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Old 12-07-2009, 11:17 PM #64
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Originally Posted by Leafy View Post
and if you did this you wouldnt run into smart parts patent since you're not selling a paintball marker you're selling a kit.
No, you run into Deadlywinds one since I believe I heard the Aedes was patented...
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Old 12-07-2009, 11:42 PM #65
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No, you run into Deadlywinds one since I believe I heard the Aedes was patented...
read the thread we discussed this, it was applied for but not patented

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Originally Posted by y0da900 View Post
http://www.google.com/patents/about?...Valve+Assembly

Application for it, but not granted yet as far as I know. If you know enough about proper general design such as seals, clearances, and tolerances, you would probably be able to make one pretty handily from Ydnas animation just as well as the patent. At least the basic stacked tube version that everyone knows about, he has an inline variant in the application too.
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Old 12-07-2009, 11:53 PM #66
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and if you did this you wouldnt run into smart parts patent since you're not selling a paintball marker you're selling a kit.
IF I were to do this, It'd prolly be a while after I made mine, for a couple reasons.

One being that I wouldnt wanna sell a faulty product, and

Two being that I'd wanna keep it my personal thing for a while

edit - and like I said, I'm pretty sure KEE owns it (the patent... if it went thru. I know colin did some deal with them, one of the things we discussed in our phone call)
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Old 12-07-2009, 11:55 PM #67
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yeah, at least the design has been out of the bag for a while so that no one can patented it out from under you, you just cant patented it either, posting the actual cad files for this thought would be legit.
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Old 12-07-2009, 11:57 PM #68
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yeah, at least the design has been out of the bag for a while so that no one can patented it out from under you, you just cant patented it either, posting the actual cad files for this thought would be legit.
That will have to wait. plus because I don't really know what I'm doing, I'm kinda just going "this looks like it'll work"
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Old 12-08-2009, 07:00 PM #69
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I just realized one of the most frustrating things. When your shop has practically every drill bit possible, except for the one I need. a #11. ugh.
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Old 12-08-2009, 07:21 PM #70
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Well while you're there, grab me a 15/16 20 and a 7/8 20 plug and bottoming taps.
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Old 12-08-2009, 10:15 PM #71
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Well while you're there, grab me a 15/16 20 and a 7/8 20 plug and bottoming taps.
If your looking for 'cocker barrel threading taps, I have them. I'll sell em to you too. It doesnt look like I'll be using them so...

PM me if its what your lookin for.
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Old 12-09-2009, 07:23 PM #72
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I've got a guy coming up to McNeill this week. Not sure where he is staying, but I may be able to have him leave the AR-1 at the hotel he will be staying for you to pickup. Send me a PM and I will see about arranging that for you.
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Old 12-10-2009, 01:07 AM #73
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Well, progress for today included cutting out the stationary piece (I went with a number 10 drill bit instead, shoulda done that in the first place), making a new spring, threading the shaft down longer (And in the process putting some lovely vice marks on it... forgot the soft jaws ), cutting it shorter (while still leaving enough for a possible nut to reinforce my spring retainer) and assembling it. Unfortunately, I bored the inside out to the point that I now don't really have a way of attaching it to the marker. To add to the bad news: I bored the inside wayy too deep; I didnt really follow my plans. Now the bolt has a LOT of excess travel. Easily fixable sure, but If I had not confused myself with the math in the first place (lol) it woulda saved me a headache.

possible methods of attaching to receiver: using a sling system (kinda like a box extender in a pickup truck), using a screw sticking up from the bottom tube...

but these all just stop it from moving backwards.

OR I could utilize the soon to be excess part of the stationary tube, running a vertical bolt pin into the bottom tube, sticking in a certain amount, depending how far back it is. IF it's far enough back to go into the IVG, I could run the pin into that, locking everything into place.

