to attach the wire, you need only put the wire to the solder and heat.
did a combo of that and normal stuff, plus i got an electric gun instead of a crappy *** butane one. also decided to shorten wires so now i have to do them ALL again.

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at one point i was going to do this myself, One comment i have for you is be careful where you decide to place the transfer hole from the lower tube to the top as its much further back than that of a standard cocker. Oh and one of the original issues with the funtioning aedes thats still around was shot to shot consistency, noone could get it to stay consistent. the mq valve for some reason just varried to much.
good luck
im sure the mq2 is better, and thanks for the input and warnings.

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Originally Posted by cs900 View Post
yup, that's what I've found works best. if it's really stubborn you may want to go get some solder flux. I've never had a joint I couldn't solder with that stuff regaurdless of surface prep or size.
other people helping hold the wires helps too
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Old 01-08-2010, 01:08 AM #128
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Re subscribing due to blackberry storm being stupid.
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Old 01-11-2010, 10:19 PM #129
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Question: would it be possible/a good idea to use a spring loaded detent to hold the bolt assembly in place or would it not work?
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Old 01-11-2010, 11:00 PM #130
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Question: would it be possible/a good idea to use a spring loaded detent to hold the bolt assembly in place or would it not work?
That seems like a bad idea to me. The bolt will be pushed back with the same force as a paintball get's pushed forward.
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Last edited by FMprime : 01-11-2010 at 11:50 PM. Reason: ed
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Old 01-11-2010, 11:07 PM #131
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that was my thought as well.
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Old 01-12-2010, 07:14 AM #132
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Also, very strong detents can prevent the bolt from moving.

And you are doing great work. I am also working on building a MQ2 marker.
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Old 01-12-2010, 11:30 AM #133
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I Will be purchasing Kila's... the idea tho was to place a detent specifically for holding in the bolt engine.
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Old 01-12-2010, 02:05 PM #134
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Awesome looking project, keep up the good work!

However, I can't believe you say that you don't like soldering...inhaling the fumes from the flux is pretty much the best thing in the world and will never harm your body.

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Old 01-12-2010, 03:52 PM #135
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lol good thing I didnt use flux then... I was over that gun practically 2 days (hour long intervals but still) straight
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Old 01-13-2010, 07:59 AM #136
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I did see the first page and all. but what are you using for the guide and holder for the bolt? Is your bolt almost done?

I ask because I would love to have a non-pneumatic bolt system like the one on the aedes.
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Old 01-13-2010, 11:11 AM #137
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Im not following your question. Im using delrin, just like the rest of the bolt system. if that isnt what your looking for, just ask.
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Old 01-13-2010, 01:37 PM #138
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He has the bolt assembly shown in the first post. All he needs now is to find some way to affix it to the body.
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Old 01-13-2010, 04:36 PM #139
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No, I understand your using delrin and i know your having a problem mounting it.

are you replicating what the aedes bolt is? is what i mean.
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Old 01-13-2010, 09:26 PM #140
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yes thats exactly what I'm doing.

anyways - mini update

I got the solenoid wired to the board today. Had to make my own little q/d's... it was interesting. Used .035 music wire, sanded it down a bit and stuck it in some brass (i think) tubing. Without testing, I cant say how well it works, but it seems to hold together not too shabby.

Practically the only thing holding back this project is the body. I feel bad for saying it that way in case Andy's reading this as I know he's busy... I think, without buying any parts, its the only thing I need.

edit 2 - anyone know if any orings have an ID of... crap now I cant remember. Whatever the 12 is in 12-24 thread?
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Last edited by new ion? : 01-14-2010 at 01:07 AM.
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Old 01-14-2010, 05:07 PM #141
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Can you post a how to on how you made your bolt? please?
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Old 01-14-2010, 05:11 PM #142
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yedit 2 - anyone know if any orings have an ID of... crap now I cant remember. Whatever the 12 is in 12-24 thread?
.2160 nominal .2280 would reach the bottom of the threads (ie if you used that size drill bit in the hole you'd have 0 thread left).
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Old 01-14-2010, 05:18 PM #143
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yes thats exactly what I'm doing.

anyways - mini update

I got the solenoid wired to the board today. Had to make my own little q/d's... it was interesting. Used .035 music wire, sanded it down a bit and stuck it in some brass (i think) tubing. Without testing, I cant say how well it works, but it seems to hold together not too shabby.

Practically the only thing holding back this project is the body. I feel bad for saying it that way in case Andy's reading this as I know he's busy... I think, without buying any parts, its the only thing I need.

edit 2 - anyone know if any orings have an ID of... crap now I cant remember. Whatever the 12 is in 12-24 thread?
A 009 o-ring has an ID of just slightly smaller than the major diameter of a 12-24 bolt, a 010 has an ID slightly larger than the major diameter. A 009 o-ring would stretch slightly, a 010 would be slightly loose.

Just in terms of availability, 12-24 is not an overly common size anymore in case you need to find something at a hardware store in a pinch.


Sorry Leafy, .216" is the major diameter, not the minor.

Also, try these for cheap quick connects.
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Old 01-14-2010, 05:40 PM #144
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Can you post a how to on how you made your bolt? please?
Sorry, no. For three reasons: 1) it wasnt that hard to do. If you do a bit of research you can find out how... 2) I kinda want this to be semi special and 3)I dont wanna let the world know of my crappy ways of doing things.


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A 009 o-ring has an ID of just slightly smaller than the major diameter of a 12-24 bolt, a 010 has an ID slightly larger than the major diameter. A 009 o-ring would stretch slightly, a 010 would be slightly loose.

Just in terms of availability, 12-24 is not an overly common size anymore in case you need to find something at a hardware store in a pinch.


Sorry Leafy, .216" is the major diameter, not the minor.

Also, try these for cheap quick connects.
I just went and made the shaft, then kinda found a thread that would fit. a 12-24 die was just big enough, in actuality it was too small, but I made it work. I think I'll go with a number 10 then. It's being used as a bumper.

Thank you.
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Old 01-14-2010, 08:47 PM #145
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10-32 will work with a 3/16" rod, the major diameter is very close (few thousandths) to that depending on what thread class you use. Sometimes it is tough to get a die to start on the rod with that combination, but a little bevel from a bench grinder around the end of the rod goes a long way in getting it started.
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Old 01-15-2010, 04:04 AM #146
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Old 01-15-2010, 11:29 AM #147
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