Any thoughts?

edit - pics tomorrow.
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Old 12-10-2009, 11:24 AM #74
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Threaded...
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Old 12-10-2009, 11:26 AM #75
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Probably will be, but I can't really do anything about this until I get my body back.
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Old 12-10-2009, 04:05 PM #76
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YDNA is a body snatcher.

I'm trying to use my phone as a tethered modem but I can't find my CD. Our neighbors with wireless moved out. As soon as I can do that I'll send you my CAD.
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Old 12-10-2009, 10:30 PM #77
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Well, I had a brainwave as to what 'bug meant when he said threaded. I went and pressfit (and locktighted cuz i'm like that ) a piece onto the bolt system so I could thread that Into the body. Im doing probably a 3/4 16 thread, altho im not sure that will be big enough.

I did a new thing for me today, threading on the lathe. I started a front plug for the bottom tube, 3/4 10 thread. It was interesting and unfortunately our button die messed the thread points up... oh well. It still works and its not like im going to be going up to people and be like, "check out the front plug!!"

anomoly - no rush man, dont have the body yet so I'ts not like I have a deadline.

edit - question for you gents. I think I know the answer already but I figure this is better...

The bolt 'engine' has a diameter of roughly .690". I have pressfit (and locktighted, but I doubt it'll matter) a piece with a dia of 1". say I wanted to thread this part for 3/4-16 threads, would there be enough material left to hold, or would the threaded piece just fall apart?
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Last edited by new ion? : 12-11-2009 at 12:52 AM.
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Old 12-11-2009, 05:32 PM #78
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If you were to do it with a single uniform piece you might be able to squeak by with a shallow thread, but not with the piece locktited together and pressfit. The minor diameter of the 3/4"-16 thread is .6417, you need a thread with a minor diameter larger than .690, and by enough that it won't get destroyed (i.e. not .692).
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Old 12-11-2009, 07:36 PM #79
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If you were to do it with a single uniform piece you might be able to squeak by with a shallow thread, but not with the piece locktited together and pressfit. The minor diameter of the 3/4"-16 thread is .6417, you need a thread with a minor diameter larger than .690, and by enough that it won't get destroyed (i.e. not .692).
Yea, I just figured instead of that, I'd do the pin thing again. Now that I have more material to play with. Just counterboring the tube is gonna be fun.
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Old 12-12-2009, 09:27 AM #80
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this is cool, I was going to do the exact same thing in 2007.

I have all the parts. (frame, mq2, board, feedneck, eye covers, asa/regulator, LPC chamber.) set aside.

My merlin extrusion is milled for cocker threading, dual 04 viking detents, breakbeam ace, and aka feedneck threading.... I just never got around to building the bolt system.

I'd like to see the outcome of your project.

I may get mine done next year........
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Old 12-12-2009, 10:54 PM #81
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I got my detents in an old SP non-vision thread as it was easiest for YDNA
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Old 12-13-2009, 12:15 AM #82
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This is my first post but this is something I am very interested in for I plan on making my own aedes next semester in university. I have a full CAD model all sketched out with mostly all the proper dimensions, all I have to do now is talk to the machinists and get it started. I've also based my design sort of on the evi-m style layout but with the valve moved back etc. I'm really eager to see where your project goes.
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Old 12-14-2009, 12:47 AM #83
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This is my first post but this is something I am very interested in for I plan on making my own aedes next semester in university. I have a full CAD model all sketched out with mostly all the proper dimensions, all I have to do now is talk to the machinists and get it started. I've also based my design sort of on the evi-m style layout but with the valve moved back etc. I'm really eager to see where your project goes.
Wanna expand on that? This could mean many things and I dont wany anyone misguided on what to do.
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Old 12-14-2009, 05:00 AM #84
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Wanna expand on that? This could mean many things and I dont wany anyone misguided on what to do.
The Evil-M was a stacked tube Viking that wsa to be produced by AKA and sold under the PMI(?) brand. It was shelved because of Smart Parts.
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